| Author | Message | ||
     Gotj |
This may be old news and, if so, let me know but I think I discovered why I want to replace the side case cables that broke with original equipment. I was fatigued after MBV when I got home, so I unlocked the left side case but neglected to support the lid. It dropped and snapped the two support cables but did no other damage. I know I have seen a thread or two about how to use some other sort of cable to "do the same thing." I put in those quotes because the "some other sort of cable" WON'T do the same thing. It WON'T break; it WILL pull out the cable mounting point on either the box or lid. That too can be "fixed" but things would be starting to get out of hand for me at that point. The problem I have run into is that there is a part number for the cable in the 2008 X/XT parts book but not in the H-D system. The dealer called Buell and they can't find that part number either. I don't have the number but can anyone help find those cables? | ||
| Ulywife |
If a Buell dealer can't get them for you, check with http://www.eurotechmotorsports.com/. They have often had HB parts that the dealers don't carry. Here is a thread that addressed this same issue with a couple of options. It also leads you to a secondary discussion around the same timeframe. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/305494.html Good luck! | ||
| Gotj |
Thanks Ulywife. The straps are still listed and my local Eurotech dealer is also my Ducati (and BMW, Triumph, KTM, Vespa, Piaggio) dealer. I'll see if I can find them there. Hope the straps aren't like the racks and keys which are proprietary to Buell. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Gotj I wouldn't think the straps would be unique to the Buell version. In any case they're tacky. Just looked at mine, to replace just the straps wouldn't you have to remove the rivets that hold the collars to the cases/lids? Stock replacement looks like more work to me than improvising an easily repairable replacement. Just me, but I think I'll dump the originals. Hit the hdwe store. Pick up stainless stuff: hanging wire, bolts, washers, some spacer material, whatever. The stock setup relies on a collar riveted through one layer of a double-layer plastic wall. I would run a washered attachment point a little more into the sidecase body and higher up, rubber grommeted with a spacer sleeve to absorb some shock. Stainless picture hanging wire for the retention strapping, with either looped and crimped ends or maybe even soldered-on electrical ring terminals. Bulletproof by the time I'm done and better than the goofy originals.  | ||
| Crusty |
The problem I have run into is that there is a part number for the cable in the 2008 X/XT parts book but not in the H-D system. The dealer called Buell and they can't find that part number either. I don't have the number but can anyone help find those cables? I ran into the same problem when I had the bag inserts painted, and needed new round Buell emblems. The Parts Manager had to work with his S.P.O.C. person to get the system sorted out. All in all, instead of four days, it took a week and a half. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I'll have to measure when I get my S2 back...but it has gen-yoo-wine 1/16" aircraft cables holding its lids on when you open the bags. Depending on length, they may work as a service replacement for a Uly. They are held on with a black allen head screw through the saddlebag at one end and the lid at the other (they have heads slightly larger than the standard bodywork bolt); the cable attaches to a "nut" with a groove in it to hold the cable eye. They're also listed seperately in parts lookup | ||
| Panhead_dan |
I bought some 1/16 cable and ferrals today on the way home. I'm worried that it may be too strong. keep this thread going please. | ||
| Gotj |
XBimmer, The fastener holding the cable end is threaded, not a rivet, so that should be no big deal. I don't consider the OEM cables goofy at all. They are curved so that always stay inside the case when closing it and break if you drop a loaded lid. Panhead, I just ordered two set of cables through my local Eurotech dealer for $5 a pair. If I were to try a fix with a cable, I would clamp the ferrules just enough so that they would hold the static weight of the lid contents but would slip if the lid were dropped. That's how the OEM cables functioned for me. I don't think a rubber grommet would absorb enough shock to keep from pulling out the fasteners. | ||
| Bking |
I broke a plastic cable early on and replaced with steel cable. Has worked out ok for 4k miles. ---Bob  (Message edited by bking on April 11, 2008) | ||
| Panhead_dan |
Anybody have a link for Eurotech? | ||
| Nimnal |
I just googled it. www.eurotechmotorsports.com | ||
| Panhead_dan |
Seems they are wholesale only. (frown) I used the dealer locator and emailed an enquiry to a local (200 miles away) dealer. In the mean time, my left side bag has none at all and got scratched when it fell against a curb when I opened it with my hands full. It was a brand new bag a couple of weeks ago. I made temps out of strips of leather so it won't happen till a proper fix is complete. I noticed a couple of things while doing this; the studs on mine are not threaded, they are a type of rivet. Also, the remains of the plastic ends are difficult to remove from the stud-rivet thingies. I cut my thumb pretty good. Ever jab a very sharp knife under your left thumbnail to the bone? (I think I pissed myself) I will not use the cable I bought untill I'm sure I can't get satisfactory replacements. Please keep this thread going. Everyone who has these bags either needs this or will need it. | ||
| Scooter808484 |
I used some 18 G machine tool wire and a couple of ty-raps. It will still pull out if you drop the loaded lid, but hasn't yet. | ||
| Gotj |
Scooter, Thanks, I like that idea. If I understand it, you used the wire ties instead of ferrules, pulled them VERY tight so they would hold a static load but release if the top were dropped. Is that right? ANy pictures? | ||
| Scooter808484 |
That's the idea. I don't have any pictures currently, I'll see what I can do. I actually had to use to ty-raps per joint to hold. Not too scientific, but so far so good. | ||
| Xbimmer |
I'm not quite getting why it may be preferable for a strap to allow a lid to drop under any circumstance?  Keeping with Erik's Mass Centralization concept  , I always load my cases with the heaviest items inward and forward. Only fluff goes into the lids and top case. Always packed that way even before my Buell, keep the weight centralized. Maybe that's why I don't have problems with my stock retainers though yes I have dropped the lids occasionally. In any case if/when I break a strap I'll drill out the rivets and do it better. | ||
| Gotj |
XBimmer wrote: "I'm not quite getting why it may be preferable for a strap to allow a lid to drop under any circumstance?" Well let me try to explain it this way. I am thinking of the straps as "fuses" so when the lid is dropped with weight above a certain load, they break before pulling out the fasteners from either the case or the lid (or "frying the wiring" in the fuse analogy). By jumping the "fuse" with a stronger wire strap, you risk pulling the fasteners out if you drop the lid with more than the design weight. XBimmer, I'm glad you have not broken your straps yet and neither had I until the incident reported above. If you do, I'm sure YOU will "do it better". Those darn German engineers really don't know much about side case straps, do they? BTW, I too an a fan of mass centralization. Just ask my riding buddies where I carry most of my weight!  | ||
| Panhead_dan |
The temp leather straps I put on one of my bags seems to be working out good other than in the looks dept. I'm starting to think that leather may be the answer. Of course I'll have to make some more that look nice but they work well, can be "trained" to fold in the right way, they have give to them and they will fail rather than damage the mounting point. Spares is easy too! |
