| Author | Message | ||
     Portero72 |
Howdy all. For several months now, I have been running 2 55w driving lights wired into a fused cigarette lighter-style plug off the accessory plug under the seat. A few days ago the lighter plug's fuse blew(glass 10a). Today, the fuse for that switch on the bike blew(blade style, also 10a). My question is-am I overloading the accessory plug? It ran fine, like I said, for months. Are there any reasons this would happen? FWIW, I am electrically challenged. I considered it a major electrical triumph to wire it up the way I did, then see it work. Responses kept simple would be appreciated. thx | ||
| Gsron |
2 55 watt lights is aprox 9 amps of draw (guys correct me if I'm wrong) and that's very close to the max of the fuse. Those lights should be wired through a relay and drawing power directly from the battery. If the power outlet is switched with the key you could use that "power" to activate the relay, then you couldn't forget to turn the lights off. I have 2 55 watt PIAAs on my GS and they are run through a relay that is triggered by power from the front parking light. I can leave them on all the time or switch them on and off manually. But since the park light is hot only with the key on I can't walk away and leave them on. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Ron's spot on. It may take a little while to blow a fuse, but your current set up will provide the same results. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Get a pair of the PIAA "powersport" bulbs for your lights. I run them on my S2 with no problems at all. They're 35w but still put out a ton of light and have a reduced amp draw. | ||
| Portero72 |
Gsron-how exactly would I wire in a relay? I like the idea of 'on with the key', which is why I have the current setup. Can I leave the plug in the socket and just splice in the relay? thx for the help guys | ||
| Reepicheep |
7.97 amps for 110 watts... So it depends on what else is being fed by that fuse. Thats a big bite of the available pie... | ||
| Bad_karma |
Mark when did the fuse fail? If it was during a spike on/off for example then a slow blow fuse might be an option. But if it is failing during sustained operation then your fuse is under rated. Which it is. The relay option discussed is the best way to go in my opinion. But I would consider the simplest install because of the low amperage. One less part is one less failure. Relays are a relatively high failure component, though solid state's have helped. Your choice. Joe | ||
| Reepicheep |
You would wire in a relay as follows: Run a separately fused lead from the battery, and connect this to the "power" end of the relay. Then connect the other "power" end of the relay to your load (in your case your lights). Grounds can stay where they are. There should not be any polarity for the switch side, either one can be on the battery side. The symbol for the power side looks like an open switch. Then connect a wire from the current accessory line to the "coil" side of a 12v relay. The symbol for a coil looks like... well... a little coil. Then ground the other coil side. The coil side should have polarity markings, one for + and one for - (- is ground). That's it. A relay is simply a little electrial linear motor that is used to just throw a switch. I always tried to avoid relays, as they are mechanical devices, and mechanical devices on motorycles have a hard life. That being said, I have what look to be original relays on a 1985 KLR-250 that work perfectly. (Message edited by reepicheep on January 01, 2008) | ||
| Luftkoph |
http://www.rallylights.com/hella/Relays.asp this will help you out on how to wire in a relay | ||
| Portero72 |
bad_karma...the 10a fuse(IN the plug) failed first while under operation. a day or so later the 10a fuse FOR the outlet on the fusebox failed, also under operation(the fuse in the plug was intact). exactly when they failed is a mystery-i just noticed the acc. lights go out. if I AM overtaxing the outlet, would a higher rated fuse or slowblow be a bad idea? thx for all the help, guys. | ||
| Portero72 |
Reepicheep(you big mouse, you)/Luftkoph-great info, thx a ton. | ||
| Xbimmer |
if I AM overtaxing the outlet, would a higher rated fuse or slowblow be a bad idea? Maybe, fuses are in there to protect stuff, raising the threshold may not be a good idea. I considered the rear accessory outlet for wiring in a jacket liner. After consulting the shop manual and finding that both accessory outlets run together on the same 10-amp fused circuit I dropped the idea. Relays IMHO are a great idea, allow pure power from the battery to your lights. Only problem I've ever had with relays was the starter protection relay on my airhead R100S. Replaced the $30 Bosch crap twice before someone told me to use anti-seize on the contacts. Worked for decades after. I like Italian relays, last a long time and cheap. | ||
| Portero72 |
On that note, is there a specific kind/type of relay I should get? Seems I am leaning in that direction. Have I mentioned I am an electrical dee dee dee? Thx for the help | ||
| Jackbequick |
American Sports Bikes, one of the sponsors here, sells an German made 30 Amp relay that is known to be a good one. And up to the standards needed for use on motorcycles. It is called a "high inrush" relay and that means that it won't tend to burn up the contacts when it closes under moderate to heavy loads. Generic/cheap/not high inrush relays will not last as long or be as trouble free generally. Jack | ||
| Portero72 |
I DID IT!!!!! (cue first-time-on-big-boy-potty voice). I got that biznatch(relay) wired in, zip tied down, and all appears to be well(lights aplenty). Too cold for a real ride to shake it down, but I'm sure its fine. With your help, electro-clueless boy wins again. THX, Y'ALL. |
