| Author | Message | ||
     Hooliken |
For those that also use heated gear. Are you running it from one of the Cigar plugs or straight from the battery? Thanks | ||
| Chrisb |
battery Make sure you use the lead that's supplied with the heated gear. Some of the Battery Tenders use the same plug however the battery tender supplied lead is a smaller guage wire and will get a little hot when the heated gear is turned on for a while. I've had both the HD/Gerbing gear and Warm n safe. The Warm n safe jacket is thin so it fits under any jacket. | ||
| Kc69xlch |
i have the gerbing. i hooked straight to batt. with inline fuse. the cigar lighters are only rated for 10amps. gear pulls more like 17 amps on high. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I put in a HID that is wired right to the battery, so I used the old headlight leads to wire the power for the heated grips. Working fine so far. (The Polly heated grips are great by the way). | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I used the same plug that the battery tender uses. It's fused. I have the Aerostitch gear. You can order it with whatever plug you want to use. Some use the quick connect. Others use the BMW connector. Anyone know what the rear cigarette lighter is rated at. Is it different than the front one since it's intended for heated gear use? | ||
| Kc69xlch |
they both run from the same fuse, a 10amp, accessory fuse so the total for both is 10 amps. if you run other devices from the front outlet, i would hard wire to batt with inline fuse of appropriate rating for your gear. gear is usually rated in watts. ampsxvolts=watts | ||
| Reepicheep |
Right, so a 10 amp fuse is good for like 130 watts of heat... at which point i assume you are trying to deep fry a turkey  | ||
| Kc69xlch |
130 watts is not that much heat. think 2 60 watt light bulbs trying to keep you warm riding in below freezing temps. my total draw for my complete suit( jacket, pants, gloves, and socks) is closer to 200 watts. remind me never to try one of your 130 watt deep fried turkeys.  | ||
| Kc69xlch |
175 watts to be exact. 77 jacket, 44 pants, 27 each for gloves and socks. 14.5 amps@12 v. i have a 20 amps fuse inline. although as of yet i haven't had the controller all the way up. only needed about 2/3 power back in feb. 07 during the ice storms. 600 mile round trip. avg. temp 25'. colder up on the brp.  | ||
| Snowscum |
So what good is that cigar plug? | ||
| Reepicheep |
I guess it's all in the insulation. Instead of thinking about 2 60 watt bulbs, I was thinking about 10 15 watt soldering irons. I would run out of places to put them | ||
| Pso |
The cigar plug is good for my bar mounted GPS/XM/Weather Garmin 376C | ||
| Bearly |
I use the supplied connector that Widder recommends to attach to the battery for all my Widder gear (vest, arm chaps, leg chaps and gloves). Connector has a fuse. Works great down to about 20°f. | ||
| New12r |
Using the Gerbing vest and gloves, wired straight to the battery with supplied wires and fuse. Nice and warm!! | ||
| Kc69xlch |
never seen a 15 watt 12volt soldering iron before. but that would probably keep 10 spots the size of dimes burning hot on your body leaving the other 1000's of spots frigid and shivering  | ||
| Adrian_8 |
I have used the front plug for my Gerbing jacket and gloves for almost two years with no problem. I first tried the battery tender plug and it immediately blew the 3 amp fuse. NO probs with the cigarette plug for both gloves (G3) and full jacket. | ||
| Jmhinkle |
I ran the fused power wire directly to the battery and it sticks out right where the ECM connector is. I use the Harley/Gerbing jacket and gloves with the dual controller setup. Extremely convenient to plug/unplug in that location. I have used my rear lighter plug to charge my cell phone, but the front has never been used. It does supply power to polly grips and Autoswitch for PIAA 510's though. | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
I have one of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-MENS-ROCKY-HEATED-HUNTING- VEST-FLEECE-CAMO-XL_W0QQitemZ180155518432QQcmdZVie wItem It'll work with batteries or a cigarette lighter outlet. I changed it to a battery tender plug so I could use it on all my bikes. It is nice because it has polymer heating panels instead of wire heating elements. It provides nice evenly distributed warmth. They are hard to find. I'd suggest jumping on this one, it's a steal. | ||
| Dust_buster |
I Installed my heated grips by using the same circut as the assy. plug and it works fine. When I decided to add a heated jacket liner I purchased a warm-n-safe and also got thier heat-trollers for both the grips and the liner (grips were too hot) it was recomended that the liner be wired directly to the battery. | ||
| Hooliken |
So many choices. I also run a GPS from my front plug so was thinking about running my gear from the rear. But if they are both running off the same fuse (could of looked at my service manual for that one) I will go ahead and throw a pigtail on the battery. Need to anyway for my battery charger. Thanks for the input. | ||
| Jackbequick |
If you want to "safe" yourself against an accidental battery drain by leaving something on, put a 30A relay in between the battery and the jacket, grips, and any other loads. Take the "pull in" or relay on voltage from your accessory circuit (light guage wire, 18-24 ga. is fine) and that way the relay will be connected to the battery when the ignition is turned to the first position and it stays on in run too of course. The positive leg between the battery and into the relay has a 20 Amp inline fuse, that can be upsized to 30 Amp if I want to use the full capacity of the relay. The relay switches only the positive lead from the battery, not both the positive and negative leads. That seems to confuse some people. You take the load from that positive lead and then ground it (to the frame or another black wire) on the other side of the load. Connect all loads to the 12V supply from the relay. Use 14 Gauge wire from the battery to the relay as that will handle a 32 Amp load. On the output side of the relay, use multiple spade terminals, SAE connectors, or whatever to connect the loads. The ground side of the pair that goes into my tank bag is connected to the bolt on the frame where the battery black (-) cable connects. Use an appropriately sized wire for each load and have an inline fuse on each load. There is no problem with connecting any number of devices to the output from the 30A relay, you just need to keep track of the maximum load of all the pieces and not exceed the capacity of the relay or it's fuse. On my FXD I have a marine grade 14 Ga. sheathed pair that goes into my tank bag. Inside the tank bag are three SAE connectors siamesed off of the 14 ga. wire and I can attach different bits and pieces from a collection of cigar lighter sockets and other connectors. The Dyna does not have a fairing or other convenient location to house the "load center", that is why I use the Cortech Mini-Mag tank bag for that. For the electric liner for my Aerostich, I have the BMW style socket with a SAE connector on it. The whole deal is that if any one piece of it blows it's fuse I don't lose it all and nothing lets the smoke out of the wires. And if I get too much load on the relay, the 20A fuse on the run into the relay will blow. Jack | ||
| Kc69xlch |
sounds like a very good setup you have there jack. i like the way you use the relay to isolate the circuits. nice write-up.  |
