| Author | Message | ||
     Ulyganfreedom |
I'm sure man of you have done this... I just have mine temporarily in a semi-ghetto-way... Did ya'll thread it through the existing heat-shielded wire thingy or something else? Did you use a new heat-shield thingy? If so what did you use? I have 4 wires I need to get up there in the most inconspicuous way possible. I'll post pics soon of all the shizzle I've been buzy with. Word to ya mudda! Tom | ||
| Treadmarks |
I ran 3 high temp flexible #12 wires from a new fusebox under the seat, to the cowl by using some woven fabric high heat shield and attaching it to the existing harness. The fabric heat shield helps to prevent chaffing of the plug wires if they make contact. | ||
| Honu |
Treadmarks, I am also interested in doing this also, do you have any pics of your new fuse box install, or location, and where did you get the new fuse box??? | ||
| Nipsey |
Here is a pic of how I mounted a Centech Fuse panel - Treadmarks (I think)also has pics here somewhere. I ran the wire through antoher sleeve alongside the factory harness (2nd pic). Centech is connected via relay so that it is only on when key is on (orange wire goes to aux). You can get the Centech here (I also got the relay harness) http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/product.asp?I tem=CEN   | ||
| Ulyganfreedom |
I was just on the Eastern Beaver site and they have the Centech AP-2 which allows you to have 2 "always on" electronics (GPS, etc..) you ave your choice of length of wires to install the fuse box wherever you want to. http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/A P-2/ap-2.html it looks like a very simple solution. I'm wondering if I could mount it in the front by the headlight. has anyone done this or see a potential problem with doing it that way?? I have the under seat bag, which is my tool bag, and my Autocom is back in the far tail section by the brae light...so I would like to find another place to mount it | ||
| Etennuly |
I haven't done this set up, but you always want the fuses as close to the battery as possible. You could put it up front running a heavier main wire with an inline fuse at the battery. It seems like it would be better under the seat. | ||
| Treadmarks |
I have the eastern beaver harness with the always on centech fuse panel. Mine is mounted next to the seat latch, so my buell bag will still fit. | ||
| Nipsey |
I thought you had one Tread - I looked at putting it there but since I use a Kreiga tool roll instead of the underseat, went with closer to the battery (and easy access/install) | ||
| Dio |
I ran a fused 2 conductor 12 ga. cable to the front just using zip ties to secure it to the top of the harness guide that runs along the left side of the frame. This stuff has a very thick outer cover and is flat, similar to house wiring. I put a 20 amp fuse at the battery on the positive, and replaced the left upper ignition switch mounting allen screw with a bolt that has a threaded stud on top, which is now a main ground stud as I attached the negative wire from the battery here. There is plenty of room under the flyscreen to mount relays, fuse blocks or whatever, and having 2 large guage wires direct from the battery allows unlimited possibilities. I tapped off the unused running light wire in the headlight wiring to operate relays that will only be energized when the key is turned on. You could install auto-reset breakers in place of fuses if you want. Most of the heavy duty automotive 5 pin relays are rated for 30 amps, which will handle anything on a motorcycle. | ||
| Jackbequick |
When I added some wiring to my FXD to allow a GPS, phone charger, XM radio, etc., to all draw power from a power point in a tank bag, I used some marine grade wire I got at West Marine. I ran a 14/2 pairto the tank bag and then set up multiple connectors for the gadgets from that. That was tinned copper, Teflon sheathed wires sheathed in a heavy but nicely flexible outer sheath. It sort of looks like ROMEX type house wiring. I fastened that to various tube frame components and existing harnesses with cable ties to get it to where it was needed. I was using igition switched 30A relay much in the same manner you describe. I'm unlikely to ever have more than 10-15 Amps on it with everything at full draw and the ampacity of the 14 GA. is more than enough. I fused the 14 GA feeder to the 30A relay with a 20A ATM near where it was connected (direct to battery) and the gadgets are all self fused again after they are connected in the tank bag. So I have plenty of stuff going for me as far as keeping anything from letting the smoke leak out of the wires. :>) West Marine had a nice selection of good marine grade wire in a choice of sizes, and with 2, 3 or 4 conductors in a sheath. And you can buy it by the foot so the economics work out good too. The approximate ampacities of the candidate wiring I looked at would be about as follows: 12 GA. - 41A 14 GA. - 32A 16 GA. - 22A 18 GA. - 16A Jack | ||
| Honu |
This is why I love the BWB, Thanks for all the info Guys!!!  |
