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Andrejs2112
Posted on Wednesday, June 20, 2007 - 08:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just had my 1K mile service done on My 06 Uly. Now the idle seems low. The bike will now stall sometimes, even when warm. Not bad though. I put on the 07 airbox with a K&N filter. The dealer said they would update the bike with 07 codes. Can I tell if they did? Can I adjust the idle without a problem?

Thanks
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Hughlysses
Posted on Wednesday, June 20, 2007 - 08:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Techs used to working on Harleys are notorious for setting the idle too low. Low idle can cause the stalling you describe. It should be around 1100 RPM and it's easy to adjust.
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Andrejs2112
Posted on Wednesday, June 20, 2007 - 08:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks. I didn't know if adjusting the idle would have an adverse effect on something else to do with the way the bike ran.
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Packdog
Posted on Thursday, June 21, 2007 - 01:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The idle adjustment is performed AFTER the TPS reset, so adjusting the idle doesn't change any of the adjustments. You're safe to change the idle whenever you want.
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Andrejs2112
Posted on Friday, June 22, 2007 - 08:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, I adjusted the idle to about 1100 rpm while the engine was warmed up after a 10 minute ride to work. I then started it after work to go home. The idle was just under 1000 rpm. It stalled a few times while warming it up. After about five minutes of riding and slowing to stop, the idle kicked up to about 2200 rpm and then slowly went down to 1000 rpm. I revved the engine and the idle stayed at about 2200 rpm for about 2-3 seconds and then kicked back down to about 1000 rpm again. Any ideas on what's going on? The idle was set low at the dealer after the 1k mile service. Does the TPS need to be reset? Oh yeah, it seems to shake more than normal.

Thanks

(Message edited by andrejs2112 on June 22, 2007)
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Florida_lime
Posted on Friday, June 22, 2007 - 08:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My idle will do that if I am stuck in REALLY heavy stop and go traffic for a few minutes, but seems to be fine once you get the chance to ride normally. I figured it was a temperature issue, but I have not endured any similar conditions since my 1000 mile services/TPM reset, so I do not know if that helped.
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Andrejs2112
Posted on Friday, June 22, 2007 - 08:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I should say that the bike ran fine for about 300 miles AFTER the service. The idle was low, that's it. It wasn't until after I adjusted the idle that it started acting strange. All I did was turn the adjuster knob.
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Snowscum
Posted on Saturday, June 23, 2007 - 12:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

TPS reset wasnt done properly.
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Etennuly
Posted on Saturday, June 23, 2007 - 12:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This idle "float down" from 2000 rpm is caused by raising the idle too high. There were many threads on this subject last summer. Try setting the idle speed between 1000 and 1050. It will fix the float down to idle deal.
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Andrejs2112
Posted on Saturday, June 23, 2007 - 05:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Etennuly,
I turned the idle down to about 1000 rpm. I wonder if it takes a little bit for the bike to adjust itself to the new setting. I read the past posts on this subject. It sounds like the bike is just touchy to changing idle settings.
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Snowscum
Posted on Saturday, June 23, 2007 - 08:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I mis-spoke. When my idle was acting like that it was a intake leak.
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Packdog
Posted on Saturday, June 23, 2007 - 08:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I can't remember what thread it is in, but there is a "learning" procedure for the ECM. I think it has to do with the ECM learning the AFV.

I think the way to do it is to ride at a steady 3,000 rpm for 3 minutes.
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Andrejs2112
Posted on Saturday, June 23, 2007 - 08:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think it may have resolved itself this am on the way to work. The RPM's still hang a little though. I'll keep an eye on it.
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Andrejs2112
Posted on Saturday, June 23, 2007 - 07:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, the problem is still there. On my way home from work, the idle stayed at about 2200 rpm at stops and wouldn't kick down to 1000. It idled at about 1000 when cold and about 8 minutes into the ride, it started creeping up to 2200 at stops. I adjusted the idle before shutting it off at home. I set it at 1100. Where exactly should I spray the WD-40? I should also add that I initially adjusted the idle while cold. I think that's how this started.

Thanks,
AR

(Message edited by andrejs2112 on June 23, 2007)
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Packdog
Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 12:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm running a stock 06 uly, so take what I am going to say with a bit of salt (07 intake cover and ECM upgrade salt!).

I have seen a lot of oddball problems go away with just a simple reset of the TPS.

It could be that the throttle wasn't fully shut at the time of the dealer reset. Or possibly the bike had cooled down enough that it was enough to effect the resistance of the TPS.

For instance, if I reset my TPS while the bike is cold, it runs really rough and crappy, surges and is quite simply annoying. Yet when I reset it while warm or hot, it runs great. Fortunately I have the software to reset the TPS, so I have been able to play around and experiment with differing conditions on my bike.

If at all possible, I think you should start over with a TPS reset and see if you still have the problems.

Since the dealer set the idle too low, it sounds like one of the less experienced technicians worked on it and just treated it like a sportster.
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Andrejs2112
Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 06:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm hesitant to do a TPS reset because my dealer is 300 miles away and I haven't gotten the stuff to do it myself yet. The bike ran great for over 200 miles after the dealer service until I touched it. I tinkered with the idle while it was cold and that may be why the idle hangs around 2000 rpm. I may just need to play with the idle and see if the problem goes away. I'm just working my way through all other ideas. Thanks for listening.
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Davo
Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 06:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Andre,
Adjusting the idle would not cause the problem. I recommend that you make sure that the battery terminals are both tight and then go for a five minute ride after the engine is at operating temperature. Proceed in fifth gear at 50-55 mph. Try not to move the throttle at all during this period. Find a straight level road and ride it like grandma would. The ECM thinks you are going rich when you approach hot idle. You are experiencing this floating idle during open loop operation. The ECM needs to learn a new AFV. If you had a intake leak the bike would be pinging so you can rule that out. If the battery terminals are tight I would then check the spark wires for good connection. The problem should not be too deep because it sounds like your servicing people stayed near the surface. Think about getting TR's VDSTS standard for Buell from American sportbike unless you can find someone near by that has one. I would not own one of these bikes without one.
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Oldnotbold
Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 06:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Andre,

The first time that I did the TPS reset on my Uly, it did the same thing as yours. I went back and reset it again, carefully reading the instructions again as I did it. After letting the engine warm up to 320 degrees fahrenheit, and adjusting the idle to as close to 1050 RPM as possible, it was fine.

As others have indicated, the TPS adjustment is critical for proper FI operation.
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Andrejs2112
Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 07:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for all of your input! It's nice to know you have support out there. BTW, I didn't do a TPS reset. All I did was adjust the idle and it went to shit. I checked the plug wires and battery terminals...all good as far as I can tell.
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Oldnotbold
Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 07:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

TPS reset is supposed to be part of the 1K service. It could have been done wrong? Maybe someone in your area has the tool/software to check it for you?

Dennis
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Andrejs2112
Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 08:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It wasn't done wrong. It ran like a top after the service for over 200 miles...then I dicked with it. I'm going to get the computer interface thingy from Al at American Sport Bike as soon as I get more spendin' cash. I should have put off buying the new boots and tank bag. Anyway, the bike runs excellent, always has, except for the idle hanging. It's just annoying. Maybe if I ignore it like everything else, it will go away: )
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Davo
Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 08:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Andre,
Did you try doing the 5 minute ride to learn a new AFV?

(Message edited by davo on June 24, 2007)
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Andrejs2112
Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 08:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Didn't get a chance yet. I'll do it in the am. 50 mph 5th gear, 5 minutes at a constant rpm? What is AFV?

(Message edited by andrejs2112 on June 24, 2007)

(Message edited by andrejs2112 on June 24, 2007)
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Davo
Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 09:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Adaptive fuel value" It is a value that is determined during closed loop operation which is mid range and cruise. During high end and idle the ECM does not make constant adjustments to the air fuel mixture. This is called open loop operation and it uses a predetermined formula that determines a map based on a learned factor, AFV. The factory preset is 100 but this value changes based on many external conditions. An AFV over 100 indicates that the engine has been on the lean side and therefor the ECM adjusts to make the open loop operation a little richer. If it is less than 100 then the engine is has been a little rich so the adjustment is to lean out open loop. The ideal air to fuel ratio is 14.7 to 1. It is my opinion that if you adjusted the idle when cold then the hot idle was higher and the ECM interpreted a lean condition when the engine operated over 1500 rpm. When you adjust the throttle you are only adjusting air input. The ECM then determines how much fuel to add to the air. If the TPS is not set correctly or there are any poor electrical connections then there will be ill effects. The O2 input voltage is based on a full scale of only 1 volt. 0-.5 vs. .5-1. One half volt for rich and one half volt for lean. On a 12 volt DC electrical system any poor connections create voltage drop. A sub system dealing with only 1 volt is hyper sensitive to loose or corroded connections. The O2 wire is extremely vulnerable and any poor grounds will create problems as well. VDSTS will read AFV and Do TPS resets as well as AFV resets for diagnostic procedures. Keep Badweb posted and your problem will go away.

(Message edited by davo on June 24, 2007)
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Etennuly
Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 10:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Always have the engine at full warmed up temperature before adjusting the idle. 1100 is still too high. They are very sensitive to that base idle speed. Mine works fine at 1000 rpm warm idle.

If that is all you changed....change it back. Below 1000 too low, above 1050 too high.
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Andrejs2112
Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2007 - 09:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well the problem is solved. Thanks to all of you for helping me out. I went out the other morning and went down the longest straightest road on the way to work (sort of) and ran it at 55 mph/2500 rpm for about 3 miles. Problem still there. The next stretch later on was about 2.5 miles and I ran it the same as before. When I went to slow to make a turn the idle never dropped below 2000. I thought oh great, more trouble. When I got to work it was still idling at 2000 , I left it running and turned the idle down to 1000 or so. The problem went away and has not returned after two days. Would a TPS reset have taken care of the issue if instead of the procedure that I did to cure it?

Thanks again and I hope this thread helps someone else.
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Davo
Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2007 - 09:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The only way to correct a out of sync TPS is to reset it. If the problem cleared without a TPS reset then it wasn't the TPS. Glad to hear about your success. I believe it was a combination of idle mis- adjustment and the need to get the AFV to learn. I know the way most people ride Buells that the AFV doesn't get much of a chance to learn. The bike is so fun to ride that the throttle doesn't stay still for long.
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Snowscum
Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2007 - 10:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I think back that is exactly how mine was running. I do remember now that a inproper tps was the culprit at my 1000 mile service. The lady tech did a few things wrong and it ended back there the next day getting it back to normal. But like you said the idle would hang like the float was stuck.
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