| Author | Message | ||
     De50man |
Basically, I installed Magnecor wires, a wideband O2 sensor, and Vrod Destroyer injectors. I also changed the handlebars to renthal low rise bars. I have the bike hooked up via laptop through DirectLink and ECMspy. All the lights work, high beam low beam, turn signals, horn works, brake lights. When I turn the key the fuel pump turns on, and the bike doesn't show that it is throwing any trouble codes. However, it won't even turn over, it doesn't even try to. I think I may have messed up the ignition switch in the housing somehow, I'm not sure, but that seems like the only reason that the bike wouldn't even try to turn over. I'm exhausted right now, and I can't think of anything to do. Any other thoughts? Thanks, Phil | ||
| Rwcfrank |
The fact that you dont even get starter engagement makes me think handlebar controls. If they need to be grounded are you sure they are? | ||
| Pso |
Sounds like time for a break and re-group. Some here call it a "Miller Time" or whatever libation of choice. You seem to be knowledgable about working on things so you will figure it out. Or as Arhtur Dent was instructed "DON'T PANIC". Good Luck p.s. I talk from personal experience regarding the above, I am not trying to be a smart a**. | ||
| Treadmarks |
The fact that the fuel pump comes on is a fair indicator that ignition power is available. Is there power signal at the coil? I diagnostics in ECM spy will it let you check the CPS? If you toggle the handlebar kill switch while the key is on, will the fuel pump cycle? Whats up with the v-rod injectors? | ||
| De50man |
Hmm, I have checked and double checked the grounds. It seemed to me like the battery was low, and I let it sit on the charger for a while, and it turned over once but didn't start. I figured it was the battery so I had someone try and jump it, but I got absolutely nothing, which makes me think that it is a loose connection somewhere. The fuel pump does cycle on and off with the kill switch. I'm wondering if there is a way I can trigger the ignition without the switch with minimal wire cutting/exposing involved. Phil Edit  The Vrod injectors... well, this is an XB14X (Message edited by de50man on October 26, 2007) | ||
| Bertotti |
Use some jumper wires, not jumper cables, jump past everything and hot wire it to see if it engages if it does you know it is wiring related then just start jumping individual wires till you find it. | ||
| De50man |
I figured I would take the battery to get tested... It was bad, but they discharged and charged it. Installed it, and everything runs peachy! Thanks all! Phil | ||
| Bertotti |
Great go have a blast now. | ||
| De50man |
After running it just a couple minutes, I noticed the front cylinder has tons of oil coming off of it. I can't tell exactly where it is coming from, but it is dropping off of the fins on the heads. Its too dark to see exactly where it is coming from. I just vented my breathers, that coulnd't possibly be the problem? I'm going to be really angry if I find out one of my gaskets is shot... Phil | ||
| Treadmarks |
Sounds like a bad rocker box seal is keeping the head from sealing right, or maybe a pushrod box seal | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Couldn't possibly be the mechanics who assembled it. I heard they were a right honorable bunch.  | ||
| De50man |
Well, upon further inspection I noticed the main oil line in the front of the cases was not even on snugly and a goodly amount of oil was seeping out of that too. I tightened that down, and then at idle I couldn't tell that there was any more oil leaking. When I revved the engine to 3k and held it there for a few seconds, a very slight drip of oil started coming off the fin on the heads. The gaskets seem to be in proper condition, and I suspect the pushrod covers to be at fault. I don't think I should even ride it in to the dealer in this condition, but it may just be my paranoia... By the way, the servicing dealership *was* Wild Boar Harley-Davidson. Great bunch of people, well, great bunch of cockroaches anyway, well, they aren't so great either... Edit: It appears (from their repair order) that the pushrod cover gaskets weren't replaced, the o-rings weren't replaced either. They didn't bother changing the clamps on the exhaust either. The oil is filled just past overfull, is it possible at all that this drip will go away when my uly gets back to its normal 2.5 X on the dipstick? (Message edited by de50man on October 27, 2007) | ||
| Treadmarks |
If the pushrod boxes aren't assembled right, the only way to fix it is to pull the heads and do it right. On a different stroke, If your vent hoses are pinched or kinked and not venting properly then oil will come from just about anyplace it can. Don't ask me how I learned that one. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Phil, It sounds like they did everything they could besides pouring sugar in the tank and leaving nuts in the cylinder to screw it up for you. How hard is it to put 2.5 quarts in a bike? So besides the leak, how's the performance? | ||
| De50man |
Well, considering it is a 1426cc now, I put in the vrod destroyer injectors that flow ~42% more than stock, and I ran the stock ecm. And it was just slightly rich. But dear lord, that baby pulls like no tomorrow! Torque is through the roof, I just wish I had a higher rev limiter, this baby is nuts! I can't wait to get it fully dialed in. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
You gonna have it smartened up by the weekend of the 10th? | ||
| De50man |
I certainly hope so, the minor oil leak doesn't seem to affect the bike in any noticeable way. I'm monitoring oil levels very carefully, but all is good so far. And I'm hopefully going to have that sorted out this weekend (drill again). Then back down to TN  | ||
| De50man |
Apparently the engine has to heat cycle a few times before the oil stops coming out of any crevice it sees fit (according to the stealership). So I have to "heat cycle" my engine to ensure that everything expands and such, and maybe retorque the heads... How do they expect me to retorque the heads? Anyways, this sounds like a load of complete BS to me... But I have been wrong once in a great while ;P Any idea if what they say is valid? I just let the bike warm up to operating temps, no oil leaking. Revved it to 3k and 4k for 10-15 seconds a couple times, still no oil leaking. Checked the oil, the oil is just under the add line, I'm going to add more oil and see if the leaking continues. Edit: When I mentioned the main oil feed line coming from the engine cases was leaking, the service manager just shrugged it off and said "Yeah, that can come loose.". After a short 1-2 mile ride after their service?! Thanks, Phil (Message edited by de50man on October 29, 2007) | ||
| Treadmarks |
Cough (BS) cough... I'm gonna call bs on any oil leaking from a fresh motor. I know that a fresh motor will have more blow by and crank case pressure until the piston rings seal, but if vented properly it should not cause a leak. | ||
| Madduck |
If you have an all out Drag Race motor, everything he says is true. Plan on re-building that beast every 10 runs or so. No high performance street motor should be given to a customer that way. It should have been put together and heat cycled on the shop dyno so the customer doesn't have to worry about that process, those oil leaks would have shown up and fixed then. Much better results can be achieved by a skilled technician indoors on a dyno than you can hope to achieve on the street. Every shop is different but happy customers generate a lot more business than unhappy customers. | ||
| De50man |
Big surprise, the POS stealership (Wild Boar Harley-Davidson, Hudsonville MI) says I must not have heat cycled the engine well enough. Therefore all the oil leaking was caused by me, and not their mechanics, and therefore they are not responsible for the bike. Unfortunately, I don't have the money to have another dealership fix whatever the hell they messed up. And I don't have access to the kind of tools I may need to fix it myself, much less the time to. I have to leave for Camp Greyling Thursday morning, and was planning on taking my Uly back to Tennessee upon my return. Chalk another one up to the great Buell dealers list eh? Phil | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
That sucks. Betcha if it were a Screamin' Eagle kit upgrade they'd have done a better job. | ||
| Stevem123 |
It constantly amazes me that these boneheads are more than willing to take your money and build whatever you want, only to blow you off after they have their money. Doesn't anybody care about repeat business anymore? I guess they figure not!  BC Steve | ||
| De50man |
It seems to leek only at higher rpms... which leads me to believe that it is due to excess crankcase pressures. I'm going to try and install a Krankvent one way breather to minimize the internal pressure, and hopefully that will fix everything. We shall see. Phil (Message edited by de50man on November 07, 2007) |
