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Xbimmer
| Posted on Tuesday, August 29, 2006 - 02:15 am: |
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Suggestions and pics would be great, how are you guys mounting whatever additional lighting you're installing? Aside from better bulbs for the stock lamps, I mean. I'm not crazy about doing any drilling and I have a couple ideas utilizing existing threaded points. Seems there may not be any model-specific bracketry for the Uly yet. Gotta get a couple 3-4 inch units up there to help out the stockers. |
Huxley
| Posted on Tuesday, August 29, 2006 - 03:27 am: |
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I'm running a xenon depot HID kit on the low beam side and couldn't be happier with my ability to see. I do plan to add two lights on a bracket mounted to the forks behind the front fender, but these will be yellow fog's to help others see me. |
Baydog
| Posted on Tuesday, August 29, 2006 - 05:58 am: |
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Here's my approach. I made my own brackets from T6 aluminum that mount to the turn signal stalk mounts. It's very clean, and makes a huge difference. I'm very happy with them. The lights are simply some 3-1/2" ones that I picked up from Wally World.
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Chrisb
| Posted on Tuesday, August 29, 2006 - 06:57 am: |
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I saw a GS running a single 6" or 8" round Hella up on the bars. It looked funky in a cool way and prob threw out some serious light. |
Aeholton
| Posted on Tuesday, August 29, 2006 - 08:53 am: |
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Hey Baydog, nice looking setup. How did you wire them? Did you attach to headlight wiring or are you running a seperate switched circuit? (Message edited by aeholton on August 29, 2006) |
Lorazepam
| Posted on Tuesday, August 29, 2006 - 09:35 am: |
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I have come up with a light bracket. You can see it at www.ulytility.com I will become a sponsor here as soon as I break even. Cant advertise here for now. |
Electraglider_1997
| Posted on Tuesday, August 29, 2006 - 10:38 am: |
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Lorazepam, Nice website and brackets. |
Pso
| Posted on Tuesday, August 29, 2006 - 10:56 am: |
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I installed a set of PIAA's on Lorazepams bar. Talk about a simple install for the bar. I just needed to drill a hole on each side of the bar for the lights bolt. I installed my lights on the top of the bar instead of the bottom like in his picture.i probably will no tthe best weather protection this way and will also need to be more alert when washing the bike. If I can I will try to take a picture and send it too you or post it on this board. (How do I do that , post a pic here?) I have the lighted push button on the left side switch pod by the high beam switch which is very easy to get to, too turn on and off. I have the relay connected to my Electrical Connection fused electrical bar and then the lights to the battery. I have the kit that I purchased for my Gold Wing, so it had everything that I needed. I installed them over the weekend and they sure do help. |
Electraglider_1997
| Posted on Tuesday, August 29, 2006 - 11:07 am: |
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To post a photo you have to be able to shrink the photo file size down to around 70 or 71 kilobytes and then use the "upload attachment" feature. Easy if you know how to shrink the file with whatever photo software you use. |
Sound_uly
| Posted on Tuesday, August 29, 2006 - 12:17 pm: |
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I installed the PIAA 1100X lights on Lorazepam's bar. The bar is well made and goes on incredibly easy... thanks Lorazepam. Wiring was a bit of a PITA as far as routing of the wires is concerned but pretty simple other than that. The lights are very bright and I am usually running them during daylight hours. I've received several comments from drivers telling me how visible I am with the lights on. I'll get a picture after I get home this evening and post it here. Ron Ulysses in Seattle |
Xbimmer
| Posted on Tuesday, August 29, 2006 - 02:11 pm: |
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Thanks for the tips, guys! I was thinking also of fabricating a bar for behind the fender, there's also a third threaded hole in the center for extra support. That's a nice setup, Lorazepam! My idea is to put the shelf up top and rearward, but if I end up hacking it up I'll be giving you a call for one yours. |
Freespch
| Posted on Tuesday, August 29, 2006 - 03:38 pm: |
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I've got one of Loraz's light bars, too. Fits beautifully and finished in black it looks good with the black uly. The wiring part is fairly straight forward-the light bar solves the difficult part! |
Lorazepam
| Posted on Tuesday, August 29, 2006 - 04:31 pm: |
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thanks for all the nice comments guys. I dont think you can have too many lights on your bike. The deer in Ohio are out of control, and I want all the light I can have the greatest warning possible. |
Baydog
| Posted on Tuesday, August 29, 2006 - 09:51 pm: |
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Aeholton wrote: Hey Baydog, nice looking setup. How did you wire them? Did you attach to headlight wiring or are you running a seperate switched circuit? I wired them to the accessory plug circuit behind the fly screen. There's not enough current draw to cause a problem. I run them on a harness with a relay (important)}also bought at Wally World that has a really neat illuminated push button switch. I have it mounted inside the left handguard so a quick flick of the finger will turn the lights on/off. So far I'm really happy with it. Just a note: I considered running the lights down lower, but I did not want to do anything that would impede airflow to the cylinders. I'm a bit anal that way. |
Xbimmer
| Posted on Tuesday, August 29, 2006 - 09:55 pm: |
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O/t but speaking of deer anybody mount deer whistles on their bike? I'm a believer. |
Sound_uly
| Posted on Wednesday, August 30, 2006 - 11:28 am: |
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Picture as promised, hope it works...
I didn't get home till late and it was raining like mad. I'll try to get one in daylight soon. Ron Ulysses in Seattle |
Xbimmer
| Posted on Wednesday, August 30, 2006 - 09:29 pm: |
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Good thing about Lorazepam's bar is all the room. Specifically room enough to relocate my Fiamm I worked in under the flyscreen onto the bar along with a low-tone. That would free up plenty of space under the screen for relays and such. This project is sounding better all the time! |
Lorazepam
| Posted on Thursday, August 31, 2006 - 10:01 pm: |
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I tried to keep it within the frame pucks, but make it large enough to be handy. I like the look of the 1100x series lights. Small but very bright. They amaze me with the amount of light they throw out. |
Oldnotbold
| Posted on Sunday, September 03, 2006 - 08:24 pm: |
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Xbimmer: Have you got any pictures? |
Xbimmer
| Posted on Sunday, September 03, 2006 - 08:38 pm: |
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Sorry Oldnotbold, haven't done the light thing yet. I posted looking for other BadWebbers' ideas. Been working on the windscreen issue this week and I think I've found a solution I'm happy with. |
Theloftus
| Posted on Wednesday, September 06, 2006 - 04:41 pm: |
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lorazepam any time you want to take me up on the offer .. let me know |
Lorazepam
| Posted on Friday, September 08, 2006 - 12:18 pm: |
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Send me your address, via the ulytility mail, and I will get to work on it. |
Ulendo
| Posted on Sunday, September 10, 2006 - 10:19 pm: |
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here's my newest additions: Optilux ( Hella) 1100 series projector lights. mounts are 1" angle stock, tabbed under the OE signal light mounts so they cant rotate.
at full lock they clear the frame by ~1/2". right now they're wired so that the headlight live lead activates a relay, but I plan to stop by a medical supply place, and pick up a waterproof on-off toggle with 7/8" bar mount. ( *** footnote for everyone hunting for switch gear - many power wheelchairs use 7/8" bars and they're 24vdc, so the mounts, and electronics all work great on bikes) |
Bosh
| Posted on Tuesday, September 12, 2006 - 03:08 pm: |
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Ulendo, I like your mount location. One of the best I've seen. Good idea on the switchgear also. Only problem I can see is the light mounts may prevent your turn signals from properly shaking and bobbing up and down while you're idling at stop lights. |
Ulendo
| Posted on Wednesday, September 13, 2006 - 01:19 pm: |
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bosh - the stems aren't rigid mounted, and still flex. because I use my bike on rough trails, maintaining that flex was an intentional part of my mounting criteria. the 'L' shape of the angle stock goes around the back of the stem, but doesnt quite touch. the heads of the locknuts are REALLY close, but again, due to the nature of my riding they have to be locknutted - the stock is drilled and tapped, the bolts thread in from underneath, and the nuts you see are stover type locknuts. maybe these 2 photos will explain it better:
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Fubar
| Posted on Wednesday, September 13, 2006 - 02:14 pm: |
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I love this! Still not clear how the stock is mounted to the stem base. |
Bosh
| Posted on Wednesday, September 13, 2006 - 03:00 pm: |
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Ulendo, I was just kidding about the bouncy part. Thanks for the additional pics. Great job on the design!! (and build). |
Ulendo
| Posted on Wednesday, September 13, 2006 - 05:42 pm: |
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you need a welder to build the mounts - hopefully these 2 pics explain..
its the stem / through bolt from the signal light that holds everything in place, right through the factory mounting tang (Message edited by ulendo on September 13, 2006) |
Ulendo
| Posted on Wednesday, September 13, 2006 - 07:38 pm: |
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oh, and while I'm at it, everyone's so concerned about how to mount the lights - here's my solution to mounting an auxiliary switch panel...
1.5"x3.5" cast aluminum electronics project box, mounted using a pair of 1/2" long 1/4-20 bolts in holes I drilled and tapped into the centerpiece of the handlebar top clamp. ( CityX doesn't have the logo there...) |
Retired_cop
| Posted on Wednesday, September 13, 2006 - 08:28 pm: |
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SLICK !!!!!!!!!!!!!! One of the cleanest and most ingenious mounts I've seen. Great job! |
Ulendo
| Posted on Wednesday, September 13, 2006 - 08:56 pm: |
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thanks! Its always nice to know that others appreciate this stuff. |
Glenn
| Posted on Wednesday, September 13, 2006 - 09:09 pm: |
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Great looking and clean installation. Where did you get the aluminum project box for the switch? I think this would be great for lights and heated grips that I'm planning on adding. |
Ulendo
| Posted on Wednesday, September 13, 2006 - 09:59 pm: |
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I picked up the box from a local electronics supply place - box, rubberized switch, and high flex cable all came from the same place. The prepainted, and powdercoated versions are way overpriced. ( I used Krylon gloss black, which seems to match the bar nicely) some stuff I had on hand, but I'd guess total cost was about $20 canadian for all the bits: its not the cheapest way to go, but I consider reasonable for a setup thats solid, clean, and durable. FWIW, I intentionally got a box big enough to handle a few switches...there's some other toys I'd like to hardwire on, too. |
Xbimmer
| Posted on Wednesday, September 13, 2006 - 11:46 pm: |
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Hey guys, thanks for the input on this! Pretty good ingenuity here. Still might improvise something of my own since I'm leaning toward rectangular Hellas. Ulendo, Krylon rules! I have parts on my BMW I painted 20 years ago that still look great. Just have to make sure the surface is really ready, and hot application works well. |