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Lorazepam
| | Posted on Saturday, July 14, 2007 - 11:37 pm: | 
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My bearings were killed by moisture. They were replaced today, and showed evidence of rust. They felt like they had sand in them after I removed the wheel, and the inner race was "floppy" on both.
The spacer was fine, it wasnt distorted or worn. Glad I caught them before they caused any real damage.
I am so happy to have it back on the road. |
Bertotti
| | Posted on Sunday, July 15, 2007 - 09:11 am: |
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Michael1 when you find a good replacement bearing for more protection let us know. I know I'll need it. I love cruising off road, I'm just not to good at but hey can't let silly little things like that stop you. |
Teeps
| | Posted on Sunday, July 15, 2007 - 11:10 am: |
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While at American Sport Bike yesterday, I spoke to Al about wheel bearings.
He told me, that since the wheel bearing recall (other XB model), he only sells OEM (Buell) supplied wheel bearings.
He was concerned about the quality and tolerances of bearings not tested or spec'd by Buell. I understand his concern, given that wheel bearing failure could end very badly... |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Monday, July 16, 2007 - 07:46 am: |
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One minor clarification.
I only sell OEM bearings for the XB series, because I could not conclusively determine the change that was made from the recalled bearings used on the XB to the new ones. I dug for a while, could not get a straight answer on either the fit class and seal materials, and did not want to duplicate the problem that Buell was compelled to recall.
But for tubers, I sell quality aftermarket bearings, sourced from either the US or Japan.
Al |
Hughlysses
| | Posted on Monday, July 16, 2007 - 08:27 am: |
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You know, we've got two guys here with a bearing design background (Michael1 and Husky). Seems like with some help from them, we could figure out a specific bearing manufacturer and part number that would be a significant improvement over the OEM bearings (for Uly applications at least).
Husky, would it be possible for someone (Al for instance) to do a special order for a reasonable quantity of factory-packed bearings like you describe above? It'd be awfully nice to be able to use a superior off-the-shelf bearing if/when we need to change our wheel bearings. |
Husky
| | Posted on Monday, July 16, 2007 - 01:04 pm: |
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Just about any change in a current bearing production configuration such as different seals, or lubricant is possible to get if the change is something the factory already has listed in their literature. The problem is the minimum quantity you would be willing to order up front.
The NTN bearing in my previous post is a very high quality bearing, with excellent material selection and processing. The seal is a double lip design. The seal I recommended (LLUA1) is a better material than the standard seal material you would get is you just listed "LLU" in the part number.
I did not research NTN's list of available lubricants to evaluate them for the ULY application.
If you could not get the bearing with the better seals and lubricant included you could probably purchase the seals separately and take it upon yourself (or Al's self as a parts dealer) to change them over and put in your lubricant of choice.
Someone mentioned in a earlier post that Buell has had a recall on wheel bearings. If this is so, then maybe Buell has already improved the bearing seals and lubricant as best as practical without modifying the hub designs.
The problem with the ULY wheel design has already been pointed out by several posters. Buell did not include an additional pair of off road type seals on the wheels like all of the dirt bikes have. These seals are the primary barrier to dirt and water and are easily removed and cleaned, protecting the bearings.
BUT even so, if you ride your dirt bike in streams and/or use a pressure washer to clean the mud and dirt off after rides, you will overpower the seals and should pull the wheels and outer seals for a look see. This is common dirt bike sense and applies to steering head, and swing arm bearings.
There may not be sufficient material available in the existing Uly wheel hub designs to do the machining necessary to be able to install an additional pair of seals.
I'm sure that Buell could modify the design so future wheels included outer seals.
Regards,
Husky |
Hughlysses
| | Posted on Monday, July 16, 2007 - 01:49 pm: |
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Someone mentioned in a earlier post that Buell has had a recall on wheel bearings. If this is so, then maybe Buell has already improved the bearing seals and lubricant as best as practical without modifying the hub designs.
Husky,
The early XB's (I believe it was only the 2003 models) had a recall on wheel bearings. Here's a PDF of the recall notice:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/B051A-263597.pdf |
Michael1
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2007 - 11:41 am: |
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With working for a brg mfg, it's tough that if they currently do NOT have production of certain seal, it is very tough to get it made for a decent price and low enough quanity. If we (as Buell owners) wanted to get together and get a run on bearings, I'm sure the minimum quanity would be well over 1000 pcs. I know I declined requests similar when I worked there. It all about economics and production costs.
As Husky has stated, I'm sure the NTN's would be the best bet as they use those in other applications (powersports, ag, etc...) On my sales calls next week to the big bearing houses, I'll ask and see if any have stock in their distribution centers.
I haven't pulled my wheel yet, but when I change my tire out, I will and see if there's some room for a secondrary seal back there. It'll be tough to try and retrofit a seal. To make it truely right, the bearing housing needs to have more depth (maybe an extra 10~15mm) to add a secondary seal on the outside. Shorten the spacer. But this would force a whole new wheel. And I'm sure that's not in the cards cost wise, unless the change is across the board. But the good thing is, it should be retro to all XB's. Now if we could get Buell engineering on board. I'd gladly pay an extra $50 in MSRP for this fix and how ever much it would be through Buell parts. |
Lorazepam
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2007 - 05:52 pm: |
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The only way I see to keep this from happening to me again is to not ride in the rain, and avoid getting water on the bearings when I wash the bike.
One I can control, the other I cant, if I want to go any distance on the bike. |
Etennuly
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2007 - 07:17 pm: |
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I found out that putting too much Antiseze on the axle shaft will allow it to flow out over the seals over time. This made a tough to remove water-proof coating over the seals.
I just replaced my rear tire and I will be smearing a coat of the stuff over the outside of the bearing seals as I put the wheel back on.
Try it. It is almost free, easy to do, easy to monitor, and the longer it is on the tougher it gets. You can pressure wash around it and it will not come off. |
Xbimmer
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2007 - 09:17 pm: |
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You might have something there Etennuly.
In 30k miles I'm the only one other than the factory who's removed my wheels. I've torqued to spec every time and slathered the axles with antiseize.
Since this issue has come up I've been concerned and each time I've removed the wheels I've checked the bearings. No looseness or anything other than smooth action, and plenty of antiseize in and around the bearing races.
Can't be that simple, can it? |
Etennuly
| | Posted on Friday, July 20, 2007 - 01:36 pm: |
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I'm thinking it can be. At 18,000 miles I just put a new rear tire on, and before doing so I figured I'd have a look. I pulled out the outer seal from the right and left bearings and there was perfectly clean blue grease on the bearing retainer. I put a small amount of Hi temp wheel bearing grease in the retainer area of the bearing, just enough that it would have a reserve if it were to get hot enough.
I pushed the seal back in carefully getting the seal set all around. Then I coated the outside with anti-seze and reinstalled the wheel. I am now comfortable about my rear wheel bearings and I won't worry about them again until the next rear tire goes on.
Just to note, I do ride in the rain, but I do not ride the Uly on dirt roads often, and it has never been off road. I have dirt bikes and Jeeps that have seen many bearings fail over the years because of mud, water, and grit. When I put those back together from now on I think I will coat their seals with the anti-sieze also. |
Electraglider_1997
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 24, 2007 - 09:47 am: |
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I took my rear wheel off the bike last evening and changed the tire with the help of a motorcycle mechanic MSF instructor pal that owns a NO-MAR and fancy balancer. Everything was hunkydorry except for the bearings. Both are very hard to turn and notchy. I've only got a bit over 7,000 miles on the bike and never wash it at the high pressure joints. A few gravel roads and a few rain storms. I would expect them to turn nice and easy with the few miles on them. Anyways, my bike is clogging up my friends garage who already has 5 other bikes in there. I'm taking the rear wheel out to the dealer to have them take a look-see. Oh yeah, I sure wish Buell would have coated that axle with anti-seize because it sure looked coated with whitish corrosion and that is unnecessary in my opinion. The idler pulley bearing was smooth and easy turning so I'm happy about that. The belt was pristine looking. We mounted the D616 which I have had no complaints about and probably because I'm not a track-day guy. |
Adrian_8
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 24, 2007 - 10:41 am: |
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The wheel bearings on the rear seem to prone to rust and corrosion...some of the problem might be caused by over tightening and stressing the seals..even the factory specs might be a little too much..could be for liability reasons...better a short bearing life than a wheel coming loose. They are easy to change and can be found at any good bearing distributor. |
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