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Too_tall_todd
Posted on Tuesday, September 26, 2006 - 01:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This whole primary oil thing is new to me, so new that I inadverdently drained my primary last night while changing my engine oil. OOPS. My book says that I have to use the HD primary oil but I seem to recall that there is another option sanctioned by the factory but, I don't know what it is. Also I was perusing the local dealership and saw that REDLINE (a local oil manufacturer that makes excellent if expensive synthetic oil) markets an oil for primary. Their schtick is that it is more stable being synthetic and that most oils in use are too slick for proper function. They say that a little friction allows the syncros to align more easily and with less clash? Does this make sense to anyone. I don't really trust the HD people at the parts counter. I obviously need to get something today so if any of you could help me out I would appreciate it. T3
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Jlnance
Posted on Tuesday, September 26, 2006 - 01:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You didn't mention the kind of bike you have, but I'm assuming a Uly from your profile.

I think that takes a different kind of primary oil. All the other bikes use engine oil in the primary. So my answer is I don't know. The safe choice is to use what HD says. If they call for engine oil, then use whatever you like.

But, just so I'm not being compleatly unhelpful, you fill the primary via the inspection cover. You will need a new gasket for the cover when you replace it.

Also, the cover is held on with T27 torx bolts. T27 is a difficult size to find. I found a T27 screwdriver at Sears. Be careful not to use a T25, as it will almost fit but strip out the heads.

I think the screws come with a little loctite on them. Put your driver in the screw head and tap it with a hammer a few times before you try to remove the screw. This loosens up the loctite and makes your life much easier. Also, I use and adjustable wrench on the handle of the driver to get a little more torque.
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Daves
Posted on Tuesday, September 26, 2006 - 02:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

also, you want to "crack" each one loose but one at a time and then tighten them back up a little.
This keeps the cover from "cocking" and becoming a real PITA.
The Torx in your tool kit is a 27

HD Formula + is the fluid that Buell says to use.
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Red_chili
Posted on Tuesday, September 26, 2006 - 02:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I use Redline oil in my truck and they are telling you the truth about synchros. However, my truck does not have a wet clutch and a charging system riding in the tranny oil; for that reason, I would use the H-D recommendations. H-D makes a synth for the application as well.
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Bigdaddy
Posted on Tuesday, September 26, 2006 - 02:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The Uly should have Formula+ in the primary by the book.

I've ran M1 gear lube for the longest and I've had no failures related to its usage. That being said there seems to be enough data on Badweb to suggest this may not be the best route to take. I'll run Formula+ in my Uly primary and M1 15W-50 in the engine.

G2
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Lorazepam
Posted on Tuesday, September 26, 2006 - 06:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Syn 3 is approved for use in the primary now.
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Treadmarks
Posted on Tuesday, September 26, 2006 - 06:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Redline MTL tranny fluid here. Works great in my soft tail, and it actually makes finding neutral much easier in the Uly.
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Tuesday, September 26, 2006 - 06:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I must have the smoothest transmission on the planet. I have no problems finding neutral or shifting up or down.

If the Formula+ is recommended and my transmission isn't an aberration, how much smoother does it need to be? Or conversely, how much risk of damage to the stator or other internal components are you willing to take for marginally easier shifting?

I don't understand.
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Crusty
Posted on Tuesday, September 26, 2006 - 07:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)



Yeah; what he said.
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Az_m2
Posted on Tuesday, September 26, 2006 - 08:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I ran Syn3 for a cycle and my clutch was grabby. Haven't noticed it with the Formula+. However, I didn't check fluid level, that could have been a factor.
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Too_tall_todd
Posted on Tuesday, September 26, 2006 - 09:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for all the help Guys, I knew that I should not trust the hd guys. The parts counter guy swore up and down that I had a sportster engine and that I had to use "sport trans oil". when I made them look it up the new guy said "thats not the right stuff". well I got the formula+ and will be back on the road as soon as I get off work, thanks again T3
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Tuesday, September 26, 2006 - 11:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And the great news is the Formula+ smells as much like crap as every other gear oil!

That way you won't feel you are missing anything.
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Rams
Posted on Wednesday, September 27, 2006 - 01:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the sportster oil would work just fine, until 05 HD had for big twin one oil for primary and one for transmission plus the engine oil, and for the sportster family (witch is the same setup as buell engines) one oil for tranny, now all the primary, tranny and XL oil were replaced by the new formula +, the parts counter guy was just trying to sell you old stock,
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Josh_cox
Posted on Wednesday, September 27, 2006 - 01:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That is funny that they still have Sport Trans Oil. H-D hasn't made that for a year now. They came out with Formula + claiming it is better. I would buy it instead. The Uly service literature will recommend Formula + as well.
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Rams
Posted on Wednesday, September 27, 2006 - 05:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Many dealers still have the "old" sporty trans oil, I was working at one until last week and we had some cases left, it takes a while to sell out, the service depto tries to sell Syn3 and at the counter usually we sell Formula+, so the sporty trans is used only when they service a sporty or buell with regular oil.
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Jlnance
Posted on Wednesday, September 27, 2006 - 07:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Syn 3 is approved for use in the primary now.

Do you know if that applies to 06 transmissions as well?
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Red_chili
Posted on Wednesday, September 27, 2006 - 08:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yup.
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