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Chadhargis
| Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 11:29 am: |
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I've got just a tick over 3000 miles on my bike and it's doing great with one exception. When I first start it, it idles low (800 rpm or so). Occasionally, it will stall unless I feed it some throttle when I hear the RPMs drop. This is not only on the first start of the day, but any start where the bike has cooled down a bit. Once up to normal operating temp, it runs fine and idles at 1050-1150 range (as verified by TechnoResearch software). Shouldn't the ECM know it's cold and bump the idle up? It's really annoying that I can't warm my bike up anymore without sitting on it and feeding it a small bit of throttle to keep it running. If I try to ride off, it sputters and coughs a little if I don't let it warm up a bit. It's also embarrassing when it stalls while I'm putting my helmet and gloves on. When I warm it up for it's oil change, I'm going hook the computer up and do a TPS reset which will require a idle reset too. This is a new thing that's only been happening the last few rides, so I'm guess something vibrated out of whack. Anyone have any suggestions? |
Thunderbox
| Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 11:38 am: |
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Get rid of it Chad. Not worth the heartache. Someone will buy it on ebay. Get a real bike. Just kidding. Cold weather I know about. I can tell you mine doesn't exibite any of those traits. Start up at 32 is easy and bike idles perfect at about 1050. No problem with pulling away when cold either, not too cold I let it idle a fair amount at that temp before riding off. Just don't like to work a bike before the temp is up. Something is definately amiss with your ride Chad. Let us know what you find. |
Chadhargis
| Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 12:03 pm: |
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Yeah, mine has always been just like you describe. No issues when cold at all and I've started it in below freezing weather many times. I crank it up, then put on my gear while it warms up. I can't do that now. Hopefully it just needs a TPS. |
Stevenknapp
| Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 12:11 pm: |
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Mine does that. Actually it first runs well, then does what you describe, then runs well again. I just swapped the rear plug. Remember my fiasco at the start with fouling plugs? I only changed the front as it was the one not firing. The rear looked good, but I figured for $3 I'd make sure it was "good" too. I've not ridden it yet, but I did start it and let it idle a bit. It didn't do that "dip" thing. Let me know what you find. |
Jackbequick
| Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 01:31 pm: |
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I like the idle speed adjuster (aka warmup with no hands adjuster) on the tubers. Can you take a small piece of rubber tubing or something and stick it between the grip flare and switch housing to hold it at a fast idle? I like to keep mine at 1,500-2,000 RPM for a full minute or two. Jack |
Chadhargis
| Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 01:56 pm: |
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On fuel injected bikes, this shouldn't be necessary. The ECU should know what RPM the engine is running, and it should know the engine temp. It should automatically adjust it for you, just like my FJR did. When you cranked my FJR, it would idle at about 2000 rpm for maybe 10 or 15 seconds, then settle down to 1500 or so, then after a minute or so, it would drop again to it's 1000rpm idle....the way God intended. I'm hoping the plugs aren't fouled. I've never started the bike using the throttle, and I'm always careful never to horse the throttle at idle. Plugs in my Ducati are a year old and still going fine. I changed the stock plugs in my FJR after 16,000 miles and they were fine. Can't imagine that the plugs would be shot. Guess I could pull them and look, or just go ahead and replace them since getting to them is a pain in the butt. |
Stevenknapp
| Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 01:59 pm: |
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The Buell does not have control over idle speed by throttle/airflow. Mine does idle a bit high at first, then drops. |
Chadhargis
| Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 02:33 pm: |
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It does have control over fuel input though. It knows the throttle position, and it knows the RPM, so it stands to reason that the ECU should change the mixture to better aid cold running. |
Solarbri
| Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 03:08 pm: |
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Hey Chad, I just gave my bike its' second tps reset at 2600 miles (first one at 800 miles)....WOW. It's like a whole new bike! For whatever reason things did get out of whack between the first reset and the last. Now things are smooth as butter! I bet you'll have the same results! |
Stevenknapp
| Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 05:07 pm: |
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It can change the mixture and alter ignition timing, but it's hard to alter idle speed too much without air control as well. |
Chadhargis
| Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 05:40 pm: |
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Wonder how my FJR did it? It's ECU had no control over the throttle bodies. All it did was enrichen the mixture (hold the injector open longer) to simulate a choke. I'm betting the TPS reset will fix it. Like I said, it's a new thing and I don't have any issues with it when it's warm or when I'm riding. |
Fastfxrs
| Posted on Tuesday, April 25, 2006 - 08:16 am: |
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My bike has always idled a tick under 1000 rpm when cold and right at 1050 when warm. I did have some hard starts right after I picked the bike up in late Feb. 2300 mi. on it now and I still haven't had the TPS reset. I was waiting till my Special Ops muffler was installed (its coming Friday!) even though Odie says it doesn't need a reset just for the pipe. After talking to the dealership, I'm a little nervous about having them touch it. I should try changing plugs as I did smell alot of raw fuel after one of the hard starts. What is the number of the NGK iridium plugs that are supposed to resist fouling so well? Good luck with your fix Chad. Tim |
Chadhargis
| Posted on Tuesday, April 25, 2006 - 12:03 pm: |
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Been thinking about changing to iridium plugs. They won't give you any extra performance, but should last longer. |
Stevenknapp
| Posted on Tuesday, April 25, 2006 - 01:09 pm: |
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The good ones (Denso Iridium's) don't really last longer. They give up the longer life for a thinner center electrode. They did help my RT run better, espically when cold. I've been tempted to try them in the Uly. |
Chadhargis
| Posted on Tuesday, April 25, 2006 - 08:49 pm: |
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Did a little experiment today. I cranked the bike, and let it die (just to make sure it would). Then I cranked it again. As it was starting to die, I turned up the idle a bit, just enough to keep it running. Went for a ride, and the bike was fine. Didn't idle any higher when it was warm. Guess it was an easy fix. |
Stevenknapp
| Posted on Monday, May 01, 2006 - 05:25 pm: |
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I tried the same. Worked, but did note that if you don't shut the bike off it will idle higher when warm...weird.. |
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