| Author | Message | ||
     Xb12lp |
I took off the primary cover off last weekend and found my primary sprocket loose. The engine was making the noted marble noise, but re-torqued the nut after cleaning. The engine sounds great now. I could move the sprocket back and forth by hand before I loosened the nut. Glad I checked. | ||
| Jameslaugesen |
Ooo, thanks for the heads-up. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Xb12lp, I went out and got a new primary cover gasket and gear oil so that I could get in the primary and verify that everything is tight and normal. I also stopped and asked the Buell mechanic what damage a loose sprocket would cause and they said it would trash the crankshaft. If I were you I'd be letting your dealer know what you found because there may already be damage (hopefully not). I told the service folks that if I found any loose nuts or sprocket I would be talking to them on the phone about it. Well it's time to take a look-see. | ||
| Teeps |
How many miles? | ||
| Mike_dinger |
I'm dropping mine off at the dealer on Saturday, because, I kinda think my engine has been sounding a little crappy lately. If I ask them to check the primary sprocket, do you think they will charge me, or would it be covered under warranty? | ||
| Thunderbox |
If they find it loose they will cover it under warranty. If it's tight you will get a bill. Can't blame them for that | ||
| Mike_dinger |
No, can't blame them at all. Hopefully the mech would able to tell from listening. | ||
| Atoms |
Marble noise? | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I just got done putting my primary cover back on, filled it with lube, adjusted the clutch and chain. Anyways it was a bunch of work but now I don't have to worry about it anymore. The crank nut on the primary sprocket was tight ( thank God ). The directions for removing the clutch ramp and hook are vague to say the least and I had to call the dealer and talk to a Buell mechanic. To remove the ramp you have to turn the clutch adjusting screw to back out the nut that it's threaded into. Primary cover won't come off without removing the ramp and hook. The hook part is what holds the clutch cable end. Mike Dinger, I can't see them doing all that work without charging you plenty. Unless it's loose of course and then you have to ask yourself if the mechanic can be trusted to do the right thing. Dillon Brothers told me that a loose primary sprocket damages the crank and that certainly makes sense to me. Just tightening it up ( if it is loose ) and hoping for the best is not right. It may quiet things down but that doesn't me terrible damage hasn't already taken place. Ya gotta wonder if a Buell production worker set the torque wrench to inch-lbs instead of ft-lbs for a shift or two. One other thing the Buell mechanic gave me a good heads up on. To make sure you don't fold or rip the new primary cover gasket do this: get about six 3" 1/4-20 screws and cut the heads off so you have 3" studs that you screw into six of the eleven primary holes on the engine. Then use these studs to guide on you new gasket and then guide on the primary cover. Your gasket will be exactly where it should be without any fold overs or rips. I bought a 3 ft section of 1/4-20 threaded rod for less than a buck and a half and cut it up for this purpose. Here's a picture of what I'm writing about but realize that I had to shorted these guide studs down to 3" because the clutch cable kept me from being able to pull the primary out far enough to guide it on. After I shortened them it guided right on.  | ||
| Xb12lp |
I hope everything is going to hold up. The engine is so quiet now and running smooth. If it gets loose again, than it's time to take it to the dealer. For now I will be putting miles on it, the season is short in N.J. I have about 3400 miles on it now since I bought it in June, Love the bike hate to think about engine work. | ||
| Teeps |
Electraglider_1997 Posted on Thursday, August 23, 2007 One other thing the Buell mechanic gave me a good heads up on. To make sure you don't fold or rip the new primary cover gasket do this: <snip> use these studs to guide on you new gasket and then guide on the primary cover. Your gasket will be exactly where it should be without any fold overs or rips. Or use gasga-cinch to hold the gasket in place. http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetai l.cfm?ProductModelId=9652 | ||
| Mike_dinger |
Got my bike back on Sunday. They charged me $50.52 for labor. I haven't spoken to the service dept. about what they did to the bike, other than the cable because they were closed Sun-Mon. I will call today to find out what work was performed. I would imagine that for $50 in labor, which isn't much, that the yanked the primary cover and made some adjustments. She is running great now! | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Teeps that stuff looks good but the way I show in the above photo guarantees that the gasket stays put and is "exactly" where it should be when all is said and done. After the primary is bolted down then you replace one stud at a time with it's proper socket head cap screw. | ||
| Teeps |
Electraglider_1997 Posted on Tuesday, August 28, 2007 - 03:19 pm: Teeps that stuff looks good but the way I show in the above photo guarantees that the gasket stays put and is "exactly" where it should be when all is said and done. After the primary is bolted down then you replace one stud at a time with it's proper socket head cap screw. I totally agree your way is 99.9% fool proof. I'm just saying Gasga-Cinch works and is faster. I've used it for 40 years without a single slipped gasket. Maybe Buell(Harley) gaskets are slipperyer, I don't know. I hope to never need to find out. | ||
| Kc69xlch |
i would say a combination of both the studs and gasga cinch would make for the soundest seal |
