| Author | Message | ||
     Stevenknapp |
I've read quite a few posts on this form, and have even done some fork work on past bikes. This wasn't something I went into expecting too many problems doing the job. I'll say this, before starting the job get a 32mm box end or deep well socket for the fork caps. On my bike they were on there VERY tight. So tight that I questioned if I was missing something, reverse threaded, retaining clip, nope, they were just that tight. If you can, loosen them before the bike is in the air too. My biggest mistake is that I tried using an adjustable wrench. Normally I'm a big fan of "the right tool for the job". What was I thinking this time around... On past jobs the fork caps weren't on that tight. Since I didn't have the deep socket, or a big enough boxed end wrench, I thought this would work. First time around it slipped and in the process badly deformed the fork cap making the hole where the pre-load adjuster goes not at all round. Since that is a sealing surface, I'm doomed and need a new part.  On the positive side I did get the fork cap off. A 32mm (1-1/4 is close too) standard depth socket isn't deep enough to clear the adjuster. The craftsman socket I have will grab the nut, but with the torque needed to break it loose, the socket will probably hop off the nut. Not worth the risk. The "husky" brand socket I have didn't even get that far. Go deep. A few useful tidbits: - The other Buells have easier access to the top of the forks while installed in the bike. On the Uly, loosen the handlebars and rotate and/or slide them to get better access to the fork caps while still in the tree. This rids you of the need for a fork vice. Given how tight my caps were I had a hard time holding the fork leg anywhere but the clamps of the tree. - 32mm box end wrenches are ~$25 at Sears. I have no idea how much the fork cap I ruined is, but I'm sure more than that. 32mm is also a common size in bicycle headsets, so you might find a good tool at your local bike shop... http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=50 &item=HW%2D2 - A 6-pt deep well socket is the ideal tool for this task. They don't exist at sears except in special order S-K sets. Snap-on wants $96 for their single socket. I might try this set from Harbor Freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem. taf?Itemnumber=34683 - Also another thread on badweb suggested using a ratchet strap to compress the spring enough to remove the fork cap from the damping rod. All my ratchet straps have hooks that are too large in diameter to fit in the fork slide. It was at this point I thought I should quit while I was behind and order up the fork spring tool from Traxxion. Oh, I tried that, but their online ordering system was in on things and generated some weird error. Learn from this mistake.  | ||
| Jmhinkle |
32mm is an extremely common size on many different types of machines including Printing Presses and Bobst Box Cutters. They have become very common on autos for axle nuts and motorcycles for head nuts and fork nuts. The problem is usually deep well is not needed for the application. I'm guessing that for what little use it will see, this is not a bad deal if you only want the single socket: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kdt3270.html or for SK Brand: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/skt34282.html otherwise the kit from Harbor Freight is a better deal and will do fine as long as there is enough room for the thickness of Impact style sockets. Did you verify that 1 1/4 will work? 32mm is actually slightly larger than 1 1/4, so usually it works one way but not the other such as 13mm is close enough to work on 1/2 inch without problems, but 1/2 inch is usually too small for 13mm nuts. 19mm and 3/4 are completely interchangeable due to manufacturing tolerances. As long as there are none of those GM 24mm bolts that are actually 25mm due to the canadian exchange rate, I'll be happy. I'll probably have a local fellow, Dr. Greg, help me with mine since he has done the task all ready and has the tools for the job. Did you get yours finished? | ||
| Justin_case |
Did you loosen the upper pinch bolts before trying to loosen the fork caps? | ||
| Stevenknapp |
The only 1-1/4 I had wasn't deep well, it seemed to engage OK on the nut. I'm going to stop by HF in the next few days, I'll let you know how the impact sockets fit. With the handlebars out of the way there is quite a bit of room, but without moving them it's VERY tight. I first removed the fork leg, expecting to be able to clamp it well enough to get the nut off, then I put it back in the bike w/ both sets of clamps tight, then just the lower pinch bolts tight and the upper loose. I think having the upper loose makes sense. I'm waiting on the new fork cap before I can finish the job. | ||
| Dr_greg |
Joel, better not ask Dr. Greg to help you since he uses a big adjustable wrench for the fork caps! This is all very annoying since there's no reason the caps have to be that tight in the first place. Sorry to hear of your troubles, Steven. But it's still better to DIY! | ||
| Stevenknapp |
Retail on the fork cap was $33 and it comes with the preload adjuster. Not bad. | ||
| Paochow |
Thanks for sharing this info. I have a set of progressive springs/oil from Daves that I've been putting off installing. Thanks for the heads up on the 1 1/4. Luckily I have a 1 1/4 6pt deep well that I bought in a set at Sears. DRZ needed it to tighten the primary nut. I have a question if you don't mind, so I don't end up in the same situation. How much spring tension are we talking about here? Will I be able to compress it with a simple cheapo ratcheting strap or do I need to buy some special tools from Traxxion? Thanks, paochow | ||
| Stevenknapp |
I could do it by hand, but needed an extra hand to get the wrench in there. My ratchet straps have hooks that are all too big tho. If you had some smaller S-hooks from the hardware store, you could do it with the strap no problem. Keep in mind the Traxxion tool has you compressing by hand. It gives you a nice place to hold on, and a bit to put on to hold the spring compressed. Also it is 32mm. My 1-1/4 socket fit but before you get too deep into it give it a shot. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Paochow, same here. Got the '07's and stuff, just waiting for a crappy w/e here to dig into it. But I bit the bullet and bought the compressor tool from American Sport Bike knowing I'd be using it a lot in the future. Stevenknapp, thanks for the heads-up. | ||
| Paochow |
Thanks, I think I'll pick up the tool. I removed my valves on my DRZ last weekend using a C clamp and modified PVC pipe as a spring compressor. It worked but, it would have been easier to have the proper tool. I'll give the 1 1/4 a shot when I have the bars off, if it doesn't fit I'll be making a trip to Sears. Thanks again. |
