| Author | Message | ||
     Lorazepam |
Ok guys, what is the verdict? What temp works best for older eyes, and how do they hold up?  I have an idea for a cool light system. I need to know if anyone has h7 bulbs they have not in use, for temporary research in the near future. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Everyone will tell you that my 8300K kit from RiderWarehouse is dim as crap, and because of the "purple" light it emits I have every LEO on the planet permanently implanted in my backside. I have found that my HID conversion was the best money spent. It draws less power, puts out more light, and generates less heat. It's bright enough to be a marked improvement yet not so bright that other drivers wince in pain (nor LEOs give a second look). I have been "flashed" 4 times. To me, that's pretty good. | ||
| Paochow |
I'm finishing up the install of my HID kit, Stebel horn, and PIAA's. I still have a blue spot in my eyes from testing it out. Went with an over airbox mount.. Made my own wiring harness from scratch to wire up all the items with separate fuses. Heres a few shots.   Ft_Bstrd: What wire did you use to activate the relay for the HID? I was going to use the low beam wire, but was wondering how hard it is on the ballast with the dimming at start-up. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I used the front powerport. It doesn't dim during start up. I thought there was a thread a while back that the lights don't dim during start up. I can't remember if they do. If you are using a relay, you could still use the headlight lead as long as the "dimmed" current is enough to complete the circuit. If it is, the relay will close and the light will stay on at full strength. If it isn't enough, the relay circuit won't complete and the HIDs won'd come on until the start cycle is complete and full power is returned. If the lights dim during start up, it would be cool if you could use a current specific relay. If the current is below a certain level, the relay doesn't complete. If it is, it does. Would be cool. | ||
| Paochow |
Thanks for the fast help. I'll have to try it to see if it dims it or cuts it completely. I was playing around with a multimeter earlier, and the voltage went from 12.8 to almost nothing when thumbing the starter. I have the brains (flyscreen) open still, so it will be easy to experiment with. I would like to have it on continuous at startup if possible, rather than off/on with the starter, so if the low beam kills it, I'll wire it like yours. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Mine would drop out with the voltage drop at startup. YMMV. I have schematics here for a 60 second (cold start) 40 second (warm start) delay circuit for the relay. I'll build you one if you want to try a prototype, it makes things idiot proof and is only a few simple components. Thats what I put on mine. Somebody else had commercial similar things that they got in bulk that they offered for cost... forget who, check the archives. You can also just trigger off the high or low beam, and make sure you have the light switch in the right position when you turn on the ignition, and you remember to switch it back so the HID goes on once the bike is running. I used the normal "daylight" color. 6800 deg maybe? Can't remember... Not the super blue stuff. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
It would be cool to have the delay relay. Mine stays on all the time (even at start). There is no dim in the light at all. I'm sure that that puts some additional loading on the battery, but so far, it hasn't been a problem. Most folks wouldn't think twice about starting it with an electric vest hooked up. The HIDs draw less current. Should folks unplug everything? Absolutely! Will it affect the life of the battery? Probably. Marginally. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I wasn't worried about the battery wearing, I had my actual HID "rebooting". Not always, but enough. And one time it went off and did not come back on. That was freaking me out for a $200 system, especially when I knew I could fix it with parts sitting over in the electronics junk box. The switch approach works great as well, it shouldn't be that hard to remember to switch it. | ||
| Treadmarks |
I have schematics here for a 60 second (cold start) 40 second (warm start) delay circuit for the relay. I'll build you one if you want to try a prototype, it makes things idiot proof and is only a few simple components. Thats what I put on mine. I would like a 30-40 second delay if possible. Let me know how to make it happen. | ||
| Paochow |
Same here, definitely interested, sign me up as a beta tester. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
You have my address. | ||
| Paul56 |
I ordered a 5000k kit from xenonpros.com. They sent me a 6000k bulb which I didn't realize until I had it installed and fired up. The 6000k color is more blue than I wanted. I would prefer the 5000k which is whiter and produces more lumens. Rant: I tried for 3 weeks to get "customer service" to send me the correct bulb. They absolutely refused unless I brought it in in person (2 hrs out of my way) or mailed it back for exchange, thus being without HID for a week or so and having to do the removal/install twice more instead of once. Finally got the owner- same response. Asked if he was afraid I wouldn't send the old bulb back- he said yes, that was the problem. Beware. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Couldn't you just buy the capsule and send the one you have for a credit? Aerostitch won't even ship you a replacement without charging you. Were I the owner, I wouldn't either. |
