| Author | Message | ||
     Midnightrider |
some time ago someone posted an easy way to get both lights on with the high beam switch - involved switching pin position in the connector ( not a jumper). I've searched but can't find it. Little help, please | ||
| Florida_lime |
You need to pull the connector apart that supplies the high beam, low beam, and 3rd Euro running light. Switch the low beam for the Euro light in the connector; the Euro light is on full time. I'll see if I can find the post I did detailing the switch, it can be a little tricky releasing the wire from the connector. | ||
| Daveymac |
Does this help: http://www.rhinowerx.com/fotos/details.php?image_i d=2501 | ||
| Midnightrider |
that's the one. thanks | ||
| Arkaybee |
Elegant mod. Will keep me from inadvertently leaving the parking light on in the garage overnight (again). Thanks. | ||
| Saltydog |
Just did it..thanks!! | ||
| Mike_dinger |
An alternative to this mod is to just use the switch method. The switch sticks at the halfway point between normal and bright, and seems to work well without the fuss of removing the flyscreen and rewiring. You just need to play with it a few times to get it to stay at the sweet spot. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I just modded mine per Rhinowerx.com. Thanks. | ||
| Sanchez |
Just did mine tonight. To release the metal pins from the plastic connector, you first open the catch at the back. Next, you release the 4 plastic catches on the inside from the front. Push something small and pointy into each opening, keeping the sharp end pressed against the metal. This pushes the catch up and out of the way, and you can wiggle the pin out from the back. The wire colors on my 06 were different from those in the link. The proper pins to switch are 1 and 3. The black ground wire is pin 4. | ||
| Atoms |
Any ideas on what Buell might have been thinking when they went to all the trouble to design the headlight configuration? I'd like to have both on in the high beam situation but I can't help but wonder why it isn't the default. | ||
| Florida_lime |
"Too much heat generated" I haven't had any problems with my conversion, but I only run high beams at night when traffic allows, and it is (a little) cooler. | ||
| Hooliken |
I think bike makers have configured our headlights this way so we can be told at least once a week... "One of your headlights is not working". | ||
| Jkelly |
Just did the mod also and really like it. Combine this with the Philips +80% H7 bulbs and the bad light problem went away. Jeff | ||
| Sanchez |
Any heat problems with the H7's? Someone mentioned the reflective backing in the light is just plastic and that a brighter bulb can melt it. | ||
| Florida_lime |
Stock bulbs are H7, so there should be NO problems with 55W replacement bulbs. I have 65W H7 Osrams for both the high and low beam, both on with the high beam, and have had no problems (yet  ) | ||
| Kvdog |
Thanks to everyone who shared information on this mod. I found that a narrow-tipped jeweler's screwdriver indeed works the best for moving the plastic stop holding the wire tab in place. Much less chance of deforming the plug body this way. | ||
| Florida_lime |
Kvdog, Same thing I used when I did mine ! | ||
| Sath |
I used a big safety pin, the pointed part of course. And an electrical friend said your heat goes up with the wattage, like 50w to a 100w is 50% heat increase. Sath | ||
| Pso |
I tried putting the switch half way between hi and lo and it works very well on the Uly and the Scg. | ||
| Sath |
I tried that too, but when bobbin and weaving here in the mountains I had to much trouble trying to find that sweet spot after going back and forth with coming traffic. I took the time (not much after I figured it out) and switch the wiring. Sath | ||
| Bertotti |
Did anyone run their additional fog lights to their low beam switch? | ||
| Sath |
Not sure, there are a lot of postings on the Buelletinboard about this same question. That is where I think the original question came from. There was some on running additional lights and the thought was the wiring would not handle the additional amps. To hot, might melt or burn out. Sath | ||
| Bertotti |
If I have to pull wires I would just as soon pull wires for the stock switch set up and have it all in there. Thanks. | ||
| Xb12lp |
I changed my wire harness so both headlights could be on at the same time. I switched the yellow and orange w/ stripe wires. I tried to release the pins but could not remove them so I cut and spliced the wires. Works Great!!!!!! | ||
| Reepicheep |
going from 50 watts to 100 watts is a 100% increase in heat. Of course, it is over a larger area, as you have two point sources of heat spread apart (rather then one point source). That will dissipate heat better. Plenty of margin for that in the stator and wiring harness, no problem there. The switch should be able to handle it fine as well. Melting the enclosure or prematurely burning out bulbs are about your only real risks. | ||
| Tginnh |
Just made this mod last night. I managed to switch the wires using a jeweler's screwdriver, but it wasn't easy. Anyway, great mod. Thanks to all for posting. | ||
| Tiberius |
Thread resurrection I did the mod, but I keep blowing my accessory fuse. Has anyone else experienced this problem? It's on an '08. thanks, |
