| Author | Message | ||
     Too_tall_todd |
Sorry about that face in the previous post, I dont know where It came from. I know that sunny California does not really get cold but we have had a cold spell here (its below freezing at 03:00 when I get off work) and Damacles, my uly has been starting really hard. I know that it is because I have a bike full of of (a** cold oil) per our mechanic at work. I have a load of 15-50 mobil-1 oil which I hope will solve the hard starting issue but... I don't understand the physics behind the nonclementure. 15-50 is thinner than 20-50 at what end of the spectrum? is the first number the cold one or is the second? While I feel that mobil-1 is a superior oil and will protect me more over all, will the reduction in viscosity from 20-xx to 15-xx benefit me in the cold? I just wanted to throw this out to all the riders out there to get your opinions. thanks. T3 | ||
| Thunderbox |
The first number is the oils viscosity when cold and the second it the viscosity when hot. The lower the first number is the quicker your engine will get oil to all the parts when cold. It will also be a lot easier to crank when starting a cold engine with a lower first number. Mobile 1 makes a great 0W50 European formula oil that is perfect for those cold start mornings. I don't know if it's available in California but we get it in Canada at the Mercedes dealers. It's the recommended oil for the little Smart cars made by Mercedes. | ||
| Hughlysses |
TTT, Even with similar or the same viscosity ratings, Mobil-1 will generally flow easier and quicker when cold than conventional oil. What the nomenclature really indicates is this: the viscosity when cold is equivalent to that of a 15W straight-weight oil, and the viscosity when hot is equivalent to a straight weight 50 oil. Contrary to what some people think, it does NOT get thinner when it gets cold and thicker when it gets hot. The viscosity of multi-grade oils is less sensitive to temperature changes than straight weight oils. If you want to study up on oils, go to: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com | ||
| Teeps |
I use Valvoline VR1 straight 50wt in my Ulysses' engine and Formula + in the gearbox. So, to give the starter a running start at the compression stroke during cold soak starts. I rotate the engine backwards until the fuel pump runs. Shift back to neutral, then press the starter. The engine will fire up in one or two revolutions. | ||
| Too_tall_todd |
Once again thanks for all the great advice guys. | ||
| Davo |
AMS oil 20w-50 MCV in both holes works well for me. 20W-50 gives good protection to 20F. Cold start issues can be corrected by turning the idle screw up just a little. The important thing is to let the engine warm up until the rocker boxes are warm to the touch before loading the engine. The head bolts are not torqued very tight. The reason is that the cylinders will expand when heated and make the cylinder to head connection tight. At 32F, even HD360 20w-50 will do the job. | ||
| Tootal |
Todd, Try pulling in the clutch when starting. If you don't then your also trying to turn all that oil in you transmission. I figured this one out at 10 degrees right before my battery gave up! I was never so glad to hear it spark to life!! | ||
| Reepicheep |
There is some voodoo in the ratings. In theory, from say 70 degrees to running temperature, 20w50 should be the same as 15w50 should be the same as 5w50 (all full synthetic). But I can tell you from experience, if I put in 20w50 in my 9sx, I have *no* oil consumption. If I put in 15w50, I have a little oil consumption. If I put in 5w50, I have a lot of oil consumption. I think its because the temperature range response is non linear. In the areas where they measure it, it is all fairly close, but after you get much above or below it, some of the oils performance characteristics change FAST. My XB9sx with even the 20w50 full synthetic fires up fine even in 28 degrees (coldest I have made my 20 mile commute yet this year). | ||
| Etennuly |
In the 9sx I had, I had to be careful about checking the oil often as the 20-50 HD oil would disappear in warmer temps. I ran the HD W50 after the temp reached 75F peak in the daytime with no consumption problems. | ||
| Thunderbox |
You use more oil when you use 5W50 because before the engine gets warmed up nothing fits correctly and I would bet my bottom dollar your oil is all being used before the engine gets up to temp. The thicker stuff doesn't get by the rings when cold. For the same reason your engine is being lubricated much better with the thinner oil when cold. Who said 20w50 should be the same as 15w50 and the same as 5w50. Think about it. If they were the same would they have different ratings. You can't even compare a 20w50 to a 5w50 on a cold start and yes even if they are all syns they are totally different. Take a 5w50 and a 20w50 put them in your freezer overnight take them out and open both bottles. Pour at same angle. Now tell me they are the same. Sorry I just reread the post about the differnet oils. Yes at 100 degrees they would be the same. (Message edited by Thunderbox on January 30, 2007) | ||
| Reepicheep |
We are in violent agreement  Even in cases where I would start the bike one or two times but ride several hundred miles, it would still consume a LOT of oil with the 5w50, but not with the 20w50. I don't have to understand it, I just went back to 20w50. I only had the 5w50 in there because I was curious, and it was on sale. |
