| Author | Message | ||
     Skyclad |
Yes, I have searched for it, but I can't find the thread again. I found the thread that talks about putting a jumper in the dimmer switch to get both lights on while running the high beam. I could do that if necessary, but I remember seeing a thread that showed how to do it by changing one or two of the wires in the light plug. Anyone know where that thread is, or could just cover the method here again. Thanks. | ||
| Nipsey |
Try this: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/309459.html | ||
| Skyclad |
Thank you. That's what I was looking for | ||
| Atoms |
You should at least TRY the switch method before going to all the trouble of re-wiring. I was skeptical, but I tried it and it works. There is a sweet spot half-way between high and low beam settings on the switch where both lamps will go on. | ||
| Florida_lime |
The rewiring takes all of a couple minutes, and I was putting in 65W Osram bulbs anyways. Hopefully my HID low beam/PIAA 510 installation goes as smoothly, but it will take a bit longer for me. My middle name isn't Treadmarks or Maximum.  | ||
| Nipsey |
So if you do the dual headlight mod will hooking an Autoswitch to the high beam circuit still work to turn on aux lights? | ||
| Florida_lime |
I don't have an Autoswitch, but I would expect there is no problem since the 'low beam on all the time' is provided by switching the parking light and low beam wires; the high beam wiring and functions are unaffected. | ||
| Skyclad |
Atoms, I just finished the mod. It took me all of 15 minutes, and I had to fight with the connectors a bit to get them to release. It really isn't that hard. While I agree the switch method will work to some extent, I think the rewiring is a better idea. It is easy, you don't have to think about hitting a sweet spot while riding and it won't be affected by bumps (which I deal with every day here in PA). Just flip the switch and you have light...gotta love it. | ||
| Maximum |
Nipsey: Yes the Autoswitch will still work. It only needs a double pulse of current. When wired to the high beam flash switch, the high bean has to be in the off position for the Autoswitch to sense the pluses. I guess you could wire the Autoswitch to the horn, double honk on, double honk off! Florida_Lime said: "My middle name isn't Treadmarks or Maximum." Nothing is ever easy...it always takes twice as long and costs double what I plan! I was going to make a list of all my mods that didn't work out (or at least not on the first attempt), but then I realized the list would be longer than I have time for right now. Maybe I should start a "Maximum Blunder" thread sometime!  (Message edited by maximum on January 10, 2008) | ||
| Clutchless |
Check out your wire harness behind your flyscreen. If your any kind of handyman then find the wires that come from the headlamp assembley. I pulled the wires "gently" from the connectors and switched the running light power to my regular headlight! Most americans do not know about the running light because its only for international models (a.k.a. not a U.S.A. bike) When the running light powers the regular headlamp, turning on the highbeam does not cancel out your light because it is a running light. The running light stay on all the time in that small middle section between the two. Like those day time lamps on cars you see now a days. Takes 5 mins. Be totally positive which wires you switch. and its free. | ||
| Florida_lime |
That's what the 2nd post link is about. |
