| Author | Message | ||
     44mag2 |
How far do you need to pull your clutch lever before it disengages? Mine disengages soon ... after about 20-25% of the full range. Is this normal? I am just wondering if I need a clutch adjustment. How can I tell if my clutch is adjusted properly? | ||
| Davo |
1/16"-1/8" cable play at the lever after 1/4- 1/2 turn of slack on the adjustment screw inside the inspection cover. Make sure you loosen the cable to the point where the lever can be pulled about 1/2 way before any tension is felt before you make the 1/4 turn adjustment inside the cover. Then readjust the cable to 1/6"-1/8" play. This cable adjustment is made at the rubber boot on the clutch cable at the front of the engine. When you pull the inspection cover there is a nut with a spring attached to it , do not loose it. It is the lock plate that keeps the adjustment screw from turning after assembly. It is held in place by the cover. Turn the adjustment screw counterclockwise until it lightly bottoms out the go 1/4-1/2 turn clockwise. Be very careful with the cover screws. Do not over tighten them. I think the torque spec is 84 INCH-lbs. but I only go 72 INCH- lbs. THAT IS INCH-LBS NOT FOOT-LBS. Use a #27 torx driver and go "screw driver" tight with you wrist not your arm! | ||
| Jackbequick |
The normal adjustment sequence is to slack the lever freeplay adjustment (make the lever floppy at the bar), do the clutch adjusting screw behind the derby cover, then do the lever freeplay adjustment on the cable (I'd add checking the primary chain freeplay to the front of that sequence, but that is just me). You can check the lever freeplay adjustment as it is now by firmly gripping the fitting on the end of the clutch cable where it enters the clutch lever perch and pulling it away from the perch as much as you can. If that is adjusted right you should only be able to pull it out 1/16" to 1/8" inch with a cold engine (maybe a little more warmed up). If yours is starting to slip under power at 25%, it might be right as long as you are getting full lockup lever out and full disengagement with no pulling at stop with the lever against the grip. But you still need to have that small gap when you pull out on the cable end. That is what ensures that the bearing on the adjuster screw is not under a running load full time. That will cause the bearing to fail. If you can't get full disengagement and no pulling with the freeplay adjustment right, then you need to start at the beginning of the process and do both adjustments. Jack | ||
| Darrell_ks |
If your not absolutely certain you are comfortable doing the work, take it to the dealer. I had not touched mine (would rather ride than wrench) and had the clutch go out at 2800 miles. Dealership got it warranty repaired, but was told that it was very unusual to warranty a clutch. |
