| Author | Message | ||
     Johnboy777 |
Getting ready for my 500mi. DIY service. Installing Magnecor 2557 8.5 plug wires, Iridium DCPR9EiX (2316) plugs along with an oil change. Having never done this, which plug pliers might work best - i'd like to have them on hand? Tanks fo da hep. Snap-On 45° offset jaws. 9 1/2" long.  Snap-On Straight jaw version. 9 3/4" long  . | ||
| Treadmarks |
I bought a pair of adjustable boot pliers, and still had a rough time using them. With the air box base off, just pull the old ones off with your hands. After you change plugs, make sure to use that dilectric grease and make sure you get a positive snap when they lock into place. It will help keep the water out, and make them easier to remove next time. I actually took off my coil to clean out the sockets where the old wires were arching and it made it much easier to reach everything else. Check your throttle cables (may want to lube them with light oil of your choice) and make sure your idle adjust cable is not rubbing the motor mount. | ||
| Johnboy777 |
Thanks Treadmarks, Got the anti-seize paste for the plug threads, 3/8 rubber fuel line hose, dielectric grease and plan to re-route the idle adjust to under the seat - saw it in a thread here and liked it. With regard to the air box base, IIRC, i need to get the bike to op temp. - then use a soldering iron to heat up the T27's individually for removal. john | ||
| Teeps |
Wires are cheap! Just rip the old wires off and install new ones. Then there's no worry. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
I found these at Checker auto. "Hose and cable pliers". $12. I used a hair dryer to heat a few pieces of 1/8" vinyl tubing that I slipped over the jaws. http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/pbi /640863.jpg Mark in Arizona | ||
| Alchemy |
I got a set of "Champion" cheap but large needle nose pliers from Sears for $15 and that made removal of the old ignition cables easier but it did tear them up a bit. I was replacing them with the magnacor set so I was not concerned. It is a pain in the butt to get the cables off IMO. Also the originals were significantly worn by abrasion. New cables and plugs improved ignition in my opinion but I worry about abrasion on the Magnacors as well. I'll know if the magnacors hold up better next time I check. Idle adjustment cable was wearing a lot as well. I covered it with some additional tubing but I doubt it really helped. | ||
| Jackbequick |
I've never used anything but my fingers to get spark plug boots on and off. When I was dirt biking I got in the habit putting a light smear of dielectic compount on the inside of the boot before the wire was slid into the boot, and again on the plug side before the boot was popped over the plug. This all goes a long ways towards the engine not missing or stopping in wet conditions and moisture and corrosion building up inside the boot. I grasp the boot down near the lower part and give a 1/4 turn or so as I lift and they pop right off. Sometimes they even make a little popping noise indicating they had a good seal. Jack | ||
| Mark_weiss |
My hands are apparently too big to get the rear boot. I can touch the boot with my fingertips, but can in no way grasp the boot to remove it. Front is not an issue. Mark in Arizona | ||
| Jackbequick |
Ah, now I understand. I guess it is an Uly and XB issue. Jack (Message edited by jackbequick on February 21, 2008) | ||
| Gamdh |
2 nights ago I fought for a while with the rear boot.. finally gave up. Went down to the local Advanced Auto and found these. http://www.amprotools.net/Product_List.aspx?produc tid=606&partnerid=29&categoryid=5&mode=show It was the only ones they had less than $10 and they actually worked. When I bought them I thought they were kind of cheap looking, but they do fit into the available space and I was able to pretty easily remove the rear boot. |
