| Author | Message | ||
     Hooliken |
They are joking about getting to the rear plug..............right????? Airbox off...check. Base plate off....check. Get the freakin plug wire off...not a chance even with my long ass fingers. I tried every conceivable angle but could not get the boot to come off. Anybody use one of the plug boot removal tools with any success?? | ||
| Aeholton |
I used needle-nose pliers. | ||
| Birdmanrh |
Wait until you want to change out the header. LOL | ||
| Lorazepam |
There are way worse bikes than the Uly for service. | ||
| Etennuly |
I have a long pair of needle nose pliers that I use for fishing, they pull it no problem. For the plug, I use a 1 foot long wiggle flopper end extension with a spark plug socket. When pulling or installing the plug I put a piece of masking tape across the opening of the socket so that the plug will stick in it. Make sure you coat the plug threads with neverseaze and start the threads by hand. This stuff is easy if you have the right tools. If all you have to work with is the Buell tool kit and a hammer, screw driver, and a vise grip it will be tough to do. | ||
| Hooliken |
I have all the tools that anyone would ever need. Pulling plug wires with needlenose from the top of the boot can lead to bad things. Trust compared to changing the plugs and doing a jetkit on an I-4 this thing is a piece O cake. Just was a little put off by how much space that you are NOT given to get to this plug. O well........not gonna keep me from riding it..  | ||
| Etennuly |
Pulling plug wires with needlenose from the top of the boot can lead to bad things. You are right about that. I used the pliers with a really light grip and a rod hook on the bottom of the boot in unison the first few times on my earlier Buell. Then I got the feel for the pliers and a light grip on the middle of the boot and listen for the wire clip to pop off the top of the plug. No problem. | ||
| Chris_in_tn |
You can buy a set of needle nose pliers that are specifically for pulling plug wires. They are long and the ends are curved in a circle to grasp the cap. I bought mine at Harbor Freight for about $6. I also put a little dielectric grease in the cap to keep out moisture and to keep the cap from seizing on the plug. | ||
| Davo |
Another tip is to wrap electrical tape around the universal joint in order to tighten it up so you can start the threads. Use your fingers only on the extension until the gasket touches the head then put a wrench on it and go an additional 1/4 turn past touching with a new plug, 1/16-1/8 turn with a used plug. Always use anti seize and carefully blow debris from the opening with compressed air before removing the old plug. | ||
| Kc69xlch |
you can also try a blast of air from a needle tip air blower strategically placed at the base of the plug. this often will help remove stubborn plug wire boots. gently pull on the boot while repeatedly giving it short bursts with the airgun. | ||
| Kc69xlch |
a piece of 3/8 oil/ fuel hose about 12-16" long also makes a great spark plug installation tool. if you need more reach put the other end on an extension or screwdriver | ||
| Birdmanrh |
Heck, there are worse cars to service than the Uly.  | ||
| Kc69xlch |
yeah, you have to remove the engine to replace the plugs on a porsche 930 turbo. |
