| Author | Message | ||
     Gugnheim |
I need some help guys and gals. I was installing my factory taller wind shield tonight and despite the fact I was hand threading the screws for the fly-screen back in to avoid just this thing, some how I did it. One of the screws into the screen stripped. How in the name of Buell do I go about fixing this or am I totally screwed? I just barley made it through changing the plugs, was on a high and bammo, hit this. Any thoughts? Also for those who have been following, I got the plugs changed, and the gas out, fired it up and it still smells awful rich and sputters about 800-900 rpms. Thoughts? Still running out some of the old gas? This is a 2006 with less than 200 miles on it as back info. BTW, the plugs were 11/16ths and the replacements were the 5/8ths listed in the 07 service manual. Thanks Gug | ||
| Davo |
Gugnheim, Did you pull the fuel drain plug when you emptied the tank? I would check all of your electrical connections and double check the spark plug wires at the coil. Battery terminals need to be checked as well. Check for trouble codes. The stripped thread is a small problem to fix. Are the bolts long enough to epoxy a nut behind the mounting hole? Keep us posted. | ||
| Gugnheim |
Davo- Thanks for the suggestions. As soon as its light enough I will check about the bolts. Off hand I'd say about a third of the bolt went in before it seized but I will doulble check that as well. As for the fuel plug, no I didn't - will do and also will for the connections, but I was getting good solid snapping feelings and sounds as the plug wire snapped on to the ends of the plugs. I will check the battery as well. I'd don't have a code reader, is there a way to check without one? Thanks Gug | ||
| Ejbeert |
mine did that sputtering after i picked it up from the dealer. all has been fine after i adjusted idle right after start up to about 1200 rpm. do not use the throttle to start. key on helmet on ride on. hope this helps | ||
| Ulynut |
You could also have water in your fuel. Pull that drain plug, and drain into a clear container to see if you have water in there. It might take a while for the water to separate from the fuel, but if its in there, you'll see it. This ethenol gas goes bad pretty quick, when it does the result is water in the tank.(dont ask me how, it just happens) | ||
| Davo |
I would case the threads with a tap very carefully if there are any threads left. Make sure you use some oil on the tap. If the threads are sloppy put some teflon tape on the bolt. In order to retrieve trouble codes w/o software: Get a short piece of 18 ga. wire about 12” long with two small insulated alligator clips. The manual uses part number 72191-94 (two of them) as end connectors instead of the alligator clips. Go to the data link connector that is located on the left side just under the edge of the seat. Remove the rubber insert. There are four pins inside. Looking at the connector with the locking hasp pointed down. The pin orientation is such that pin # 1 and pin #2 are both on your left. See below: #2 #3 #1 #4 lock With the key and ignition off, connect pin #1 and pin #2 with the home made jumper. Make sure you do not touch the other pins! Then turn the key and the ignition on. Do not start the bike. The engine light should start to flash: If it flashes many times (about 10 or 11, to fast to count for me) very fast, then there are NO trouble codes. Otherwise there will be 6 quick flashes at 3 per second and this is an intermission. Then there will be a 2 second pause Then count the number of one second flashes separated by 1 second pauses and this will be your first digit. Then there will be a 2 second pause Then count the number of one second flashes separated by 1 second pauses and this will be your second digit. Then there will be a 2 second pause Start back at intermission of 6 flashes…………..and so on…….. This will continue until you turn off the ignition and the key and remove the jumper. If you remove the jumper without turning off the ignition the engine light will continue to cycle trouble codes. If you have a trouble code and then you correct the problem that created the code. The bike will automatically clear the codes after 50 start and run sessions of at least 30 seconds or more. Until then the code will remain even if the problem is fixed. Trouble code list: 11-TPS 13- O2 sensor 14-ET (engine temp) 15-air intake temp 16-battery voltage 21-exhaust actuator 23-front injector 24-front coil 25-rear coil 32-rear injector 33-fuel pump 35-tach 36-fan 44-bank angle sensor 52, 53, 54, 55- ECM failure 56-cam sync. Failure Good luck. There is a more detailed account of this procedure in the shop manual. There is also flow charts to correct all of the fault conditions. This procedure has pulled codes that my VDSTS Pro USA did not pull. The VDSTS could clear them but it could not recognize all of them. I never leave home without my jumper wire, list of the codes, small box of fuses, electrical tape, and an extra relay. I hope this helps.! | ||
| Gugnheim |
Thanks gents. I will be one this Monday, and let you guys know how it comes out. Is there a suggestion on the size tap to use for those bolts? One other question, does anyone have a part number for the bolts for the fly screen and the air cover so I can order more? Thanks Gug | ||
| Stevenknapp |
I had to carefully retap one of those bolts. I can't remember the exact specs. If you don't have a tap/die set handy, just take a bolt to the hardware store, find the mating nut, and buy the tap in that size/pitch. I even do this when I can just to ensure I'm using the right size. Be VERY careful. If the material is really hosed, a helicoil (do they make them that small?) or even a small nut epoxied on the backside would work. I'd do all you can to avoid replacing that metal bracing the fly screen attaches to. | ||
| Etennuly |
I stripped the first third of one of those fly screen holes a while back. It is a 10-32 thread. I just took one out to check. They are a hard stainless bolt going into aluminum, so if your angle is a little off it happens. Take the screen back off before you tap it so that you can see the angle and the depth through the mount. There is plenty of material there, just make sure you start the tap at the correct original angle with oil on it. | ||
| Gugnheim |
Badwebbers- Once again thank you all for your generosity and time. I'll let you know how it goes, and if I can ever do anything for any one if they come through Cincy, let me know. Gug | ||
| Alchemy |
Well I just changed my plugs for the first time last night and it was a bit of a hassle. I used a pair of extra long bent needle-nose pliers from Sears to get the plug wires off. Got a 6" wobble extension (Sears) for my 3/8 drive sockets and that worked ok for the rear plug which was 5/8". There was a recommendation for a 5/8 ratcheting flex box wrench mentioned earlier and I got and it worked. I also pulled the lower air box as it seemed to be required particularly the first time and particularly as I was replacing the ignition wires which was a darn good idea in the case of the front one. I got replacement ignition cables from Magnecor for about $28. Buell cables are about $9 from HD - another Buell bargain. The idle adjustment cable was severely worn and I am not sure how to fix that really. I added some additional plastic tubing over the cable but I doubt it helps much. The front plug cable from the coil was worn deep enough to be showing some sort of white spots - possibly related to the conductor. This in 9.5 k miles. I get the feeling the front ignition cable will require changes every 10k unless some additional protection is worked up by someone or BMC. I added Iridium plugs and had to set the gap carefully as it was too open. Got it pretty close to 0.035. Added a little anti-seeze on the threads and some non-conductive lub on the plug boots. Finally, the struggle was to get the plug boots all the way down over the ceramic of the plugs. I pushed and pushed on the boots and tore them up a little with the needle-nose pliers but I "think" I got them down all the way. It is hard to see on the rear one. End result is that the cold engine stumbling I used to experience has substantially reduced. Engine seems to fire strong and may run a little better. The hassle aside, this has been a beneficial service item. The other item that made an improvement was adjust the clutch. It used to really clunk going into second and even grind a little. I kept playing with the adjustment and this has really been reduced and it shifts more smoothly |
