| Author | Message | ||
     Midnightrider |
So what do you think - On a short ride home, slowing for a traffic light and it starts to sputter. Keeps running with a little throttle but I notice the engine light (V twin symbol) is now red, and although the dash lights are on both the tach and speedo are at 0. Half-mile later it dies altogether. Engine light stays on and the starter button does nothing. After pushing it UP a large hill and I was able to coast down, pick up some speed, pop the clutch and finish the last few hundred yards home where it dies again at the driveway. All fuses appear intact. I know there have been similar stories here but honestly I am pretty busy getting ready to deploy to Iraq on Thursday and if there is a suggestion for a quick fix I would be grateful. Thanks | ||
| Davo |
Midnight, Check your battery cables to make sure they are snug then run self test for trouble codes. In order to retrieve trouble codes w/o software: Get a short piece of 18 ga. wire about 12” long with two small insulated alligator clips. The manual uses part number 72191-94 (two of them) as end connectors instead of the alligator clips. Go to the data link connector that is located on the left side just under the edge of the seat. Remove the rubber insert. There are four pins inside. Looking at the connector with the locking hasp pointed down. The pin orientation is such that pin # 1 and pin #2 are both on your left. See below: #2 #3 #1 #4 lock With the key and ignition off, connect pin #1 and pin #2 with the home made jumper. Make sure you do not touch the other pins! Then turn the key and the ignition on. Do not start the bike. The engine light should start to flash: If it flashes many times (about 10 or 11, to fast to count for me) very fast, then there are NO trouble codes. Otherwise there will be 6 quick flashes at 3 per second and this is an intermission. Then there will be a 2 second pause Then count the number of one second flashes separated by 1 second pauses and this will be your first digit. Then there will be a 2 second pause Then count the number of one second flashes separated by 1 second pauses and this will be your second digit. Then there will be a 2 second pause Start back at intermission of 6 flashes…………..and so on…….. This will continue until you turn off the ignition and the key and remove the jumper. If you remove the jumper without turning off the ignition the engine light will continue to cycle trouble codes. If you have a trouble code and then you correct the problem that created the code. The bike will automatically clear the codes after 50 start and run sessions of at least 30 seconds or more. Until then the code will remain even if the problem is fixed. Trouble code list: 11-TPS 13- O2 sensor 14-ET (engine temp) 15-air intake temp 16-battery voltage 21-exhaust actuator 23-front injector 24-front coil 25-rear coil 32-rear injector 33-fuel pump 35-tach 36-fan 44-bank angle sensor 52, 53, 54, 55- ECM failure 56-cam sync. Failure Good luck. There is a more detailed account of this procedure in the shop manual. There is also flow charts to correct all of the fault conditions. This procedure has pulled codes that my VDSTS Pro USA did not pull. The VDSTS could clear them but it could not recognize all of them. I never leave home without my jumper wire, list of the codes, small box of fuses, electrical tape, and an extra relay. I hope this helps.! | ||
| Xbimmer |
I think you have bigger fish to fry than this and good luck on all counts! Can you leave it with a friend or (trusted) dealer or shop to work it out while you focus on your deployment? Could even be the emerging stator problem, if that happens to mine that's the last straw, IMHO... | ||
| Xbimmer |
Davo, how do you retain all that stuff...? | ||
| Davo |
I saved it as a word file and then cut and paste. It saves time and our friend is in a hurry. I looked at Midnight's profile and he has some electrical add ons. There were some issues with some of the lighting add ons and one time I heard of a problem with a horn add on. Well Midnight if you can't find it then let me know and the day you get back I will try to be there to take a look at it. I went to High School at BCC and my father lives in Wheaton. Its only about 3 1/2 hours away. So don't worry about the bike we will all try to get you back on the road! Thanks for your service to our Country! davoyoda@earthlink.net Dave Wilkinson aka Davo | ||
| Midnightrider |
thanks to all! one thing I learned from my Dad (who was a pretty decent shade-tree mechanic) was if at all possible, avoid starting a job at night! but I've got the jumpers and I'll tackle this in the sunshine. by the way, the battery was drawn down pretty well after my pushing it with the lights on for safety so I put it on a slow charge and it did start right up and seemed to idle normally. I didn't let it run very long though as it was past midnight and the Drummer really Drums when the neighborhood is sleeping thanks again Don ps: I had already made plans to leave it at Frederick HD/B when I leave to replace a leaking clutch cable and do the side-stand recall work. I have had heard some good things about them and I'm tired of the crap at Battley where I bought it | ||
| Rotorhead |
Sounds like the same thing that happen to me a few weeks back. Voltage regulator failed. I could charge the battery and it would run till the battery died. Ran real rough till it died. Good luck in the sand box. The food is getting better along with the living areas. | ||
| Ftd |
Sounds familiar, voltage reg. or stator: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/220926.html?1157255658 We know Uly's have flimsy bag latches, weak side stands, and maybe flawed fans. Maybe a quality issue in the charging area too?? | ||
| Midnightrider |
lost the internet connection for most of the day but now (obviously) it's back. code is 1-6 (battery voltage). assume this is consistent with a bad voltage regulator thanks again | ||
| Davo |
Or a bad ground Check the battery voltage with the engine on and with the engine off. (Message edited by davo on September 03, 2006) | ||
| Midnightrider |
Thanks Davo Just tried it. Its the same (and I'm an idiot and not sure what scale I'm reading from ) and it could be 12V | ||
| Davo |
should be 12V off and about 14.3 running. Your charging system is not working correctly. Look for frayed wires at the regulator where the wires are stretched over the cross member. Then look at the connection behind the right side sprocket cover(use the #27 torx driver in your tool bag to get the cover off). It is a square looking four conductor (with only three conductors used)connector make sure it is clean and the connection is tight. Also, do you have any add-ons that are directly connected to the battery? Chances are it is a bad connection. Most likely a ground. Maybe a loose wire or moisture in the connector. Regardless an easy fix. At worse it is a bad regulator or stator but thats not a big deal. (Message edited by davo on September 03, 2006) (Message edited by davo on September 03, 2006) (Message edited by davo on September 03, 2006) (Message edited by davo on September 03, 2006) | ||
| Midnightrider |
borrowed a digital meter - 11.88V off, drops to like 11.51 running everything I know, which is not much, I've learned through guys like you. gonna pull the service manual down so I can FIND the regulator. Battery connections are clean and rock solid. No add-ons to the battery directly. Electrical add-ons I've made were wrap around hand warmers, a brake light modulator, and a couple LEDs wired off the brake light. When I did these last year I took my time, made good connections, wrapped them well with electrical tape, the wrapped all the wires with 1/4 inch protective tubing (looks like mini vacuum cleaner hoses). Wouldn't they only be a problem if they were drawing current? The hand warmers are actually disconnected but there is a switch and the switch is off. As for the LEDs and the modulator - they should only be a path for current when the brake lever is actuated, correct? Moisture - we've gotten a lot of rain but the bike has been garaged and not ridden in the rain or on wet roads or puddles. | ||
| Midnightrider |
no frayed wires and I pulled the connector - it is clean and dry | ||
| Davo |
Double check 30 amp battery fuse. If the fuse is ok then make sure the key switch is off. With the four conductor connector (with three black wires) behind the sprocket cover disconnected, the male side of the connector should be on top and hanging down. This is the stator connector. Set digital ohm meter to ohms and Rx1 Insert one lead into a stator connector socket (there are three) and the other to ground. Test and record the readings for all three sockets. They should all be infinite ohms- a sideways 8, no continuity! Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which requires replacement. Then remove the ground lead and test across all three. 1-2,2-3,3-1 with the same setting, Rx1. All three readings should be 0.1-0.3 ohms. If readings are lower then the stator is damaged. note:Make sure that when you touch the two leads of the ohm meter together the meter should read 0 (zero) ohms. If you pass the two tests above the problem is most likely the regulator. The only other possibility is the rotor(for the stator). | ||
| Fllbikerwolf |
HELP, Let me start by saying, I'm a rider, not an engineer! I was on a group ride yesterday, 125 miles from home (and the nearest dealership). We had been at our stop for about an hour and decided to grab a bite to eat...group rides and food, go figure! Anyway, rode the bike over to the fuel pumps, took on 2.1 gallons. The ride from the parking lot to the pump was 1/4 mile maybe. I rolled the bike out of the way for the next one to fuel up while i was putting my gear back on. Tried to re-start the bike, it had been off for about 6 - 7 minutes at the pumps. It cranked but wouldn't fire. The fan starts oscillating from high to low speed and the V-Twin light on the dash is flashing on and off at about 2 flashes per second. The group took off without me, but that's a different story. Had to have the Uly transported back to the dealership, where the Buell Mechanic is off for the holiday.... Any ideas? Similar experiences?? Thanks! | ||
| Davo |
Wild guess would be that the ET (engine temp.) wire might have shorted (grounded) out on the rear cylinder rocker box or frame. Clues were the flashing engine light and fan on when it the bike was not hot enough for it to turn on according to your time line. ECM might have gone to skip spark mode and that is why it wouldn't fire. See the above procedure for pulling codes. If you had a jumper wire you could have pulled the code. If it was the ET wire you simply have to insulate it from the short to ground. Just a wild guess though. Please let me know what they found. (Message edited by davo on September 04, 2006) | ||
| Fllbikerwolf |
Thanks Davo! IMHO, Buell should have a mechanism for reading these codes in the field, without a jumper. An 800 number to help you get the bike back on the road would really make them WORLD CLASS. Just my $0.02 worth. The way it is, it reminds me of a PC running Windows. No one has a clue why it stops nor when it's going to happen (Mac user here)... |
