| Author | Message | ||
     Xbimmer |
Finally got around to checking my primary today. Last time I was in there at 10k to change the oil it was a little loose but I read here somewhere that loose was good. Took several measurements all were a consistent 5/8", that seemed pretty sloppy to me so I adjusted it down to a warm 3/8". Man what a difference! I couldn't believe the noise reduction, and the shifting seemed to improve also. We'll see what happens when I fire it up cold tomorrow. Best part is at over 5k the Mobil1 VTwin I put in there at 10k was still as clean and slippery as new. Nothing smelled funny in there, I was going to change it out with the engine oil this week but I'll let it go to 20k. I'm not so sure "loose is good" after all. | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
Too loose is bad. Too tight is bad. Just right is just right.  | ||
| Windrider |
Xbimmer, Loose is not good. Just Right is good. Loose is noisy, poor shifting, and causes vibration. Tight is really bad and can cause damage. Loose is better than too tight but just right is best. | ||
| Debueller |
It pays to get it "just right". I had to adjust mine at about 5K miles. I was very careful to get it as close as the min free play as possible WITHOUT going under. (I *think* it was .375") Haven't touched it for the last 27K miles. Check it every 5K, when changing primary lube and crankcase oil. Hasen't moved yet.  | ||
| Chadhargis |
I've got nearly 10k on my bike and I've checked the primary chain a few times. It always feels fine, not too much slop, my bike shifts fine, and it's not noisy. I'll check it again at 10k and see if it needs adjustment. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Uly runs great now with the snugged up primary. Since Debueller's is fine after 20k, and mine had no tight spots swimming in a bath of M1VT and no change in over 5k since my 10k check, and the adjuster locknut took about 1 ft/lb to loosen, I'm somewhat suspicious that once again my dealer maybe didn't do everything they were supposed to do at the 1k and 5k services they performed... ho-hum... | ||
| Too_tall_todd |
Mobil 1 v twin in the primary? when I accidentally dumped my primary I was told by many people that I had to replace it with the HD primary oil ONLY. They were very specific and rather frightened me. What weight are you running in the mobil 1. I plan to change out to the mobil 1 15-50 in the engine next change. | ||
| Freyke |
I've been using the Formula + in my Uly... In the XB9s i had, I ran Mobil 1 15W-50 in the primary... No problems... Side note; If I recall correclty, the the gears are different in the ULY (helical cut) vice the straigt cut (rock crusher) found in the other XBs... The difference in shifting is simpy amazing between the two transmissions (IMHO that is)... I figured why mess with sucess and have stuck with the OEM remcommended fluid in the Uly... I see no need to seek out something better, because it's already better... | ||
| Treadmarks |
I just switched to AmsOil 20/50 in the primary. Chain is adjusted 1/4 turn out from snug, which for me was just over 3/8". Shift is smoother and neutral is much easier to find now. | ||
| Jmhinkle |
I am also running Amsoil 20w50 in mine. Have been since the 1k service. After finding the primary tight with no slack at all when cold, I figured out why I could not find neutral with the engine running. Butter smooth ever since. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Too_tall, I run the 20w50 M1V. I don't know whether there is another weight available. It was recommended by my dealer at my 1k service to switch to HD Syn3 in both cavities, Syn3 is designed for engine/chaincase/trans. At my 5k I went with Syn3 again. At 10k I switched to M1V/T for both engine and trans and at just about 16k I'm not sorry. Finally changed my engine oil today, was pretty dark probably as a result of the puny filter but almost zero deposits on the drain plug and oil still slippery as new. In 6k miles I didn't even add 1/2 a qt! The stuff in the chaincase at 6k looks new. Cheaper than Syn3 too at Autozone. | ||
| 12x_infatuation |
Hi all... Is this primary adjustment something i can do or check myself? Are there 'signs' that it may be loose? (shifting is still quite clunky, if thats a word, after 12000km, tho i can find neutral easily). Computer printout with service invoice states it was checked at 8000km, but this was probably some automatically generated typical type of thing. Will eventually try for my own servicing etc but am a little hesitant at the moment. Thanks, Matt | ||
| Freyke |
Shiftig can be a problem it it's too loose or too tight... you want it in the "Goldie Locks" zone.... If I can remember, with a cold motor, that's 3/8" inch of vertical play (average) as observed through the primary inspection window... Make sure you check several points along the chain by rotating the gears... I usually do 4 points... Here is a good thread on the subject I found in the KV... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/180512.html kk//kef |
