| Author | Message | ||
     Jmhinkle |
I was going to order a set of the grip heaters from American Sportbike, but while on the phone with Daves ordering other parts I asked him and he mentioned using the drop in style heaters. I then remembered I had a set of those buried in the garage for my KLR that I sold. I promptly dug them out and they installed rather quickly since we have open ended handgrips. They work really well too. The only thing is I want to install a Rheostat to control temp instead of on or off. Anyone know of a good one that will go from off to full blast besides the one from warmnsafe.com? If you are looking for grip heaters, the Polly ones work well: http://www.klr650.com/Handlebar%20heater%20kit.htm Joel | ||
| Aeholton |
How do they work on the right side with having the plastic throttle tube between the grip and handlebars? | ||
| Jmhinkle |
They work just fine. They have a piece of insulation on both ends that traps the heat around them. This causes it to radiate out thru the bars and grips. The thin plastic of the throttle tube doesn't slow it down at all. Works like a champ on both sides. They do get rather hot once they have been on for a little bit which is why I want to find a rheostat for them. Joel | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Can you give us a few photos of your install? Thanks. | ||
| Jmhinkle |
I didn't think about taking them while doing the install, but I can pull a plug from the bar end and snap a photo and also where I ran the wires out and installed the switch if that helps. I will do it in the daylight tomorrow. Not bright enough in the garage now to get good photos. Joel | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Thanks. I look forward to seeing them. C'mon man! Every install is a chance to do an install write up. You gotta look out for your BW brethren! | ||
| Birdmanrh |
So the throttle sleeve will not warp from the heat? I like this idea, just don't want a full throttle heat induced trail run. Here is what you need to control them. http://www.warmnsafe.com/motorcycle_product_TOC.php | ||
| Bosh |
I like the idea of those heaters. I found an article in Canyon Chasers on installation. I don't like the way the Canyon guy did his routing because handlebar movement would cut the wires but better options would be even easier. linky: http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/heated-grips.php | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
You could hook them up in series with each other so the power would be cut in half. | ||
| Dragon_slayer |
Yes I agree, the Canyon guy created many installation problems for himself, just to hide a short section of wires from the bar to the bike. Also I see many future wiring failures with his system. I think he had binders on to make the install pretty. I like the heaters and will order some for myself. | ||
| Jmhinkle |
Here is my install. Again, rather simple on the Ulysses. As far as warping the throttle tube, I don't think it will be a problem since they were suggested to me on the fact that they have been used with no problems. I guess only time will tell. As far as the warm nsafe controller, it costs more than twice what the heaters cost. I'm sure there is a rheostat cheaper somewhere. Insulation traps the heater on both ends.  It has a bendable metal strap to make it tight in the bar.  For wire routing, I used the stock hole drilled to 3/8" and supplied grommet installed.  Closer pic of the grommet  Wires go straight under instruments to front compartment and all connections are in there.  And where I mounted the switch.  Joel | ||
| Aeholton |
Nice job! Looks good. Thanks for posting the pictures. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Joel, The rubber grommet is included in the kit? Did you use a relay? Is the metal strap enough to prevent the heating elements from rattling around? I am planning on adding the HVMP bar ends. Is there enough room with the elements? Thanks. Nice install. Very clean! | ||
| Birdmanrh |
Here is the same kit with a Hi/Lo switch. http://www.pollyheaters.com/ph400.htm You're right about the other item being more than the cost of the heaters. Great idea, thanks for sharing! | ||
| Jmhinkle |
Ft_bstrd, There is actually two rubber grommets so you can drill two holes, one on each side of the bars at the lower bends if need be. I didn't have any problems fishing the wires thru the stock hole in the center after drilling it out. I have not installed a relay yet, but I plan on it. For now I tapped into the cigarette plug power because I don't use it for anything and it is key operated. The metal strap is pretty sturdy so I think it will hold fine. Plus, I bent it in this shape _/--\_ so that it is wedged against itself to hold up better. I don't know about the HVMP bar ends, but these heaters will go in as far as you push them. They are about 2" long if that helps. Joel | ||
| Stevenknapp |
FWIW, they cig lighter power is it's own relay switched feed. So putting a relay on it isn't needed. | ||
| Bosh |
Great install and thanks for the pics. I'm gettin some of those!!  | ||
| Jmhinkle |
Just wanted to let anyone of you know of the little change I made if you were looking into this kit. The toggle switch that came with mine is of the all plastic variety and it kept getting a little loose after a few days of riding. It was also hard to see the switch position in the dark. I stopped by Wally World on the way home from work one morning and picked up an all metal mount switch that also has the built in red LED for like $1.44 or something cheap. Holds great and the LED makes it easy to tell if the switch is on or not. Also threw on my traction grips, after a little trimming, and my Touratech spoilers. The spoilers are of an amazing quality. Fit and finish is absolutely superb. I highly recommend them. New metal mount switch  Traction grips  Spoiler front  Spoiler corner  Joel | ||
| Asdf |
Howdy! A quick suggestion for anyone mounting the TouraTech hand guard Spoiler Extensions: When the mounting screws with nylock nuts are on the INSIDE of the hand guard, as is called for by the installation instructions, you risk some injury in a situation where the hand guard is forced back against your hand. The protruding screw and the nut can mess up your fingers a little bit, if you are wearing light summer weight riding gloves. I wondered about this at the time of installation, but I went ahead with the installation, anyway.... Later, I found out that my initial suspicions were valid.... I now have switched to 6-32 stainless steel pan head screws with stainless steel acorn nuts. I used LocTite to keep the nuts from working loose. I put the pan head screw heads on the INSIDE of the hand guard facing toward my hands. The acorn nuts are on the OUTSIDE facing forward. I started with 6-32 screws that were 1/2" long. Larger diameter screws could also be used. I used a wire stripper/crimper that has threaded holes in it for cutting down small screws. This type of tool does not damage the threads. Shortening the screws was needed due to the fact that acorn nuts are closed on top and do not let the excess length of a screw pass through the acorn nut. When it was finished it looked better than the cheap plated metric screws that came with the hand guard. It also will not "Bite" me again. Grub fer ponder'n | ||
| Aeholton |
Why not just rivet them? | ||
| Birdmanrh |
Good call! | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
Ft bstrd - Those will not work with the HVMP bar ends. If you use the HVMP bar ends, you are better off going with a set of Kimpex grip heatrs like these http://store.azmusa.com/kigrhekit.html | ||
| Asdf |
Yes, rivets could also be used. I considered using them, but I preferred the aesthetics of acorn nuts. If I had used "Pop" rivets, I would have put their heads facing my hands, with the irregular end of the rivet facing forward. If I had used a peened rivet, I would also put the rivet head facing my hand. Some short Threaded Binder Rivets would have worked out very well, but I did not have any of those. (I am not sure of their exact terminology. Galco, Bianchi and others use them on gun slings, holster straps and such) To each their own! | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
JohnnyLunchBox, Would this combination not work if I cheated it toward the inside of the grip a little? Obviously too far in would result in cold pinky fingers, but in looking at the HVMP bar ends, it seems like the bar end shaft would put the end of the shaft somewhere around the middle of my pinky finger. I like the clean routing of the in bar heaters and would like to avoid the under the grip variety if possible. I'm almost willing to scrap the HVMP bar ends for these heaters. | ||
| Rdhj |
Does anyone have a suggestions for pulling the pollyheaters out of the bars. Mine don't seem to be working even though I have a complete circuit. Want to hold them and see if they are heating up. | ||
| Sweetfish89 |
I know this topic is a little over 4 years old but could you use a rheostat like this one http://www.svc.com/fc.html? |
