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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through March 02, 2007 » Archive through March 02nd, 2007 » Won't Start...Plugs are REALLY hard to get to... « Previous Next »

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Onemanclan
Posted on Sunday, February 11, 2007 - 12:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi Everyone,

My Uly won't start. I thought it the battery was low, but after trickle charging and then jumping it I see that isn't the problem. My buddy and I tried to start it by popping the clutch, but that wouldn't work either. So, it looks like the plugs are fouled. How the heck do you get to them? I have the airbox off, but it looks impossible to get a spark plug socket where it needs to go. Any tips are appreciated. Any other tips on getting it started? It only has 3000 miles on it and I've had it since June. I have to admit not being too happy that two of my friends who bought bikes (Honda & Kawi) the same month I did, are riding around in our winter reprieve, while my bike sits...The "I told you so's" are hard to defend against when they're riding, and I'm not...
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Krassh
Posted on Sunday, February 11, 2007 - 12:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You need to take the left airscoop off and the then the front plug can be removed with a wrench. the rear plug requires a u-joint (wobble)adapter. Make sure you do not cross thread the rear plug upon reinsertion.
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Davo
Posted on Sunday, February 11, 2007 - 12:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the engine will crank on its own I would just crack the throttle and give it a try. Otherwise pull the plugs. You need a 5/8" box wrench for the front and a spark plug socket with an extension and a U joint for the rear. Wrap some electrical tape around the U joint to give it some rigidity.
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Onemanclan
Posted on Sunday, February 11, 2007 - 01:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks...My friend had suggested the 'wobble' adapter...I guess he knows what he is talking about!
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Reepicheep
Posted on Sunday, February 11, 2007 - 06:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

By the way... use no (or at least very little) throttle when starting a cold bike.

People have had occasional reports of plug fouling and it concerned me, but in 16k ownership on my 9sx, I have had no problems, and I have ridden the thing in all sorts of temperatures.

I leave the throttle alone while the bike is turning over. Once it catches, if it sounds like it is a about to stall, I may give it a tiny throttle nudge just to keep it running, but not much... and I am not sure that if I did nothing the ECM would not keep it running anyway. It seems to know better then I do where the real limits of the engine are.
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Madduck
Posted on Sunday, February 11, 2007 - 08:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If mine is really cold it needs the throttle cracked open a "touch" or it never starts, generally below 40deg. Crack the throttle and it fires right up.
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Sunday, February 11, 2007 - 08:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Use some anti-sieze on the threads when reinstalling.
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Buelltoys
Posted on Sunday, February 11, 2007 - 10:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a problem similar but not sure the exact issue yet. This morning I had a hard time starting the bike. About 25deg outside. I used the throttle to get it going and keep it going. When I went out later in the day(60Deg out)I tried to start it and it would not stay running. When I tried to crank again the push button will not even turn the starter. Any ideas on how to correct this?

14K on the bike and this is my first problem encountered. This is a great bike just want to get it started. The weather is great and I need to ride.
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Davo
Posted on Sunday, February 11, 2007 - 10:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check your battery terminals and make sure they are snug.
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Chadhargis
Posted on Sunday, February 11, 2007 - 10:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One thing about the Ulysses is the different experiences people have with the bike. Mine always starts on the first press.

I hadn't started the bike in about a month. I turn on the key, squeezed the clutch, and hit the starter. It fired right off. It was probably about 40-45 degrees or so...don't have a thermometer in the garage. I've never fouled a plug, or had my engine ping for no reason.

Funny.
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Adrian_8
Posted on Sunday, February 11, 2007 - 11:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The plugs look harder to change than they really are..You need the 3/8" wobble/4way and about a 12 inch extension to get the back plug out. The front is just a socket and wrench. The real trick is to put a piece of rubber hose/tubing on the back plug to get it started going back in, use anti seize on treads too. I put in Iridium plugs to hopefully extend the life of the plugs. Just take your time it is no big deal...granted the back one looks weird to change.
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Aeholton
Posted on Monday, February 12, 2007 - 07:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I put in Iridium plugs to hopefully extend the life of the plugs.

How often are you folks changing plugs?

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Etennuly
Posted on Monday, February 12, 2007 - 08:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I ran my original plugs to the 10,000 mile service, and it was still running fine.

I have found that it is best to only start the bike when you are going to ride it enough to reach full operating temperature every time. Three or four cold starts(like to just move the bike) will foul the plugs.
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L_je
Posted on Monday, February 12, 2007 - 10:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I commute to work nearly every day on my Uly, and sometimes have a little difficulty starting when the bike is cold-soaked to something <35F (ie, sitting out all night at work, sitting out all night in a NF, etc). (The bike will crank, but stumbles a bit, and idles on the low side.)

If the bike is cold-soaked (<35F) this is what I do: right after cranking the bike (not during) I'll crack the throttle just enough to keep the idle above 1000rpm; I'll keep at this for about 1 minute, and by then the bike will idle just fine on it's own. (though I have no scientific justification for this, I just don't think it's a good idea to let the bike to idle below 950rpm)

I've been using this "just enough" method all winter long (when needed) and only at 8500 miles did I change out my plugs, just because I was curious about their state, and didn't want to wait until 10000 miles....the plugs were A-OK.

Maybe I should have switched to a lighter oil for the winter, but then Murphy would have stepped in, and we never would have seen temps below freezing.

So far, I've had probably a half a dozen cold-starts, and restarts with temps in the mid to low 20s and have never had a problem.

DO NOT "blip" the throttle upon start-up...if the Harley-Dudes(TM) were actually riding their new '07 EFI bikes in this weather, they'd quickly figure this out as well.

Changing the rear plug is a bear, and I have genuine empathy for you! I was nearly in tears, and about to ask my 8 year old to reach in there to try to pop the spark plug wire.

Don't let your friends get you down; the Uly is a very capable bike across a wide range of conditions.
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Adrian_8
Posted on Monday, February 12, 2007 - 11:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine fouled plugs twice as I was moving. Never have fouled one on the startup. Both times it was after I had stopped for about 30 minutes and within a mile it started missing, whatever that means.. The stock plugs generally last me about 10K miles. I now have the NGK DCPR8EIX (6546)Iridium plugs in for a tryout.
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Jmhinkle
Posted on Monday, February 12, 2007 - 03:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have had the exact same symptoms as L_je. I just handle it differently. If the bike is "cold-soaked" I have to blip the throttle as soon as the engine fires so that it will run. Otherwise it will not fire up. I immediately let go as it fires though and it will run low at a low idle until it warms up. If I hold it open it acts like it wants to load up. It took a few tries last fall to figure it out, but now I know exactly how to get her started according to the temp outside and have no issues. Sometimes, though, if I take off too early when it is cold it will miss or stumble a few times during the ride.

As far as the Irridium plugs, I would suggest to avoid those things because they are actually opposite of their purpose just as Platinum plugs and all the other overrated ones out there. They are less conductive than copper. I believe they were invented for life not performance. They will last longer than a copper plug, but the performance results are just not there. Your best bet is to stick with a copper plug and find out how much you can increase the gap without missing. It will create a capacitive situation and make better spark. Old school trick I guess, but it still gives the best results I have found. Especially if you put a high performance ignition on it. Haven't done it on the Uly yet, but have on everything else I've owned with great results.
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Lorazepam
Posted on Monday, February 12, 2007 - 09:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got to agree Jmhinkle. Autolites seem to work really well in any bike I have owned, Japanese, German or English. I am going to try to find the proper one for the Uly and give them a try this spring.
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Thunderbox
Posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 10:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think the emphasis should be on what caused the flooding not worrying about which type of plugs to purchase. Unless you did something weird when starting I think you have a problem and you need to deal with the cause not the symptom. If you have a problem it will come back no matter which brand of plug you buy. From experience it will come back when you can least afford it too. Murphy has no love for Uly riders. lol
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Stevenknapp
Posted on Wednesday, February 14, 2007 - 09:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I start my bike a lot when cold and have found that there is some truth to the whole "touch the throttle foul the plug" thing.

The ECU can control idle speed to some extent with ignition timing. It took a few tweaks, but I finally got the idle adjust where it's in the "middle" of that range when the bike is warm/running. Cold starts were better. With the idle tweaked lower, it would idle right when warm, but was horrid when cold.

If you're having problems, give it a shot. Warm the bike up. Adjust the idle up a 1/2 turn (RPMs will rise a wee bit). Shut the bike off, restart it. Mine idled at the original "lower" value again. I kept doing this until it did idle higher after the restart, but then did need to back it off a bit as it then idled too high when it was really hot.

YMMV.
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Fastfxrs
Posted on Saturday, February 17, 2007 - 10:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

14,000 miles on my original plugs. It started, warmed up and let me ride it to a bike night meeting in 5 degrees F last tuesday. It loaded up while feathering the throttle trying to keeping it running at first but then settled into a normal idle. I'll change the plugs this spring (I was too lazy when I did the 10k service). I always changed my Harley plugs at 10k out of habit, they never needed it. I pile on the miles so a lot of the 10K mi. stuff gets put of until the begining of the next riding season. Its hard enough keeping up with oil and tire changes.
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Adrian_8
Posted on Saturday, February 17, 2007 - 11:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't know if it helps on a bike that has been sitting in the cold for a few days or not, I cycle the ignition twice before I try to start it. It might fully pressurize the system that has been idle for long periods..so far it starts and idles great after sitting in the cold for day and days..maybe just luck....or my go fast Iridium plugs..
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Onemanclan
Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2007 - 10:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

UPDATE!!!

I took everyone's suggestions (thanks!), and changed the plugs...It fired up right away! I think the whole situation is my fault. My HD had a carb, so I *was* used to cracking the throttle. The plugs were covered when I removed them. Lesson learned...

About new plugs. I live in Reno which has an elevation (at the airport) of 4600 feet. My house is easily a few hundred feet above that. My HD/Buell dealer recommended OEM plugs because of the altitude. I went with their suggestion.
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Gruv
Posted on Tuesday, November 11, 2008 - 05:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm new to Buell's but not to motorcycles. First off, Awesome site!
I have a 2006 Uly that ran in March 08 but sat all summer without cranking. Battery was weak and just clicked the starter relay. It had also had a jump start which did not turn the motor over either. New Battery now cranks the engine but does not fire off. Is there any way of checking the ECU to prove that it the problem. I have heard that jumping these might toast the ECU. Also I figure the gas is 1+ year old and it may have been just water in the tank(frame). I plan on draining old fuel. Reading above input tells me to do the plugs for sure. The bike has 12,000 miles and appears to be maintained very well. Any other suggestions?
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Jacksdaddync
Posted on Friday, January 25, 2013 - 02:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

24 degrees outside today, and mine was just serviced and it want start either...What gives..
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