| Author | Message | ||
     Portero72 |
This is probably not a new issue, just one i've noticed as i become more comfy with the bike. cruising between 3-4k rpms, i notice a slight surging. is this abnormal? btw, i've got 1900 miles on her, WITH 1k service complete. thx | ||
| Etennuly |
Mine '06 did that when it was about that new too. TPS was out of spec. Done under warranty and hasn't needed a reset since, and now at about 22,000 miles. | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
Mine was doing that also. I had the TPS reset (kudos to Highland Buell in somerset, PA) at 1500 miles while on a road trip and it improved significantly. Now at about 4500 miles the bike is running like a top, hardly surges at all. | ||
| Portero72 |
hmmm. I 'know' the tps reset is a part of the 1k svc, and when I asked, they said they did it. it did seem to run smoother WAY down low(less than 2k rpms) after the svc, and its been a good dealer experience so far, so i hate to doubt them. hmmm, maybe i'll take it back in for a check. | ||
| Etennuly |
If it is out of spec it should be a warranty thing. Post here for a few days there may be someone in your area that has the stuff to do the reset at their home garage. Many fellow BadWebbers help each other in these ways!  | ||
| Portero72 |
y'all and the advrider folks have been awesome. warms the cockles...  | ||
| Hoon |
Yeah mine does it too ('06/6000miles) but normally only when it's raining/about to rain. I'm still waiting for the BAS parts to come in to the dealer,I'll get them to do the TPS then. | ||
| Jlnance |
cruising between 3-4k rpms, i notice a slight surging. There are two types of surging the Uly is prone to, at least as far as I can tell. One is the TPS being set incorrectly, which predominantly shows up at low RPM. The other one occurs at steady throttle just over 3000 RPM. This seems to be the Fuel Injection system adjusting its AFV value. It does this when it's running in closed loop mode, which happens when cruising in the RPM range you mention. I'm don't think this one is really fixable, as it seems to be operating as designed. (Message edited by jlnance on September 24, 2007) | ||
| Pso |
About 1 year ago I took my bike in for the 1K servicing. When I got it back it did as yours does. I called to take the bike back so that they could fix whatever they had done to make the bike not run very well. It was tough to get back in to the dealership(the assistant service manager seemed to be more interested in coloring in his tattoo outlines with majic markers and eating bananas). The fellow had told me to bring the bike in and that they would get someone to look at it within the next 6 weeks!!!! probably just a stall so that I would not bring it in. I asked about a loaner seeing as how I had purchased the bike from them. "No loaners" was the answer. I contacted the owner and got them to take the bike back that week. Anyway the tech reset the TPS and then test rode the bike and said that it worked fine. (This was only one of two Buell X's that they had sold). Anyway the bike was better. I also talked with the tech, he was a reasonable man and took the time to talk. He told me that he was not experienced with Buell's because the dealership had not sold and thus not serviced many. He was apologetic, but I am not sure if he knew how a Uly should feel when riding, seeing as how he had been a Hardley tech for years. My fiance' purchased a 07 Scg this past spring, and I test rode it. WOW what a difference between my Uly and her Scg, so I purchased the TPS reset cables and SW from Al and did a TPS reset on my Uly as directed. What a difference that made, my bike now pulls from 2k up and it is very smooth at 2800 on up. I also did Sara's Scg (1K servcing) and her bike is even stronger after the TPS reset. My point is that the dealer did a tps reset twice on my Uly and for some reason did not get it to the best it could be. The second time it was beter and thus until I rode the Scg and did my own reset a year later I did not realize how much I had lost through the rests at the dealership. It seems, based upon what I have read here, as if some dealers are good at the TPS reset and others are not as good. I agree with Etennuly, if you can find a local person it only takes about 5 minutes max to do a good reset, and the folks on this board are great when it comes to helping each other. | ||
| Portero72 |
That's a slight drag, prolly one i can live with, though. I tend to run 3500-4000 rpms on the highway, right in the middle of the 'surge zone'. It's just a tad distracting. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
It actually takes about 1/2 hour to do a good TPS Reset. 20 to 25 minutes to go out and properly heat the engine up and 5 to 10 minutes to hook it to the computer and do the Reset procedure. Chances are, these dealerships that screw up the Reset do not allow the tech to take the bike out and heat it up because they "consider" this paying the tech to screw off. That's just a guess how these folks operate. That is why you need to learn to do it yourself. Thankfully we have ECMSpy available for that and other things. | ||
| Aeholton |
Typically surging occurs in the 3000-3500 rpm range. I believe this is due to ecm switching back and forth between open and closed loop sampling. When I find myself trying to cruise in this range, I drop a gear to bring revs over 3500 rpms. If you are cruising from 3500-4000, you shouldn't be noticing any surging. | ||
| Pso |
Electroglider-I asked Al about having the engine warmed up before the TPS and he said that is not necessary. So I didn't and it seemed to worked for me, but the improvment was so great that I thought it was perfect. If I let the engine warm up how will that affect the TPS and also will the beniftes be even greater? It is so simple to do, perhaps I will do another TPS tonight when I get home, or better yet, I feel a headcold coming on so perhaps I need to take some sick leave this afternoon. Portero-find a way o get it done and see if it works, the improvement is well worth the effort. No reason to make allowances, I did not realize I had, but WOW what a difference when set properly. (Message edited by pso on September 24, 2007) | ||
| Etennuly |
I totally agree with Electro-, the tech's probably didn't warm it up properly before doing the reset. I have seen the problem with a miss in the rain being caused by the plug wires rubbing through. It is usually the front one where it rubs on the idle adjuster screw cable. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I'm no expert but that TPS pot is located between two cylinders that get might warm and that is why you'd want the bike at operating temp to do the reset. Makes plenty of sense to me. | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
Etennuly, that's weird, mine was worse in the rain too. Do you think it's possible a plug wire wore through at 1500 miles? I'll have to check out the wires soon. | ||
| Treadmarks |
Do you think it's possible a plug wire wore through at 1500 miles? Yes, they can. Mine did. Get some magnecor wires, you will not regret it. Guys, Here is the deal on the solid TPS reset. Think of the TPS as a spring loaded pot. It sends a voltage signal to the ECM and it adds fuel accordingly. Very simple really. The entire process is actually based on the starting point of the TPS in relation to the throttle plate. The TPS has two plastic index tabs that must line up with the tabs on the throttle plate shaft. It seems most TPS sensors are installed straight up from the factory and this is ok for a while. After the bike is broken in, these tabs get a small amount of wear on them and they are no longer properly timed with the true zero of the throttle plate. This is when everyone runs to the stealer to get their TPS reset. It is the combination of wear on the TPS tabs, and lack of technical proficiency of the techs that seem to always provide mixed results. In order to be certain you have a true zero try the following: With your air box assembly and base off, the TPS sensor is right on top of the throttle body. If your TPS has two orange dots, you have the new revision with the vertical alignment tabs. This procedure applies to the old style as well. Adjust both throttle cables so sufficient slack is available. Back off idle adjustment cable until the throttle plate will snap shut without touching the idle cable stop. With a scribe, mark the TPS position by scratching a single line from the throttle body to the TPS. This will serve as a reference point just in case. With a 7mm open end wrench, remove the two TPS mounting bolts and remove the TPS from the throttle body. Clean the debris from the back of the TPS and the side of the throttle body. Apply a small amount of high temp silicone grease to the tabs on the TPS to minimize wear in the future. Replace the TPS but leave the mounting bolts slightly loose and rotate the TPS full left (counterclockwise). Insure the throttle plate is totally closed, then rotate the TPS until you feel the spring make contact with the alignment tabs on the throttle plate. Rotate the TPS slightly clockwise to preload the mechanical zero position and secure mounting bolts. Most of you will notice that according to your reference marks, your new position is just slightly right of the old position. Now your TPS and throttle plate are truly aligned, without play. Connect all wiring and perform a TPS reset, just like the manual states. Now you have a solid TPS zero. Ride and feel the difference. I have no more sneezing or lean like surging. (I have been told that this procedure is in the manual somewhere. I just had to learn the hard way, as usual). All your TPS are belong to us.  (Message edited by treadmarks on September 25, 2007) | ||
| Florida_lime |
Ride and feel the difference. I have no more sneezing or lean like surging. Miami is looking closer to me all the time, how does your appointment book look ?  | ||
| Treadmarks |
Miami is looking closer to me all the time, how does your appointment book look ? The colder the beer, the looser the appointments!  |
