| Author | Message | ||
     Pso |
I used the search function but could not find the post I was looking for. Someone had posted how to change the drive belt along side the road. Could someone pointed me that post please? | ||
| Dr_greg |
I just got a spare belt and am wondering the same thing...although I can probably figure it out. | ||
| Teeps |
Short story without blow by blow details: Remove right side foot peg bracket. Remove belt guards, from swing arm. Remove axle pinch bolt, then unwind the rear axle 15 turns. Remove the swing arm access section. Swap out the belt. Reverse order to assemble. Do not over torque the axle. made correction to dissassembly order I'm reasonably sure the belt will come off without removing the jocky wheel. Maybe someone is changeing a tire and will confirm whether this is the case or not. (Message edited by teeps on August 25, 2007) | ||
| Xbimmer |
You're gonna need more tools than the stock set... | ||
| Kc69xlch |
teeps forgot the part about removing the tensioner wheel. this is done after loosening axle bolt. upon assembly, before reinstalling tensioner wheel assembly you should seat the belt by squeezing the belt together top to bottom. tighten axle bolt to 23-27 ft/lbs then back off two full turns, then torque to 48-52 ft/lbs. tighten pinch bolt to 40-45ft/lbs. be sure to reinstall swingarm brace and torque to 25-27ft/lbs before tightening axle bolts. good luck. | ||
| S_palmer |
Seems to me I read that the swing arm access section should not be removed until the rear axle is unwound and the belt tension is relieved. Can anyone shed some light on this, I could have been dreaming. | ||
| Kc69xlch |
according to the factory manual the brace is removed after axle is loosened and tensioner removed. reinstalled first then tensioner then axle tightened. torque for tensioner nuts is 30-35 ft/lbs. | ||
| Jlnance |
teeps forgot the part about removing the tensioner wheel. That is part of the procedure in the service manual, but you can get the belt on w/o taking the tensioner off. | ||
| Gotj |
If you have side bags, you will have to unbolt the rack from the footpeg bracket too. May involve another tool. | ||
| Kc69xlch |
i doubt you can replace the belt without the removal of the tension wheel. that is if you don't want to buggar up your new belt. probably one of the easier steps, not one i would omit. | ||
| Jlnance |
kc69xlch - I replaced the belt the last time I changed the rear tire. Perhaps it was because I had the wheel removed, but there really was plenty of room to work. Having the idler pulley on wasn't a problem. | ||
| Kc69xlch |
jlnance -the procedure outlined in this thread is for changing the belt without removing the tire. i am sure with the tire removed it wasn't necessary to remove the tension wheel. but it would be quite difficult with the tire in place. i haven't had the need to replace either tire or belt with 6.5k miles on mine. i think i may get 10k out of the tire. i obviously don't ride nearly as hard as lots of the guys on here. belt may last the life of the bike, at least thats what buell says.  | ||
| Jmhinkle |
If your axle loosens as it should not as mine did, you should not need to remove the pulley at all with the tire on or off. Loosening the axle the 15 turns relieves all the pressure on the belt and it will slip off the wheel pulley no problem and through the cutouts that are removed. Teeps order should work just fine, with the exception of having the side case rack installed if you do. You will have to remove 1 extra bolt in that case. | ||
| Kc69xlch |
it is worth spending the extra 30 seconds to remove the wheel and bracket. | ||
| Jmhinkle |
"it is worth spending the extra 30 seconds to remove the wheel and bracket." Not when you are on the side of the road with no lift as this thread was originally asking. | ||
| Kc69xlch |
let me know how that works out for ya!  | ||
| Xbimmer |
Kc69xlch maybe hasn't actually done a rear wheel r/r or belt r/r and probably doesn't realize the possibility of inaccuracies in the OFSM.  Those of us with repeat experience with the procedures actually required (for me 6 rear tires and 2 belts in 33k) know that NO the pulley does not need to be removed and everything r/r's just fine. Four of those tires were rolling with the original belt and no the belt didn't vaporize because I never removed the pulley bracket to remove a wheel, I changed it at 25k because it was 1 year old as pm. My only addition to Teeps' procedure is that the removal of the r/s footpegs bracket is more than simple with the sidecase brackets installed. It is virtually impossible to reattach the forward bracket bolt to the footpegs bracket on the r/s until ALL of the sidecase bracket bolts have been loosened on l/s and r/s. Once everything has a couple threads restarted it can all be buttoned back up. Even then the r/s case can contact the r/s passenger peg. All that is point moot when all you want to do is get rolling again with a new belt in place. My earlier post about more tools required, the swingarm brace that needs to be r/r on my bike was VERY securely fastened when I removed it the first time. Clearance is limited so now a 6" hex wrench is in my tool bag for that purpose. The rear axle pinch bolt when properly torqued is very tough to remove with short wrenches roadside, don't even try the axle without something substantial to grasp the Buell axle removal tool. For breaking and tightening the axles I use the Buell tool and a clamping crescent-type wrench I got from Pep Boys. I accept that a broken belt roadside with my Uly will be more difficult to repair than a KTM or Tiger with a broken chain (does that even happen?) but simpler than a driveline failure with a GS. When I tour I carry the stuff and it'll be no biggie if it happens. Kc69 I don't think you need to worry anyway, if you're gonna get 10k on your first rear tire then your belt should last 100k at least...... | ||
| Gotj |
"My only addition to Teeps' procedure is that the removal of the r/s footpegs bracket is more than simple with the sidecase brackets installed. It is virtually impossible to reattach the forward bracket bolt to the footpegs bracket on the r/s until ALL of the sidecase bracket bolts have been loosened on l/s and r/s." I'm confused; "more than simple" reads "simpler" to me (as in, "removal of the r/s footpegs bracket is simpler with the sidecase brackets installed") but the rest of the paragraph says "much harder". Would you mind clarifying? | ||
| Bertotti |
You must of had a rack system from hell to put on. Mine virtually bolted right up. I didn't really have to force anything any more then expected. | ||
| Teeps |
Xbimmer Posted on Sunday, August 26, 2007 Kc69xlch maybe hasn't actually done a rear wheel r/r or belt r/r and probably doesn't realize the possibility of inaccuracies in the OFSM. I suspect he's just being cautious. I accept that a broken belt roadside with my Uly will be more difficult to repair than a KTM or Tiger with a broken chain (does that even happen?) Only if the chain doesn't wad itself up and take out the engine/transmission case. | ||
| Kc69xlch |
xbimmer, have all your belt replacements occurred while replacing or removing tire? just wondering for future reference. because i have not replaced my belt, but have read threads on this site referring to belt replacement with tire in place. most, if not all of those who posted trying to do this said they had trouble getting a new... unstretched belt on the bike with the tire on. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Next time I need to remove the rear wheel for whatever reason I'm going to replace one of the idler pulley studs with a bolt. From then on I'll just be able to loosen the one nut on the remaining stud and remove the one bolt and just swing the idler out of the way. They should of set it up like that in the first place. | ||
| Kickastro |
Any tips in particular for not having a swing arm stand or lift? I will be attempting the belt replacement this week with the bike on its' side stand. I just snapped mine practicing clutch wheelies with 27K on the clock. Oh well, lesson learned, only power wheelies from here on. Cheers! | ||
| Froggy |
Kickastro, the wheel doesn't even need to come off the ground, I've done belt replacements on the side of the road before. The steps Teeps posted above are correct. Remember, you are loosening the axle, not totally removing it, so no need to do anything more fancy than the sidestand. |
