| Author | Message | ||
     Midnightrider |
about a month ago I noticed a little film of oil on the clutch cable where it enters the housing. as i was already taking it in for an oil change, i asked them to check it out. "no leak found" documented on the repair invoice. still find an occasional trace there from time to time and since i need to take it in for the 5K service soon i figured i'd note it again. today i come home after the bike was sitting still since Thursday and find a nickel-sized spot on the floor - looks like it ran down the cable to the lowest point then dropped off looks like the leak is from where the plastic itself enters the fitting. will it do any good to try to tighten the fitting? since i don't have a new gasket to replace if i pull the cover to check levels, should i just trailer it (20 miles) and have the 5K done a few hundred miles early? i know my questions are sometimes stupid, but this is how I learn! | ||
| Whodom |
The fitting seals on an o-ring where it enters the primary housing. You can try and tighten it a little, but BE CAREFUL. The clutch cable end fitting is made of aluminum and will wring off VERY easily (ask me how I know). The seals on the primary inspection covers are also o-rings and don't need to be replaced every time. You can check levels and replace the cover without a problem. It doesn't sound like you've lost enough oil to worry about. | ||
| Midnightrider |
cool thank you very much! | ||
| Jackbequick |
The metal primary gaskets (they have a coating of some type on them) are reusable. I've had mine on and off a couple of times, others have indicated even more removal/replacement cycles. Jack (Message edited by jackbequick on May 09, 2006) | ||
| Midnightrider |
Well, I removed the gear shift linkage so I could get a wrench on the cable fitting - turned it half a turn, still leaks (slooooowly- maybe a drop overnight). Pulled the inspection cover and found I had sufficient tranny fluid. At least I did until I spilled about two teaspoon fulls because I didn't hold the bike level. 2 questions - Since I was leveling the bike with one hand and turning torx screws with the other I didn't notice a gasket. Is it bonded to the cover? When I popped the inspection cover off, it really popped. 45 minutes later I found the spring which had sprung no less than 6 feet and rolled under the garage door (it was up about 4 inches) and rolled another 15 feet down the driveway. Doesn't look like there is any secret to placing the spring - is there? | ||
| Debueller |
The spring is there to hold in the hex shaped dohickey that locks the clutch adjustment screw from turning. Make sure that it is still there. The spring should slightly "seat" on the dohickey while you gently place the cover on. There is a gasket, they say to replace it every time you remove the cover. I replace mine about every 3 or 4 times. The worse that could happen would be another oil leak.  | ||
| Midnightrider |
Debueller. yes - i did get the spring to fit just right and stay put. kind of a balancing act. i don't see how that could lock anything in place put I don't want to take it off again | ||
| Midnightrider |
question about the fluid level - the shop manual p1-24 shows the fluid should be even with the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring. the pic shows little teeth on the spring - and the correct fluid level is barely covered. WTF?? | ||
| Jackbequick |
Midnightrider, The thing that looks like little teeth is the edge of the clutch basket. It has square corrugations that the teeth on the clutch driving plates drop in to. So that is what you are seeing. The clutch diaphram spring is a black or dark steel plate that rests on the top clutch disk and is slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the corrugated basket. Sort of hard to spot in the dark but a flashlight will help. If the lube is just slightly above the corrugations it should be about right. The level is read with both wheels on the ground and the bike held vertical, using a centerstand will get it vertical but it will also make it look a little bit low when it is right. Can you tell, is there a small O-ring trapped between the clutch cable fitting and the primary housing? That is really what gives you a good seal there and eliminates the inclination to overtighten that to get a seal. If you were missing the O-ring that might be your problem. You can probably get a universal O-ring at the auto parts store if you need to replace it. Just get a 1/16" or so ring with about a 3/8" or so I.D. Jack | ||
| Midnightrider |
Jack thanks a lot! the o ring should be outside, correct? no, I don't see one ( or feel one with a pick - its all metal to metal I think) just to clarify - the leak is not between the housing and the clutch cable fitting, it is where the black plastic sheath enters the fitting. does that make sense? if I wanted to install one (o ring) I would have to remove the outer ramp and hook from the cable end (figure 6.3)and back the clutch cable fitting out, draw the clutch cable end out of the primary housing, slip the o ring over the cable end, then put the cable end back through the housing, torque down the fitting, then reattach the cable end to the to the outer ramp and hook. i really appreciate the advice. i called three dealers and the earliest appointment i can get is May 25th don | ||
| Whodom |
MNR, The o-ring is captured between the metal fitting on the end of the clutch cable and the primary cover. I believe there's a slight bevel where it seats in the primary cover. You won't be able to see it with the clutch fitting screwed in. Yes, you have the correct procedure for replacing it. OTOH, if the fluid is seeping between the metal clutch cable end fitting and the plastic sheath of the clutch cable, I can't see where replacing the o-ring is gonna do any good. It certainly won't hurt to replace the o-ring, but for the minute amount of leakage you're talking about, I'd ride it until May 25th and then get it checked under warranty. They may need to replace the clutch cable. Good luck. | ||
| Midnightrider |
that's what i was thinking. i'm on the way to get some fluid; i can't get a service appointment until the 25th. if i take my finger and run it down the cable i will pick up a smear - maybe 1-2cc - every 8 hours or so. would i expect it to leak more while it was running? any possibility it would help (or hurt) to put a good healthy bead of silicon around the leaking spot? or duct tape, even? | ||
| Whodom |
MNR, Silicone or duct tape can't hurt anything. If you want to go to the trouble to temporarily detach the cable, a piece of heat-shrink tubing (perhaps over a light bead of silicone) might fix it permanently. BTW, are you sure the oil is leaking at that end? I was just thinking it's possible the dealer thoroughly lubed your clutch cable when they serviced it, and the cable lube is actually leaking out at the adjustment point near the front of the bike under the accordian rubber thingie and running down the outside of the cable to this point. (Message edited by whodom on May 11, 2006) | ||
| Midnightrider |
good point who the lowest point of the cable is midway between the accordion and the fitting. the cable is clean and dry from the accordion down. the bottom of the cable is wet from the fitting to the lowpoint- its definitely coming from the fitting. i like the shrink wrap idea - just wondering how much work it will be to detach the and reattach the cable end. first i have to rig up something to hold the bike level - i haven't got (yet) a jack or rear wheel stand. I have some cargo straps to use i just have to find something solid to attach them to. | ||
| Whodom |
Detaching and reattaching a cable is about a 30 minute job IIRC. Most of the effort is in adjusting the clutch correctly when putting it back together (2 different adjustments). Heck, electrical tape might work fine (provided you can get the cable thoroughly clean long enough to install it) or maybe some of that special "bonds to itself" electrical tape. Either of those would save you from having to disconnect the cable. | ||
| Debueller |
While we are on the subject of cable lube. Am I correct in assumming that when you lube the clutch cable, is the nasty gunk in the cable being dumped into the primary case? I'm a little anal about having smooth clutch operation so I lube my cable about every 3K mi., it really makes a difference on lever pull effort and cable life, and it only takes about 10 minutes. I know on my dirt bikes some awful nasty lookin' stuff comes out of the end of the cable during a good flushing.:hmmm: | ||
| Midnightrider |
i think i'll try the tape first - my frustration quotient is very high now. off topic - i was trying to remove the passenger grab handles to defeat the triple tail lock mechanism. i just can't get the screw underneath the seat to budge...... | ||
| Whodom |
Am I correct in assumming that when you lube the clutch cable, is the nasty gunk in the cable being dumped into the primary case? Debueller, Yep, that's where it goes. You could just make your practice to always lube your clutch cable immediately prior to changing the primary oil. MNR, that sounds like a good plan. You do NOT want to be tightening that aluminum clutch cable fitting when you are frustrated. | ||
| Debueller |
YUCK | ||
| Crusty |
Wow; talk about making mountains out of molehills! Midnight, just ride the flippin' thing. It's not leaking enough to cause the slightest problem whatsoever. When you take it in for it's service, tell the dealer about it and let them fix it. Just to put the size of your oil leak in perspective, try the following: take an eye dropper and fill it with oil. Now drop two drops on the pavement and walk away and have a cup of coffee. When you come back, those two drops will look like a much bigger amount of oil than they really are. With a leak that size, I wouldn't be the slightest bit afraid to ride from San Diego to Portland, Maine. | ||
| Dragon_slayer |
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