| Author | Message | ||
     Terrible1one3 |
I have an XB12X. Looking to do a slight paint change with the wheels and the seat support outer bracket. What are some tips to do this with very low cost? What should I use to prep the surfaces? What cleaners/solvents/strippers? What type of abrasive piece should I use? Scotch Bright/Sand Paper etc. And last of all what spray can paint should I use. I found some stuff online that is 10 bucks a can that is made for automotive wheels. Seems like good stuff, with the brake caliper will I need higher temperature paint levels? The only other thing I painted on a motorcycle with a rattle can was some mufflers for a HD sportster. What I did was use a grinding disc on all of the chrome and scuffed the shit out of it, then used grill paint from a spray can. It was EXACTLY what I wanted, flat and black. I know I can't get a grinding disc in the wheel nor would I want to with the wheel balancing etc. I just want some tips so I don't screw it up too bad. I am gonna go ahead and take on the whole black on black Buell thing cause, well , that is what I like. Thanks a lot for any input! | ||
| Etennuly |
You don't necessarily need to strip the wheels to achieve what you are looking for. The wheels can be cleaned with a detergent like dish soap and water. It can be done with a medium/fine scotch-brite pad. When that cleaning process is done dry them off with a lint free cloth and air, and you should be ready to paint them. I would use a quality professional brand name rattle can enamel, don't use a lacquer. You won't need hi temp paint, the rims just don't get that hot. Stay away from petroleum base cleaners like thinners, solvents, mineral spirits and the like, as they melt the surface of the powder coating. | ||
| Terrible1one3 |
Thanks, would Rustoleum qualify as a quality professional brand name? or krylon?  | ||
| Dfishman |
Use a good self etching primer after roughing up the surface with a scotchbrite pad.Make sure to clean with a paint prep or denatured alcohol.Then paint with what ever paint you want. | ||
| Etennuly |
For the econo program you are doing I'd think those were OK. The only problem I see with this kind of paint job is there is no fix (other than stripping all of the way down), if you change your mind later and want to go back to the original or change to some other color. Resanding and recoating over these paints will usually cause lifting, sinking, shrinking, wrinkling, and or cracking. It will work, just do it once. Shake the crap out of those cans to get all of the paint off the bottom and mixed evenly with the solvents. Spray your paint one light coat at a time so that it doesn't run and do all of the edges and difficult parts first to avoid runs. Allow 15 to 20 minutes between coats (depending on temperature), longer if needed for dry enough to touch. At the same time for each coat spray a spot on some paper or something to use as a dryness guage. The detergent wash with scotch-brite pads will be sufficient for adhesion on the powder coating. Adding primers and solvent cleaners just increase the chances of chemically induced problems. | ||
| Hoon |
Terrible1one3,I was recently thinking of painting my wheels too so Ta for asking the question.My rear tyre needs replacing very soon so it must be time. If you like matt(flat) black then check out www.Ratbike.org if you haven't already.They have paint tips on there too but not quite like the ones posted here. Spread the word-Say no to chrome it don't get you home! | ||
| Hoon |
Just looked at your profile T1one3,I know you dig/gonna dig ratbike.org-check out my old Honda CBX750 Bol'dor,Hoon from Potters Bar,England in the readers rides section. I don't have it now but my Uly is getting that way now. Enjoy. |
