| Author | Message | ||
     Jmhinkle |
Call Daves and order part number n0348.1adybp for $15.75. It is the Ulysses top clamp for the handlebar. Do not ask for the XB12X logo as I did mistakenly. That is $7.51 extra. I cut the center out because of my heated grip wires. Tried grinding a spot out, but the grinder wasn't doing much to the clamp. Band Saw cut through it like swiss cheese though. You'll also need 4 5/16"x2" bolts. I couldn't locate nickel plated locally, so had to settle for standard black for $1.80.   It raised the bars just under 1". That was the perfect amount for me. Took all the pressure off my hands that I was experiencing after longer rides. For reference, I'm 6' tall with 32" inseam and a longer torso. Joel PS, I did not do a pre and post dyno run to see if it made a difference!! | ||
| Sleez |
without the dyno runs, it's all meaningless!!! looks good, nice farkeling!! pics of the bike before and after? | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
That look like it would help me with that numbing feeling!! Did you have any problems with cables/wires other than your heated grips? | ||
| Jmhinkle |
Sleez, Check out my super easy heated grip thread for the before shots. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/226090.html?1158414236 Wolf, There is plenty of room in the cables and wires for this. I believe trojan even makes a 1.5 up and 1 back riser that works no problem. That was just too pricey for me though. This completely cured my numbing feeling. | ||
| Sleez |
Joel, i was wondering about a full frontal shot, that showed the overall look, and how it might have changed. thanks are you getting enough clamping force, it looks like the clamps are touching??? (Message edited by sleez on September 22, 2006) | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Thanks for the info...It looks like if I wanted to go higher I could put some 1/2" + or - alum. spacers under the clamp...Thanks again for the idea!  | ||
| Jmhinkle |
Sleez, Here is the full frontal if it helps and also a front/side shot. As far as the clamping force, when I first put it on, there was a little space. I cranked them down pretty hard to ensure there was no slipping. When I was done, I yanked as hard as I could from all directions, and they didn't move at all. The only thing I was considering was to take them back off and flatten what was the tops of the new bottom bracket where they are scored now so that they seat better with the old bottom.   | ||
| Sleez |
Joel, thanks, exactly what i was looking for. doesn't change the overall looks much at all! thanks | ||
| Daves |
Nice! | ||
| Stretch67 |
Great idea for us tall freaks of nature. Thanks a lot! | ||
| Asdf |
I used two of the clamps under my bars. I also filed down the top of the wings that are the bolt bosses so that they are square and flat on top and bottom. The job would have gone faster with a milling machine, but a coarse file worked well. After I filed them down, each clamp produces a .75 inch rise. The two of them stacked together produces 1.5 inches of rise. At 1.5 inches of rise I needed to unbolt the adel clamp that holds the front brake hose to the rear of the instrument pod. A 0.75 inch rise does not require the removal of the adel clamp. Have fun! | ||
| Paochow |
Great mod, I added a clamp today when wiring in my Polly Heaters. Took a bit of filing to get the lower clamp to sit flat, but it was worth it. I ended up drilling a hole in the clamp and working the drill fore and aft to make a oval slot for the Polly Heater wiring. that way I can get enough adjustment out of the bars. |
