| Author | Message | ||
     Maximum |
So here was my GPS/XM radio setup last year.  Then I decided to change out the handlebars for some ProTapers (I blame Ft_bstrd) where I lost the crossbar to use for mounting accessories.  So I have been trying to figure out where to mount the XM antenna. I didn't want to clutter things up in the handle bar area, so I first tried to mount with Velcro on the gas cap, but this had some reception issues that I didn't like. Then I thought about drill a 3" hole in the air box cover and mounting it there, but I could not bring myself to drilling a hole in a $200 piece of plastic! Then I remembered that I am currently running with the race ECM...and I wondered if I could mount the antenna in the servo control space without drilling a hole in the air box cover, and still get reception.  So I built a little aluminum bracket and mounted the XM antenna, then ran the USB extension wire back up the inside left frame up to Zumo. Connected everything, put the airbox cover back on, and rolled it outside for the big test (OK, I actually tested it before taking the time to build the bracket, but it sounds better the other way).  Success! I had a full three bars (which is max) with the airbox cover installed. I went out for some test rides, and it did fine the entire time. When I was riding North bound I did lose one bar most of the time (because of my body blocking the southern sky), but never lost audio!  For now I am using RAM Mount accessories to mount the GPS into the 1/4" x 20 threaded holes in Precision Engineering "Slim Line" 1-1/8" bar adapters. It seems to work very well, and is a much cleaner look than my previous setup. I would have never thought that the XM antenna would work behind a solid surface...but it does!  | ||
| Birdmanrh |
Great Job!! | ||
| Birdmanrh |
Oh, which Pro Taper bar is that? | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Nice! I'm glad I could help.  You know you want some HIDs. I have my super yellow kit on now. | ||
| Court |
That's an awesome set up | ||
| Galloper |
Very nicely done. XM radio in Europe... forget it. As usual we're lagging behind. | ||
| Maximum |
Ft_Bstrd: You know I know want HID, but I am waiting for someone to make a modified Buell Headlight assembly with the ballasts inside. Plug and play Baby! Birdmanrh: It is the ProTaper Raptor. It ends up being about .5" wider (after cutting off .5" per side), .5" lower (even with the added height of the 1-1/8" bar adapters), and the main thing I wanted...it has about 1" less sweep! It is a little more aggressive riding position, but not so much to effect comfort on longer trips.   The Precision Engineering Slim Line bar adapters are awesome, especially now that they are making them in black, and with RAM mount compatible threaded holes in them (optional of course). (Message edited by maximum on February 13, 2008) (Message edited by maximum on February 13, 2008) | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Yep, Precision Engineering makes some great stuff! You'll be waiting for a very long time. No one is going to make what you are looking for for quite a while. You'll have a different bike by the time that product hits the market. I mounted my ballasts inside my airbox. | ||
| Nipsey |
Do either of you (FB - Max) use HVMP barends with your Pro Tapers? The ID of the PT's is smaller than stack and figuring out the HVMP's is on my to do list | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Nope. I sold mine to Maximum. You'd need smaller hardware that would fit within the ID of the new bars. You would need to carve the extruded rubber town to the ID of the new bars as well. I'm sure it can be done. I just went ahead and passed them along to another happy home. Some people have drilled out the center of the bars in order to accommodate the bar ends. You might be able to go that route. I'm sure it weakens it a little, but I doubt enough to make a difference. | ||
| Maximum |
I drilled out the ends of my Protapers with an 11/16th drill bit, and everything seems to be fine. But I wouldn't try it with a hand drill, the tolerances are just too tight. I used my Shopsmith (multi-purpose woodworking machine) as a boring machine, and made a jig to hold the bar firmly in place.  | ||
| Spike |
Maximum- Am I reading correctly that the Raptors are 1-5/8" lower than the stock Uly bars? Also, is there room to trim them to the width of the stock bars? Thanks! | ||
| Hooper |
Very slick...and I assume you're using earphones with this? What kind? | ||
| Maximum |
Spike: Yes, but the 1-1/8" bar adapters add back about an inch. So really you are only about .5" lower. The bars come marked with four lines (about a 1/4" apart) which are designed for you to cut to fit. I cut off two lines (1/2"), and that made the actual end to end measurement about 1/2" wider than stock. I could have cut them down more if I wanted to. Hooper: I have been using Shure E3's with the yellow foam ear pieces. I really like the sound quality of these, but the do stick out a little more than want most people want. I wrap the cords over the top of my ears and use my index fingers to hold my ears flat while sliding the helmet on. Although this system really works well for me, I have considered trying to have some custom molded in-ear monitors made for me, but they get pretty expensive! | ||
| Spike |
Maximum- Thanks! I'm looking for less sweep as well, but I'm not sure if I give up any height yet. From the pro-taper website it looks like the Raptor is the highest bend (143.2mm) they offer in the contour series bars, but in the SE series they show two ATV bars that are taller than the Raptor. I'd love to find a place that has them in stock so I compare the different bends to the Ulysses bars. |
