| Author | Message | ||
     Derek1 |
has anyone used tire pressures other than what is in the manual and to what results i just put a new pirelli on the rear and still have the dunlop on the front thanks | ||
| Roadrailer |
Let me preface this by saying that you should always follow the manufacturer's recommended tire pressures... That said, I typically run 39f/42r rear. The increased pressure seems to give me improved tire life with no discernable loss of grip. In fact, the tires feel quite "squishy" to me if I run the suggested pressures. I think they just get too hot at the stock pressure. Like I said, I'm not suggesting anyone try this. Just pointing out what works for me. | ||
| Roadrailer |
By the way, mixing tire brands is generally considered a bad idea. | ||
| Florida_lime |
Roadrailer said: By the way, mixing tire brands is generally considered a bad idea. Mixing tire types, such as radials and bias ply is usually frowned upon, but I have never had a problem mixing brands, as long as the different brands are of a similar profile. For example, I wouldn't use a Pirelli MT60 rear (rounded profile) with a Dunlop 208GP (trigonal profile), but this would be an extreme example.  If you don't have enough experience to know what tires would work well together, then don't try this at home, kids.  } | ||
| Roadrailer |
Of course, living in Florida, handling isn't much of a concern, now is it?  | ||
| Florida_lime |
Living in Florida does not mean only riding in Florida. I am buying a place in Robbinsville, N.C. about 15 miles from a little area known as Deal's Gap, maybe you've heard of it ? | ||
| L_je |
Yipppee! One more car with a Florida tag driving 10 mph below the speed limit, in the wrong lane, up in the NC mountains! I'm kidding, I'm kidding! But, you know what I mean.  | ||
| Florida_lime |
Car ? What's that ? Oh, one of those. Last time through, on the way to Vermont for a funeral. Doesn't look like it's on the wrong side, with traffic backed up to me ! http://www.photoreflect.com/pr3/OrderPage.aspx?pi=04RK008B000131&po=131&c= (Message edited by Florida_lime on April 29, 2007) | ||
| Terrible1one3 |
Don't get into an accident and claim insurance with mis matched tires. Most insurance companies won't cover you if you have mis matched tires. And yes when they look at it they check it, anything to get them out of paying money. | ||
| Florida_lime |
I hope an insurance company can prove that two different brands of tires on the motorcycle caused that cell phone yacking, left turn bozo to not look first.  But you are right, they will try anything to get out of paying. | ||
| Atoms |
When I got my Uly back from her 1k service, both tires were over 40 PSI! It seemed to ride just fine, but I panicked a bit a released some of that until they were down to 38 F 36 R which is two pounds over the rec's in the manual. I didn't check the pressure (I KNOW - you don't need to tell me how stupid that was) on the maiden voyage (from Atlanta to Chicago) but on that trip, with presumably lower air pressure I got 38 MPG whilst since: 42 MPG. Could have something to do though with not cruising at 90 MPH so much... | ||
| Lorazepam |
Tire pressures will change with the ambient temperature as well. I have checked my tires when it was 35* out, and added air. Four days later, at 62 degrees (gotta love spring) they had pressures higher than I normally run. Oh yeah, Being a beefy guy, and until this past fall normally rode 2up, I ran higher pressure than recommended by Buell. Now that I am riding solo, and losing weight, I have dropped the pressures, but still above the recommended ones. I found over the years that when forced to ride on Dunlops, they cupped much less when run close to the max listed on the tire rather than the bike manufacturers suggestions. (Message edited by lorazepam on May 02, 2007) | ||
| L_je |
When they say 36/38, they are specifying a "cold" pressure. When the tires heat up after few miles of riding, the 36/38 no longer applies. The tire/bike manufacturers account for these PV=mRT effects in their pressure recommendations. We should all measure our cold pressure, and then after a few miles, take the pressure again, and then one more reading once you think your tires are about as hot as they are going to get. This way, we'll have a better number with which to gauge when we ask ourselves "Are my tires low?" when out on the road. ________________ On a side note, I was (unintentionally) running my 616 rear at 50psi for almost 1000 miles! Wow, how on earth do you do that? If an inquiring mind wants to know, I'll tell ya, but I've got to go check on dinner right now. | ||
| Oldnotbold |
Shouldn't that be 36F/38R? BTW, my rear looses anywhere between 2 to 4 pounds/day and has since new. | ||
| Lorazepam |
Tighten up the valve core and see if it stops. | ||
| Oldnotbold |
Gale, That's the first thing I did. It was leaking slightly, but soapy water on the valve does not show anything now. BTW, I PM'd you earlier today. Dennis | ||
| Roadrailer |
You might also want to try removing the wheel from the bike, filling up your bathtub, and slowly rotating the wheel through the water. If you have a slow leak somewhere, it should bubble when submerged. | ||
| Florida_lime |
Just ride it into the bathtub !  | ||
| Atoms |
Shouldn't that be 36F/38R? BTW, my rear looses anywhere between 2 to 4 pounds/day and has since new. Yes. 36F 38R. Sorry - good catch. As for your leak - yeah - mine has never seemed to lose any air, other than the air I let out of it. |
