| Author | Message | ||
     Stevenknapp |
So I picked my Uly up from the dealer after having the sidestand and BAS recall work done. They also replaced a failed exhaust servo motor. Before this service, during the winter, I serviced the forks, installed the 07 airbox cover, the 07 ECU, and magnecore plug wires. Here's what it's doing. Starts, idles, and runs great...until you get on the throttle hard. About 4200RPM (the RPM is consistent) the motor basically shuts off and stays that way until you close the throttle and then reopen it. Tach still works. It's at all intermittent, like a strange miss or something. It's almost like an early rev limiter or some sort of strange safety feature? But I'm just riding the bike... No faults in VDTS, but it does report "trouble" when connecting, but then pulls up an empty fault code window. In the next week or so I'll have a chance to get it back to the dealer, but I'm curious if it's something I can just take care of myself. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
With the servo swap, did they hook up the ECM to the computer? I can't remember at what RPM the servo activates, but it might be right about that point in the range. Could they have installed an 06 servo program on an 07 reflashed ECM? (Message edited by ft_bstrd on March 20, 2007) | ||
| Stevenknapp |
They didn't mention it in the service receipt. Even so, the bike shutting off? Just seems really strange... | ||
| Jmhinkle |
Does the bike run right up to 4200 RPM and then seem to die and then come back on and do it again or does it just become flat at 4200 rpm and remain that way as rpm increases? Can you get to redline or not? It sure seems like something related to the servo, but obviously it is something they didn't do right. | ||
| Stevenknapp |
It revs to 4200 then shuts off. It's not a power dip, but pretty much a total loss of HP. At this point the bike starts to slow and the RPMs drop to match. When back below 4200, it's still without power. Only after I let off the throttle, then back on will I have power again. I can't get to the rev limiter. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
It's gotta be an ECM issue. Unless the servo is somehow completely closing off the exhaust flow. | ||
| Etennuly |
I know these thing are hi-tech electronically, but is it possible the fuel inlet has a blockage or fuel pump is low on voltage, or vent tube plugged? | ||
| Stevem123 |
I've had this happen when I over-filled with gas, which in turn, saturated the carbon cannister with fuel from the tank vent. I know this doesn't make much sense but I've done it more than once and the symptom is always the same. Just ride it for a while till the carbon cannister dries out and it will be fine. Seems wierd at first but experiencing it for yourself and you'll be a believer. Last time I did it the symptom didn't show until I tried to excelerate onto the highway a mile from the gas station. Sceered the pee out of me as I was nearly run over by cars! BC Steve | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Does Illinois have the same emissions control items as California. Mine doesn't have a charcoal canister, I don't think. | ||
| Chadhargis |
I don't think mine does either, because I haven't removed it yet.  LOL! | ||
| Etennuly |
He's from California, that's part of what they have to pay extra for. But then, they paid someone to tell them they had to pay extra for it! What a deal!!  | ||
| Stevenknapp |
Not a cali model, pees gas right on the ground. ECU, Maybe, but it ran OK with the 07 reflash before the exhaust servo work. I've reseated all the connectors. Fuel issues, maybe. Just seems too sudden to be something like that. I was curious if the 07's had some sort of ECU enforced break in period or something... | ||
| Davo |
Steven, Hook up the VDSTS and select the bank angle channel. With the ignition on and the engine OFF, cycle the throttle. Watch the TPS percentage for linear read out during the test ( 0-85%). Also watch the Bank angle sensor read out. It should not change. I think it is 1.2 or 1.4 volts. I will check mine later and confirm. If it is steady then do the same test with the ET voltage channel. | ||
| Stevenknapp |
All three look good both when not running, and when running. Bike revs clean past 5k with no load. Cycling the exhaust servo drops the battery voltage (not running) about .5V, not too far out of wack I'd think. I'm going to take it for another ride, see if reseating all the connectors has helped. | ||
| Aeholton |
Sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Weak fuel pump or partial blockage in line? | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
My fuel pump was replaced because when tested "it provided pressure below spec.". Aeholton might be on to something. | ||
| Buelet |
I'd double-check the the plug wires too... just to eliminate the easy stuff. You might have a wire that is pushed on, but not fully engaged, so once the resistance in that circuit builds to a certain point, it won't fire. ...Worth a try! Good luck! | ||
| Raceautobody |
Try checking the TPS. Set your VDTS to read TPS volts and with the motor not running, sweep the throttle slowly and watch for volt spikes or sharp drops. This happened to my X1. Bad TPS. It acted like you discribe. Also check the TPS wiring for damage. Just a thought. Al | ||
| Stevenknapp |
Rode it into work today. Frustrating. It runs really sweet at low load. Revs freely to the redline if I'm not pushing it hard. It's great to be back on the bike, even just riding in a sane manner. It does miss and whatnot under hard load. Even at lower RPMs. My first thought was that I was hitting some sort of fault or safety limit. Seems to be not so. Plans or tonight: - Pull the air cleaner plate to get access to the coil and TB. - Check the plug wires. I just put Magnecores on so it seems logical that I didn't get one on all the way hence the trouble. But I swear I spent a good 30min checking and rechecking these are installed right. - Re-do the sweep on the TPS, both with VDTS but also with my scope. Also check the wiring. This makes sense too, and I did the check with VDTS earlier and looked "sane"...going to retest as this seems possible too. (Message edited by stevenknapp on March 22, 2007) | ||
| Treadmarks |
I had better luck snapping my magnecores on by simply taking the coil off. Only two screws. Make sure your throttle cable has enough slack in it for the throttle body to completely close when you re-zero your tps. | ||
| Stevem123 |
Sorry for the charcoal input. I thought all the 07s and later were getting the charcoal cannister per new EPA rules. I just figured you had one too. It doesn't hurt the performance but does cause the problems I listed earlier. I just wish I could figure out a better location because it's an eyesore. I could yank it like I did on my 01 S3T but I'd like to keep it on the 06 just to keep the LEOs from looking more closely at my "race only" other stuff. Hope you find the culprit soon! BC Steve | ||
| Jmhinkle |
I had a hard time with one of my Magnecors. Worth checking into. They might have knocked it loosed or not put it on right when they were in there. Especially being load related. I find that spark issues like to rear their ugly head only under load issues. | ||
| Chadhargis |
Where'd ya order the Magnacores from? I'd like to get a set of them. Wonder if anyone makes a more robust coil as well? Maybe Dyna? | ||
| Jmhinkle |
Call magnecor directly. Nice people to deal with. They will ship priority mail same day you call. 248-471-9505 I haven't looked into stronger coil so I can't help with that. | ||
| Stevenknapp |
Problem solved. When removing the airbox bottom plate to get at the coil, it removed easily, a bit too easily. The rubber intake trumpet thing wasn't in place with it's clamp right. I had removed it when I was rerouting cables etc... And I didn't get it back on right I guess. Even getting it on this time was a real pain. Not the dealer, nothing to do with the servo. I also reseated the plug wires to both the plugs and the coils, but they didn't seem loose to start with. My guess is the intake leak = too much air = running too lean more so at higher loads. (Message edited by stevenknapp on March 23, 2007) | ||
| Stevenknapp |
Thanks for all the help! | ||
| Ftd |
Ockham's Razor strikes again! | ||
| Chadhargis |
That intake is a bear to get back in place. I remember when I changed my plugs having to take a deep breath or to between cuss words. Next time I change the plugs, I won't remove the airbox plate. I just used my swivel on the ratchet and it was easy. Just out of curiosity...why are folks changing the wires? I checked mine when I did the plugs and they still felt pliable and weren't cracked. | ||
| Stevenknapp |
Ya, to do plugs you don't need to take the airbox off. I did plug wires and did some minor wire rerouting to help prevent chafing. I only removed the rubber trumpet to make things easier, I'll never do it again. One of my plug wire boots was torn. The magnecor wires seem to be of a bit better quality. Also the starting/idle and low speed operation seems maybe a bit cleaner? Or maybe that's in my head. Same for the fork spring swap. After riding the dirt bike for a day, the Uly's front end seems really nice. BTW, a pair of these ($17) makes the rear plug install/remove a ton easier. I had a cheaper pair from the autoparts store that never seemed to help and actually did some harm. These just plain work. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool= all&item_ID=10803&group_ID=1351&store=snapon-store &dir=catalog | ||
| Frausty12r |
Off topic, not to hijack. I use the t27 body fastener tool in the tool kit to get my velocity stack resealed to the airbox floor. Takes 2 mins to get it sealed again. Perhaps one day when I'm not so lazy I could do a walkthrough with pics, but in the meantime I'll try to explain to anyone who cares to follow. First, pic a side to start on, I typically go with the 9 o'clock position. Get the upper/lower seal split, and worked onto about 1" of the opening's radius. Then, carefully hand tighten the four fasteners that hold the floor to the frame. Next, take the short end of the T27 quicktool in one hand (I'm a righty so I put it in my left hand) Then with the other hand grab hold of the upper seal at it's most clockwise position. Next insert the longer end of the fastener tool in between the upper and lower seal flanges and work it around clockwise "prying" the upper seal away from the throttle body with the tool, while also pulling it up with your other hand. In no time, you're back around where you started, and gentle tug and some thumbing works it completely into position. I'm thinking about taking an old philips screwdriver and grinding it into a smooth balled end and use it for the sole purpose of refitting the airbox seal on the velocity stack. =) |
