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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through February 10, 2008 » Primary-Trans Lube « Previous Next »

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Dougm
Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 08:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I noticed a little more noise than I expected from the primary yesterday when I would engage the clutch. Thinking I would check the clutch adjustment, I popped the cover off. Much two my surprise, one, a bunch of oil ran out, and two, it was about the color of the Badweb background.

I have been riding all winter, but I have a 1/2 hour commute. Even with temps in the teens, the fan comes on for a couple minutes when I shut down. I did not see any "paste" as seen in another thread a while back, just a grey colored oil, that was way overfilled. I will be doing my own maintenance from now on, thus a quick question.

I have been using HD Sport Trans in my XL for ever. I see that they no longer make it, replacing it with Formula+. What is the difference? I have a quart of Sport Trans sitting on my shelf, but I know the gears are cut different than my old Ironhead. Also, is the XB oil filter the same as the HD XL? No Buell shop anywhere near, but several HD shops.

Thanks all,

DougM
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Michael1
Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 09:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't believe the Buell filter is the same as the XL filter. If you search on here, there is a filter cross reference. I know the filter from my wife's old Toyota fit the Buell.

The Formula + has a different make up than the old Sport Trans fluid. I'm sure the Sport Trans fluid would work...and Formula + is what the dealer put in there. So in other words...it's up to you.
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Uly1080
Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 09:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Another option is to get supplies from Al at American Sport Bike or from another Badweb Sponsor if there's no Buell shop around where you live. I'd be willing to bet you could find everything you need for service right here.
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Etennuly
Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 11:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have seen threads where the clutch cable can leak and allow water into the primary oil. It doesn't take much to change the color, and just a little more to make it pasty. That thing works like a blender making a smoothie.
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Buellerandy
Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 11:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The filter is not the same. As far as primary fluid, formula and screaming eagle syn3 are both fantastic. The double nice part about screaming eagle syn3 is it works in both your motor and primary so you only have to stock 1 type of fluid, plus its available at any HD dealership. The oil filter you want is part number 63806-00y.
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Wademan
Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 12:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And fluid will spill out of the clutch adjustment cover if the bike is on the SIDE stand, that is normal. When filling you need to prop the bike upright to fill correctly and so you can get the correct amount of fluid in. Check the owners manual.

(Message edited by wademan on February 08, 2008)
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Treadmarks
Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 12:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Before you change your fluid, relube your clutch cable to push any water out. Use an electrical wire tie on the top of the adjuster boot to keep the water out.
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 12:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like you have a leak somewhere.

With the low temperatures your tranny isn't building enough heat to cook the water out.

I use the Formula+. It didn't keep my stator from conking out, but it will keep it healthier than high sulfur alternatives.

I don't believe your problem is your fluid (unless they put the wrong fluid at the dealer). I think the problem is moisture.

In stop and go traffic, you don't cycle through the gears. Your cylinders my generate heat, but your primary never reaches temp.
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Dougm
Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 01:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for all the input.

I did have the bike upright when I checked the fluid last night, and still quite a bit ran out. Even now, it is above the clutch diaphragm (but now slightly below the inspection hole). I know this was a problem on the Sportsters. The manual called for a quart, and owners would drain the primary and then refill through the chain inspection hole. It really only needed 28-29 oz. for a wet primary and folks would overfill. I just bought this Uly used in Oct. So I am not absolutely certain of it's maintenance past.

I have been caught in the rain a lot lately. Seems the weather is either 15 degrees or 60 and raining. I will try the tie on the boot.

I stopped in at the HD dealer at lunch. They are a MSF site and have some Blasts because of it. They actually had the Buell filter. Also picked up a quart of Formula+. I'll save the sport-trans for the Sportster.

I will go ahead and change the engine and primary fluids to so I know what and how much is in there.

One last question. I don't have any Loctite 565 thread sealer, but I do have a can of RectorSeal No. 5 I planned on using. Anyone see any problems?

Thanks again,

DougM

No. 5: "It can be pressurized immediately for piping up through 2" and 100 psi and is ideal for application with a wide variety of fluids and gases, including potable water application. Recommended for use on threaded galvanized steel, iron, brass, copper, aluminum, stainless steel, polyethylene, fiberglass reinforced and PVC pipe."
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Dentguy
Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 01:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dougm,I'm not sure about the sealant. I used the Permatex version. If it doesn't harden upĀ  it should be OK. Primary was definitely over full. It should not pour out when you take the cover off. It only should be up to the bottom of the diaphram spring. Mine took all 32 oz to get there when I changed it. Make sure to seal that cable as mine leaked in water also.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Friday, February 08, 2008 - 02:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A bad crank seal can let engine oil get into the tranny, making it look like it is gaining fluid. But that also generally results in oil spraying out the tranny vent when you ride it hard, so thats probably not your problem.
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Dio
Posted on Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 10:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I still haven't figured out why they want thread sealer on a plug with straight threads and an o-ring. I have never used any sealer, just oil on the o-ring, and never had any leaks whatsoever!
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 11:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I found something that sucks:

Pouring a funnel full of Formula+ only to realize that you forgot to put the drain plug back in and watching the first half quart run out into the drain pan.

Sonofa...There goes another 45 minute trip to the dealer. : |
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Tootal
Posted on Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 05:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, that's what we call the flushing pint. You have successfully flushed all that nasty old oil out and are ready to be properly filled. Bravo for doing a proper job!!

(Message edited by tootal on February 10, 2008)
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 06:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

: |

Yeah that's what I was thinking as I'm thinking FUQ, FUQ, FUQ, FUQ!

I was trying to get it all back together to go ride and wouldn't you know it every a$$hat on the planet is out going to the mall.
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Etennuly
Posted on Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 06:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had a guy working for me a couple of years ago who was "special" in ways I won't say. He did the the "flushing pint" trick with eight gallons of diesel oil. That PM service cost me $80.00 more than it should have. It also cost me a major clean up procedure.
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 06:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah, I'm "special" too.

When I installed my HIDs the first time, I had it all but buttoned up when I realized that I had installed the kit on the high beam instead of the low beam.

I regularly head out and hear "thwap, thwap, thwap, thwap!"

"DAMNIT, I FORGOT TO STRAP MY HELMET ON AGAIN!"

It got to be a running joke on my trip with Barker and Maximum.
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