| Author | Message | ||
     Irelage |
When is the best time to switch to synthetic? After the 500 mile break-in, 1000, 2000 or 3000 miles? I want to switch to Mobil 1 for the crankcase and tranny. Checking Oil Question: My oil level was at the add mark. I added half a quart which took it to the full mark. I checked it again this morning and it is over filled and foaming after riding for 40 minutes. I am checking the bike when hot and on level ground and screwing the fill plug/dipstick all with way in to get the measurement. When I add the oil should I add a little then run the bike a couple of miles and check it again before adding more? Usually I just add and check the level until I get it to the full mark. Last oil change I followed the procedure in the manual. I filled the oil filter about half full before installing it. I then added the 2.5 quarts to the engine. I ran the bike for 40 miles then checked it again and found the oil not registering on the dip stick. I added enough to indicate half way between add/full. It seemed Ok after that. The book says the engine takes 2.5 quarts so why was it low? What is the best way to check engine oil level? Sounds silly but I am getting inconsistent readings using consistent measurement techniques. | ||
| Windrider |
Irelage, You have to check the oil when the engine is warm and you are on level ground.... very level ground. Since the Uly sits on it's sidestand only (no centerstand) any angle in the site where you check it can affect the reading pretty significantly. I check mine at one gas station, always in the same place, while the engine is warmed up. I have also found that it is best not to add any oil unless you are down to the low mark. Don't try to keep it on the full mark. When it is right at full or past full it will blow the extra into your air filter. Makes quite a mess. Once I quit obsessing about keeping it on the full line I was much more at peace with my world. When I change the oil I always just fill it to the low line, idle it for a few minutes, make sure it is still on the low line, then ride it hot and top it off hot.... usually only takes just a bit more. Then I don't need to add any more. It seems to drop down to about half way between full and low and just stays there. In summary, always check it hot in the same level place and don't add oil until you are on the low line. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Irelage, I've got a relatively new Uly too and I'm planning on switching over at 5000 miles, but I'd think anything above 1000 is safe. I'm normally a big Mobil 1 proponent, but I'd check with them before I put any Mobil 1 lube in the tranny. For the pre-06 Buells, they recommended Mobil-1 MTX 10W-40 synthetic motorcycle oil for Buell transmission/primaries (I contacted them and asked). Others have run Mobil-1 15W-50 auto synth and 20W-50 V-twin synth without problems. DON'T run Mobil-1 75-90 synth gear oil if you don't want to be replacing your stator in ~20k miles. I don't know if Mobil has a recommended lube for the 06 up transmissions which have helical gears and a lighter effort clutch. They're very good about responding to inquiries so I'd ask. checking Oil Question: 1) I'm pretty sure it doesn't take nearly 1/2 quart to go from "add" to "full". I can't imagine why it didn't register correctly but that dipstick can be VERY hard to read with clean oil on it. 2) Your technique sounds correct- engine hot (ridden several miles, not just cranked and idled for a few minutes), bike on the sidestand on level ground, dipstick screwed all the way in. Most people here advocate not adding oil unless it gets below the add mark, and then don't feel obliged to fill it to the full mark. 3) Next, the oil system only holds 2.5 quarts including the filter. If you filled the filter half full and then added 2.5 more quarts, it was over-full. Why it would register low after that, I can't imagine. Difficulty reading clean oil on a black plastic dipstick again? 4) Best way to check? It sounds like you're already doing it. At least one guy here added a piece of brightly colored heat shrink tubing to his dipstick to make it easier to read. That might be worth trying. | ||
| Windrider |
Irelage, I forgot about the syn switch question. I switched at 3K and don't see any problems. Some engines now come with syn from the factory. To be honest, I don't think it makes a lot of difference but I am sure that you will get many strong opinions on this! | ||
| Captain_nartman |
AT 5000...ish N x | ||
| Aeholton |
I switched to Synthetic at 2500 miles (currently at 23,xxx miles). Never needed to add oil. I change it every 2000-2500 miles. I don't fill it to the full line. I keep it about halfway between full and add. It stays there. | ||
| Roadrailer |
You have to check the oil when the engine is warm and you are on level ground.... very level ground. Since the Uly sits on it's sidestand only (no centerstand) any angle in the site where you check it can affect the reading pretty significantly. I check mine at one gas station, always in the same place, while the engine is warmed up. This is very true. Any slope can make a significant change in the reading. Finding a patch of ground level enough for an accurate, consistent reading can be a pain in the ass when you're far from home. A sight glass would be better (regardless of slope, you could always hold the bike level). I switched to synth at the 5,000 mile change. Can't say that's the best time to switch, just that's when I did it. | ||
| Whitj |
After the 500 mile point I went to Mobil 1 15/50 as I have w/ all my bikes. 12000 miles on my Uly now and not an issue w/ anything. Great machine!!  | ||
| Hughlysses |
Since we're on the subject, and we all agree that having the bike level when checking oil is very important, how do you set your handlebars when you check the level? Full left lock, centered, or full right lock? This makes a pretty big difference in the lean angle of the bike. I use full left lock and seem to get consistent readings. |
