| Author | Message | ||
     Marc |
Uly problem encountered on 1/6/08 which I’d like to see if anyone else has experienced: - First 20 minutes of the ride were 35mph to 75 mph on streets and highways. No issues at all with fabulous running for the first 20 minutes at all speeds and RPM levels. - Minute 21 and all minutes after.....All of a sudden I experienced a significant drop off in power. The motor will not accelerate as I roll on throttle...it just stutters, and loses RPM as it does not have the power to keep the bike at speed. This problem persisted for a minute, and then all of a sudden I felt the motor return back to normal power levels and consistent running. After a few minutes the power drop occurred again. No dash warning lights are lit when this power drop occurs. When I pulled the clutch in with no throttle during crappy running the idle has dropped to barely 500RPM…normal idle is 1,000-1,100 RPM as you all know. My Uly remained in intermittent crappy low power running mode for 10 minutes with only a few periods where it returned back to normal power levels. I limped to a gas station and added two gallons of 93 octane to ensure it was not a bad fuel issue from a prior gas station....the problem is still with me 40 miles later, so I’ve ruled out bad gas as the cause. A once over of the bike revealed no issues externally at the fuel stop....Oil Level is fine, no idiot lights at all, it does not appear to be running too hot. The bike sat for 10 minutes following my fuel stop and once over head scratching session. The bike started up just fine after the fuel stop, all electrical/lights are ok and the Uly ran fine for the first 5 minutes, and I began riding towards home as I'm worried about getting stranded with this gremlin…unfortunately my Uly returned to intermittent crappy regular running 5 minutes into the return trip. - I nursed my Uly home 15 miles with periods of "running fine" interspersed with periods of "crappy running" where I could not exceed 45 mph...I could not rev above 3,000RPM or so. She’d pop back in to regular power mode and I could accelerate back up to normal speeds and ride fine for a few minutes, but the gremlin always returned soon after. - This problem feels very electrical. The bike would transition out of "low powered crappy running mode" immediately into "regular power running mode" like it was on a light switch. Not a gradual transition but stutter, stutter, then an immediate kick back into regular running mode. - I made it home and let it cool down for two hours. I started it back up and went for another "near home" ride to test out my theory or get stranded close to home. The Uly ran just fine for the first 20 minutes, but after that the low power stuttering gremlin returned. So the gremlin shows up when the bike is fully warmed up! I nursed my Uly back home again and fought the regular power and stuttering power level all the way home. The crappy running periods got progressively worse the longer I rode. When the bike is cold and warming up (first 20 minutes) the problem does not arise, but after full warm up the intermittent problem remains and will not go away. I suspect it will only get worse as whatever it is fully wears out so it's off to the shop to get it fixed as I am not handy enough to find this myself. - My Uly is parked in my garage and I'll be taking it to my Dealer this week to have them diagnose and fix. My dealer is only 10 minutes away so I’ll make it…I hope! By the time I get there it should be warm and running crappily so I can show them the problem. Before I take the bike in, I wanted to see if anyone else has experienced a similar problem with their Uly so I can point the service department to a probable cause. My 2006 Uly has 20,400 miles and is just over two years old. In fact the warranty actually expired on 12/30/07. My dealer Conrad’s HD in Joliet, IL has completed all of my Uly’s 5K scheduled services. I have had the following recall/warranty items completed at my dealer as well: - side stand recall - Bank Angle Sensor - front vibration isolator replaced (rubber engine mount on front) - replaced warped front rotor @ 19K My Uly is due for an oil change and a TPS reset at 22K, but the spark plugs were changed at 18K so I’m pretty sure this is not fouled spark plugs. This bike starts just fine and runs good cold, so I can’t see spark plugs as the cause of my issue. Thanks for any experience you can offer on this gremlin. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Pinched or blocked tank vent line would create a vacuum in the tank starving the system of fuel? System will burp, allow in air, run normal, and then recreate the vacuum. Checked the charging system? Chaffed wiring harness? Checked it over? (Message edited by ft_bstrd on January 07, 2008) | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
While it's running crappy, use the second key and open the fuel filler cap and see if it immediate starts running right. If so, it's the tank vent. | ||
| Treadmarks |
Inspect your plug wires/connections. Possible faulty ECM that fails when it gets hot. Opening the tank to vent it is worth a shot. After the engine has been acting up a bit, is there a noticeable difference in the front and rear head temp. Is one of you head pipes hotter than the other? | ||
| Sillydrunk |
Sounds alot like what my 07 did when the ECM failed except it would run better when it got warm. As soon as I hit 3000 RPM it would miss and backfire and just run plain crappy as well as idle rough. Have a good look at the ECM and see if there isn't a hairline crack in it. | ||
| Etennuly |
There used to be a problem with the seat hitting on the ECM plug. I had this problem when got my '06 low seat. Its pan bent a little differently and allowed it to set right on the plug where it connects with the ECM. Some people had wires rub through from it. The cure seemed to be a black plastic spacer block that came with the seat. Some bikes already had one on them, others did not. Mine already had it so I didn't install the one that came with the seat. After it got stupid a few times I put the second one on the other side of the ECM's mounting bolt and the problem has been gone since. | ||
| Dfishman |
Also the coil could be breaking down when it gets hot.About 20 minutes is about how long it takes for it to get up to temp. Not saying this is the problem but it is worth looking at. | ||
| Chrisb |
I would check for intake leaks. Esp seeing how the problem only arises when the bike is hot. | ||
| Buelldyno_guy |
As stated above early 06 bikes had a issue with the seat and the ECM? and there is a Buell Service Tip and kit to correct the issue. But since it is when the bike heats up I would bet that the Cyl head temp connector has come loose and if so it will act like you described. The connector is under the bottom of the air box and the two ends just slip together without a lock very much like the rubber wire connectors on trailer lights. Good Luck Terry | ||
| Orangeulius |
marc I can give you a spacer block and lend you an 06 ECM if needed. Just let me know. Orange | ||
| Tootal |
I first thought coil failure also. When it idled at 500 did it sound like a one lunger? I've ridden in the rain on an old dresser that lost a cylinder from a leaking plug wire and it sounded a lot like your description. | ||
| Marc |
I completed visual checks of all the items identified in the posts above and I did not see any issues w/ECM, wire chafing, rear cylinder temp. wire, etc. I even did the fuel tank vacuum check and it did not solve the problem. It definitely could be a one-lunger. This is my first V-Twin and I've never experienced a "One-Lunger" before so I may have just popped my "one-lung" cherry! I've had inline jap bikes prior to the Uly and I am not accustomed to how V-twins act when they become ill. As I road to the dealer today the low power (or one lunging fouled plug if that is what it really is) happened only 3 minutes from my home and persisted for quite a while most of the way to the dealership. I left her running with the 500 RPM idle and rushed in to get Joe the Buell mechanic....and as Murphy's law would require the bike began idling fine again at 1,000RPM before I got Joe to the bike. We revved it a few times....just fine. Joe believes it is a fouled plug. I went for a quick 3 minute ride after our discussion and wailed on the Uly really good to try and warm it up again and re-create the issue...but it never came back..she ran just fine. Joe explained to me that the way to get through a fouled plug for the short term is to simply wail on the throttle to clean the carbon out of the plug...which is exactly what I had just done! Once fouled, plugs do need to be replaced so the short term fix of wailing on the throttle to clean out he carbon will get you to your destination and further if needed...but don't ignore it for long. THIS IS ALL MAKING SENSE as on the prior weekend where I first experienced the problem I was so afraid of "busting up my engine" I was very light on the throttle and eased off when the crappy running started. Even when it ran well I was in "nurse it home" mode instead of "flog it" mode as I was afraid of getting stranded. Joe will be replacing the plugs, doing a TPS reset as well and giving it a once over. Even though my Uly plugs are only 4,000 miles old, Joe told me that fouled plugs with the XB12X fuel injection is a common occurence...and now that I think about it I've read many a post about it myself. I'll report back once the repair is complete and I've gotten a good long ride in to ensure my problem is really fixed. As Joe replaced the plugs 4k ago he'll do this for free. Keeping my fingers crossed that it is just a cheap fouled plug! Thanks again for the advice gents. - Marc | ||
| Dfishman |
If you start you Uly make sure you run it up to temp before shutting off.It WILL foul plugs if it is started & shut off before it has warmed up.I do not start it anymore to only move it around the yard.Now when I just need to move it a short distance I either push it or ride around the block to get to my "short distance" | ||
| Florida_lime |
Wife: "Where the @#$% have you been -- I thought you were just going to go move your bike ?" Me: "I read on Bad Web that I should not be taking short trips, so I went up to Daytona !"  | ||
| Chris_socal |
It is best to get it up to higher RPM's in a high gear. That way the engine is getting hot and burning all of that crap off. My brother had a similar situation when he started the bike when it was really cold outside. The next day the bike was exhibiting very similar characteristics you described. As soon as he opened it up and really gave it the business the bike was fine and no more issues. -Chris |
