| Author | Message | ||
     Keyser_soze |
Well not exactly Strippers but those inclined to strip their oil plug. As a Beemer refugee I am still a die hard torque wrench fan. I am aware of at least one other member stripping their oil drain plug. I was making sure to torque the drain plug just below the lowest recommended spec from the service manual. Well right as it snugged up it pulled an exorcist and just kept on spinning. I was able to find a temporary self expanding rubber plug to use until I get a timesert. Luckily forum member Chad Hargis was ready and willing to come to my aid and send me the timesert kit he used to fix his plug. Based on how easy the threads stripped I urge extreme caution and a much lower toque spec than the manual recommends. Buell really needs to place a timesert in from the factory to prevent this from ever being an issue. Thanks in advance to Chad for saving the trip that I planned for next weekend. Hopefully my wrenching skills are up to the task. | ||
| Paul56 |
I drilled the head of the drain plug on mine and use a piece of .032" stainless safety wire to safety the plug to the exhaust outlet heat shield. Run the plug in by fingers until the o-ring hits its seat. Use a standard length box wrench to run the bolt in until it seats metal to metal. Go just a little (JUST A LITTLE!) past that to snug it up. Install the safety wire so that it tends to tighten the plug (pulls in a clockwise direction) to the heat shield. Always use a new o-ring ($0.25 ea. at the dealer). You'll never have a problem with stripped threads or a loosening drain plug. | ||
| Captain_nartman |
Dayum... Thought I was Gonna Get a Lap-Dance when I Opened this thread. N x  | ||
| Roadrailer |
Run the plug in by fingers until the o-ring hits its seat. Use a standard length box wrench to run the bolt in until it seats metal to metal. Go just a little (JUST A LITTLE!) past that to snug it up. This is pretty much how I've always tightened oil pan plugs on every vehicle I've ever worked on, although I use a small wrench (to reduce leverage). Never used a torque wrench, and never had a bolt back out or leak. I wonder if there's any way the combination of thread sealant AND the rubber o-ring(overkill, if you ask me)could affect the torque reading? | ||
| Chris_in_tn |
I have never used a torque wrench on any drain plug and have never had a problem with a plug backing out, or stripping the threads. Just tighten it down with a small wrench by feel. With a short wrench you should be able to tell by feel when to stop. | ||
| Davo |
The book specifies 29-34 ft-lbs. which it way too tight. I use 12-14 ft-lbs! I think the same person that wrote the torque specs wired and timed my bike. Pings when it is hot and clear and misses and cuts off wen it rains. You can use my Uly as a weather station. | ||
| Chadhargis |
I have the Time Sert box in hand and will ship it to you overnight today. You should have it tomorrow in time for your trip. | ||
| 44mag |
I torqued mine to 20 ft-lbs. I want to find an insert with a separate center that unscrews so that I do not need to be paranoid about the threads. Any idea where I can get one? I went to the local NAPA store, but they do not have the right size. | ||
| Keyser_soze |
Thanks Chad. Hopefully I can get it fitted with no complications. | ||
| 44mag |
What are the specs of the timesert you used? I am sure that I will need that info someday.  | ||
| Keyser_soze |
I'll have to have Chad answer that. Chad was a lifesaver overnighting the kit to me. The install was straight forward and fairly easy. I don't expect to have any further issues with the drain plug now. I will be using a much lower torque spec to be on the safe side. More in line with the tranny plug specs. Stefhan | ||
| Chadhargis |
http://www.timesert.com/html/drainplug.html It's the first kit on the list...1/2 x 20. |
