| Author | Message | ||
     Baydog |
I know this has been covered before, buy I couldn't find it in a search. What's the best way to run a dedicated circuit from the battery to under the fly screen? I want to run an "always hot" wire for my GPS, but I'm concerned about routing the wire. How should the wire be routed? Thanks! | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I ran a thick gauge wire from the rear along the stock wiring harness, under the base of the airbox, around the left side of the frame head, and into the flyscreen. I added a shrink wrap thermoplastic sheath to the wires for added protection. Used zip ties to secure it to the harness. 2 years and 16,000 miles with zero problems. I'd use a separate fuse for it for sure. | ||
| Bobsims |
Baydog, I recently ran several circuits as part of my winter project, adding wiring for my electric jacket, heated grips, Stebel horn, and dual controllers for the heated gear. I need to write it up a bit better, but here are some pictures that might help you. +1 to FB's remarks above. There isn't a lot of room to run wiring through or around the fan "firewall" within the frame. You'll have to piggyback off of the existing wiring channel, being careful not to foul your wiring against the engine or the forks at full lock. I can't recommend the Eastern Beaver wiring harnesses enough. They seem expensive at first look, but they are actually a bargain for what you get, and are so durable and simple to install. You can easily spend as much on your own running around to source all the pieces. If you want an unswitched circuit (no relay), you can start by looking at Jim's Powerlet fused leads. Note that the ATM fuse holders hold the same type of fuse as the Buell's OEM fuse box. His relay kits are great as well. I appreciated the small, weatherproof relay he uses. It's easy to install in the tight confines of the Ulysses. HTH. Keep us updated on your results. Bob | ||
| Treadmarks |
+1 for Easter Beavers gear. He built me a secondary fuse box and complete harness with relays for the deathray setup, stebel horn and the aux jack for the electric vest. The fuse box mounts neatly under the seat and sends 3 fat hot wires under the dash panel to his relays. Since my headlights are 130 watts each, they each have their own dedicated power, fuse and relay. The lights are way brighter using his relay harness. The wire he provided was very flexible and I put them in their own harness and ran them next to the factory harness. I also found a very flexible (#4 wire) with permanently attached ends and secured it to the steering head grounding point and then ran it under the dash to provide a solid floating ground point for all the goodies up front. | ||
| Baydog |
Gents, Great information! When running the feed wire is it necessary to remove the air box base?? | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I only removed the left hand screws so that I could lift it up. I would have taken the other two off but the loctite was like concrete. I would just lift it up to the point that you can get your hands under it where you need. I wouldn't remove the intake. The main problem is going to be to make sure that the wire isn't laying across the hot heads or over top of any of the ignition wires where they could chafe. | ||
| Bobsims |
Baydog, FWIW, I'd recommend that you remove the air box base, if for no other reason than to inspect all the wiring and cabling under there for any existing chafing, as well as to ensure that your new wiring is properly routed, as per FB's remarks. For example, I discovered that the idle adjustment cable had chafed against the front head cover. I added a short section of protective cable flex cover in hopes of protecting it. Of course, if your air box base bolts have too much Loctite, then you may just want to raise one side. FWIW, my bolts weren't excessively tight. YMMV. HTH. Bob | ||
| Sanchez |
I just tapped the existing 12v accessory plug wires that are already under the flyscreen for my GPS, and I haven't had any problems. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Yeahbut, it's not "always on".  |
