| Author | Message | ||
     Natron |
I picked up a 2008 Ulysses two weeks ago and have been getting to know it on backroads in the Middle Tennesee area. Coming off of a 2002 Suzuki SV650S, the Ulysses is a totally different bike, and better in every way I have noticed so far. I find myself going places I never would have gone on the SV650S. Today's ride found me on several one lane roads with really bad pavement, which the Ulysses just ate up, and one gravel road with two creek crossings. I'm sure everyone knows where this is heading now. The first creek had a gravel bottom and went very smoothly. The second one I probably should have abandoned as I could tell that the streambed was slick limestone. I figured the worst that could happen is a low speed dump in 3 inches of water, so I went for it. yep. low speed dump in 3 inches of water. Minimal damage to the bike, just popped the left handguard off and broke the shifter shaft arm (top of the linkage) and the bolt attaching the shift lever to the primary case. I rode to the nearest hardware store in 1st gear, and clamped some vise grips to the shaft arm so I could at least bump it between 1st, neutral, and 2nd so I could make it the last 40 miles home. I will need a complete new shifter assembly to fix it, obviously. (hopefully the dealer can ship it to me directly) The real question is: Is there any way to cross slick wet rock and not dump the bike? My Aerostich Combat Lites don't grip wet rock any better than the scorpion syncs do, it seems, as my feet sliding out from under me are really what caused me to go down. Some background. I've been riding for 6+ years, all street-specific bikes. So I have no real experience on gravel, or anything offroad. I'm just glad to be part of the club. This is an awesome bike. | ||
| Etennuly |
Slime covered wet rocks will dump anybody on a four hundred plus pound bike that has any thing but the knarliest of knobbys. It does not help that it is as tall as it is, so that if you do put your feet down you cannot spread them out far enough to use them as outriggers. I have seen guys wreck jeeps because of the slime leading them off the intended trail. If you are riding with someone else it is always fun to let them go first to "test the waters" as it were. Heck, even many a good and well prepared fisherman has ended on his butt from stepping on slime covered rocks. If I rode up to it and saw that it was shallow and otherwise clear on the bottom, I would get up a little momentum and try to cruise across standing on the pegs using enough clutch and throttle to let your momentum gradually decrease as as you reach the other side. Then easily accelerate out the other side as the front tire gets on firmer ground. | ||
| Cityxslicker |
each creek crossing is different. Recon before blindly running in, make sure there are no visible sink holes, watch the current, try and run opposite at a lil bit of an angle upstream. once in it, do not brake! maintain constant speed, avoid hard rolling on the throttle, cross at the most narrow point, and by the time you read all of this, you could just go and run the creek. check out the video section to see the bikes running through the water. Now go play in the mud and muck and use the creeks to "wash" the bike | ||
| Jameslaugesen |
If the rear wheel is spinning you'll be able to keep the bike upright whether it's moving forward or not, after a bit of practise. Obviously you need to stay ready on the clutch incase the tyre grips suddenly. So my advice (if it is _really_ slippery) is to throttle-up and just balance your way through - a rolling burnout essentially. I find there's a choice you need to make; either 'baby' the bike through, trying to make the most of whatever grip is available, and trying to avoid braking traction. Or, accept that there's not enough grip to safely baby your way through, so spin that wheel like a mad-man and rely on gyroscopic force to keep you dry  For me, the choice usually depends on my footing. If I can safely walk the bike through, I'll do that. But if my boots can't even get a grip, I think it's safer to stay on the gas (and be ready on the clutch and kill switch). | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
You been playin' around Leipers Fork again? | ||
| Natron |
I never in a milion years would have thought of spinning the wheel through that. The key sounds like using the spinning rear wheel to keep the bike totally upright so it doesn't have a chance to slide sideways. I may have to stock up on shift levers before I practice it. Ft_bstrd, I was somewhere around Leipers Fork. I think it was on Old Lick Creek Rd. I love that now I have a bike that can explore so much more of that area. | ||
| Birdmanrh |
Simple, You need a take off ramp and landing ramp....no problem. ;) Seriously, just GOOOOO!!!!!! | ||
| Khelton |
The Uly is geared so tall that when you try to spin it up a little, maybe to just keep the RPM up, the tire is really spinning fast even at a slow forward motion..... I won't be trying that again... | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I know that creek crossing well. I about dumped it there, Chad did dump it there, and another rider friend of ours dumped his Bandit there. I doesn't seem like much, but it will bite you in the butt quick! Nate, I sent you a PM. | ||
| Natron |
Got the PM. It's not the first crossing that gets you (the one visible from South Lick Creek Rd, shaded by trees) It's the second one. Any damage to the other bikes when they dumped? Also, does anyone have an idea of how much a shift assembly costs? (upper shaft arm, linkage, and shift lever) | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
You should be able to get everything you need for less than $50. Chad lost his shifter and linkage on the same crossing. The first one is fine. Take the gravel road to the second one, and you can see good pavement just feet beyond the other side. Unfortunately, you'll be riding that pavement in first or pushing it. | ||
| Danger_dave |
Slippery sh*t is slippery sh*t. The factory guys made us walk the bikes across some of the Daintree creek crossings on the North Queeensland ride - because they were too rocky and slippery. My legs were long enough that I could have ridden them, but the consensus was we push. Right past the crocodile warning signs. Otherwise it was nail the exit! woohoo  | ||
| Diablobrian |
I wouldn't want to be thrashing around in the water next to a croc warning sign trying to get the bike off of my leg! They were smart to make the call for pushing instead. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Uhh... is that a bridge? | ||
| Danger_dave |
Worried your petticoat will get wet? ;-P | ||
| Xbimmer |
Just thinkin' about our friends the wheel bearings!  Seriously Danger_dave, your pics are great! | ||
| Danger_dave |
Cheers - That one is by Lou Martin. Yes - just kidding - but that pic is also a pretty good metaphor for why I ride a XB12X. If there is a puddle I'll avoid the bridge to ride through it. If there is a hard way, I'll take it. A rougher road - I'll seek it. A stunt, I'll try it. Love this bike | ||
| Windrider |
"The real question is: Is there any way to cross slick wet rock and not dump the bike?" No. Do enough water crossings and you go down. Just part of the game when riding through slick, unseen obstacles. Throttle usually helps. Keep the front end light. | ||
| Greenagain |
Go faster ! | ||
| Chadhargis |
I was wondering if that was the crossing near Liepers Fork. The first one is easy, all gravel bottom, but the second on is a concrete bottom, and covered with algae. That alone is bad, but not what put me down alone. The fact that you have to make a left hand turn on to that slick concrete is the bugaboo. I'd done that crossing at least a dozen times on everything from a Ducati Monster to an FJR1300 and made it fine, I guess the Uly just gave me a false sense of security or something. I blasted in there too fast and "BAM", down I went. I was dressed in leather from head to toe, and it sucked up the water like a dry sponge. Luckily I put the Uly in 3rd gear and rode the rest of the way home without a shifter. |
