| Author | Message | ||
     Fast_eddie_1956 |
I know, it's the old oil thread. I'm going to do the scheduled maintenance myself. I've used BMW oils for my R1200GS until 15K and then switched to synthetic. I'm getting ready to do the first oil change on the Uly so besides HD filters and oil what filters fit the Uly and what oils have been used? Any tricks to the Uly oil change? Seems pretty straight forward. I'm getting ready to take of the exhaust to send off to Drummer so I figure I'll do the oil change at the same time. How about transmission fluid? I still have a quart of HD sport transmission fluid but does anything else work? | ||
| Hughlysses |
Several manufacturers make air-cooled V-twin specific 20W-50 synthetics: HD Syn 3, Mobil 1 V-Twin, I think Royal Purple makes one, and there are others. Quite a few XB riders use the Mobil 1 15W-50 automotive synthetic which is much cheaper than their motorcycle specific oil and it seems to work well. I think the general opinion here is to switch to synthetic at some point between 1000 and 5000 miles and use whichever one you like. The main tricks to changing the oil are (1) Don't over-torque the oil plug. Several folks have stripped theirs by torquing it to the factory recommendation. Snug is sufficient. (2) Pre-fill the oil filter as stated in your owner's manual or it may take a LONG time for your oil light to go out afterwards. IMHO use HD Formula+ in the tranny. It was supposedly developed specifically for the 06-up lower effort clutch and new transmission gears. It's easy to find and works well. | ||
| Birdmanrh |
Is there a good online source for filters? And, is there a crush washer? | ||
| Hughlysses |
I don't know of one, unless you use the one by K&N. Lots of XB riders use the Walmart brand equivalent filter (I believe it's the same as a Toyota) and they swear it's identical (same manufacturer even). There's no crush washer, but there is an o-ring on the plug and you're supposed to use teflon sealant compound on the threads as well. I've reused the o-ring without problems; some people replace it every time. Since the o-ring is more than sufficient to seal oil-tight, the sealant evidently acts as a low-strength thread locker. Several Uly riders leave it off without problems. | ||
| Iugradmark |
Where can you order the K&N filter and which number is it? Thanks | ||
| Hughlysses |
According to K&N's website, it's a KN-177. You can buy directly from K&N here: http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod= KN-177 I'm sure you can also buy oil filters on-line from American Sport Bike or other BadWeb sponsors as well. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
While you're at it, I was wondering which religion is best. | ||
| Jmhinkle |
I am my own god so obviously my religion is best!! Seriously though, I use the K&N filter because I don't like how flimsy the Buell filter case is and the nut on the bottom is much easier to deal with than finding yet another oil filter wrench size. I buy mine a couple at a time on Ebay from daveknowsdeals. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/K-N-oil-filter-BUEL L-SPIN-ON-KN-177_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35595Q QihZ018QQitemZ280105404482QQtcZphoto | ||
| Smcnamara |
Quick note: The WIX filter available from Amsoil appears to be incorrectly specified. It is shorter and just a tad wider than the OEM filter, and either the thread is different or it's impeded by the plumbing. I couldn't get it to fit. I'm liking the way mine is running with Amsoil MCV 20w-50 in the engine. Any oil of the correct weight is probably AOK as long as you stay on top of your changes... | ||
| Hughlysses |
While you're at it, I was wondering which religion is best. Well, some dude told me scientology was, but I heard it will cause your seals to leak and it can lead to "bearing skate"...  | ||
| Ulyssesguy |
This may be a silly question but im going to ask it anyway... Since our Buell motor runs in basically the same operating range of rpms as your standard car motor why not use auto oil and filters? It just seems kinda steep to pay stealership prices for 20W-50W synthetic and for the black oil filter.... Or am i thinking about this all wrong? | ||
| Hughlysses |
The main argument against that is that it's an air-cooled engine with different tolerances and it depends much more on the oil for cooling than does a water-cooled auto engine. That said, lots of XBers have had excellent results running various automotive oils, with Mobil-1 15W-50 synthetic being one of the favorites. I'm not a fan of Syn 3 (although I have used it) mainly because HD spent ~5 years putting out disinformation on synthetics, saying they weren't necessary, could cause engine problems, yada, yada, until they came out with their own version at which point of course it became great stuff. | ||
| Bearly |
I was wondering if everyone is putting the same oil in the primary as in the engine system. I tend to change them both at the same time. | ||
| Iugradmark |
As a follow-on to Bearly's question, what are people using in the primary? | ||
| Hughlysses |
I'm using Formula+. I switched to it in my S3 and have been very happy with the results in it too. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Castrol makes a true 20w50 full synthetic that is generally easier to find then the Mobil 1 V Twin. I can usually find some at WalMart or Auto Zone. An air cooled motorcycle will run a LOT hotter then a water cooled car. | ||
| Thunderbox |
If you want a good or maybe I should say excellant filter go to your local Ford dealer and buy the Motorcraft FL836. In my job we cut open and inspect many filters and many makes of filters. I have never seen a better filter than the Ford ones. Well made, twice the filter media of the Fram. Much beter made than anything else I have cut apart. I still have to cut up the new Amsoil microfibre filter but to this point at the price of the Ford filter you will not do better. | ||
| Adrian_8 |
I have been using Mobil 1 15-50 in the ULY for about a year... I took a 4500 mile trip last year and the bike used about a quart with the 15/50...I just got back wednesday from a 6450 mile trip on the ULY and I used Mobil 1 V-twin 20/50 and it only used 9 oz..on this 6450 mile trip...I was pleased. | ||
| Ridetherejk |
Thunderbox, have you cut open a Hastings or Purolator? Just asking. I've been using both for years. Are they okay? | ||
| Thunderbox |
Yes we have as a matter of fact. Our shop uses a lot of Hastings filters on our heavey equipment they are not a bad filter. Purolator are a little better than Fram but for the extra buck go with the Motorcraft. You can not go wrong with them. You can get them anywhere also. I'm off to the dealer this moning to pick a couple up. Happy riding | ||
| Oldnotbold |
Thunderbox What about the factory Buell filter? | ||
| Ridetherejk |
Thunderbox, thanks for the info. | ||
| Bearly |
And another thing... Thread Seals. I was just wondering what kind of Teflon if any you all are using. Just plain old Teflon tape? I guess that's in the owners book somewhere but the maintenance manual says to use Locktite 565. I asked about Teflon Sealant at the dealer, and they looked at me as if I was an Alien. (no comments here:-)) Didn't have any in the building. So I just put a little dab of 565 Loctite on the last few threads near the O ring and never had a problem. Also I torque the plug only to 18 lbs. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Bearly, I've just been using some generic teflon pipe thread sealant I had from a household plumbing repair I did and it works fine. Several Uly riders posted that they don't use anything (an o-ring seal really doesn't need anything else) and they've never had a problem. | ||
| Bearly |
Thanks Hughlysses. I figured that's what was being referenced but I was still looking for it to be more difficult! | ||
| Thunderbox |
I can' say I have ever cut open an original Buell filter and I probably won't now as I am using the Motorcraft ones. If I ever do get one and I can ask the dealer, I will let you al know. I am also hoping to do the radar calibration on my speedo this week and I will post it in here when I do. |
