| Author | Message | ||
     Debueller |
This happened a couple of months ago and hasen't happened since. Maybe someone could explain what is going on. I went to start my Uly after taking a quick break to look at a map. I pressed the starter button and the engine hesitated to turn over for a second or two like the starter/battery was struggling to overcome engine compression. I continued to hold the button and the entire electrical system went dead. No lights, starter, idiot lights, nothing. I turned off the key then turned it back on, no gauge sweep......nothing. It seemed like a bad battery connection so I removed the seat to check the battery and as soon as I turned on the key everything worked as normal. When I got home I double checked the batt. connections. I also checked all the cable connections and they were tight. I had been leaving my heated grips turned on (22watts) and heated jacket liner also (77watts). These are both running off the acc. port circuit which does not cut the power during starter operation. It's a hassle, but I now turn off all accessories when cranking the bike. I and have only experenced this the one time. My friends ride a ZRX1200R, 950 Adventure, and a Concours. They have their heated gear connected directly to the battery. They all crank their bikes with everything turned on with on problems. Did a breaker trip then reset it's self when I took the time to remove the seat? Is this just a Buell thing? Is the electrical system that close to it's limits that when under certain conditions the system needs to shut down to avoid being overloaded? Has anyone had similar problems? Maybe there is something else that needs to be checked? Thanks for any suggestions, Jerry | ||
| Jackbequick |
Warmed up engines have more compression, that can cause the slow cranking if it has to defeat a compression stroke from rest. Some bigger H-D V-Twins use compression releases to get a running start on compression. It sounds like you drew enough to trip the 30A breaker and then it reset itself while you were getting the seat off. You might want to consider wiring your accessories through a relay like the #16074 12V DC High Inrush Relay sold by Al Lighton at American Sport Bike (on the sponsor's page). That will take the load off of your accessory wiring which is getting a little overloaded with what you have on it. With the relay wired to close with switch in the accessory position, your load will still be on the battery when you are starting and you would still have to turn things off manually to reduce the load. But you won't be running the risk of over drawing that not very big (16 or 18 Ga.?) wiring on the accessory fuse run. If I put the grips and jacket on the relay (rated at 30A IIRC) I'd fuse each one separately and appropriately with inline fuse holders. You could use the accessory wiring to energize the relay and add a switch in that run. Then use that as an accessory "master off" switch to shut down all accessory loads (for cranking) with the ignition on. Jack | ||
| Debueller |
I've considered using a relay but maybe using the headlight circuit to operate the relay because the headlight goes out when cranking the engine. This would also keep me from leaving the heated grips on and killing my battery when the key is off. Then the "master" switch would keep the relay from being energized any time the headlight is on...great idea. Also, by using the headlight circuit that would keep the relay itself from draining the battery. I like to avoid adding any additional wiring to any motor vehicle, thats why I like to use the factory acc port. Its too bad it dosen't turn off when cranking the engine. With the weather getting warmer the need for the heated gear will not be necessary for a while. But before next winter I am going to make some changes.....I just haven't decided which way to go. Any time an electrical circuit loads to the point that a breaker trips says something was almost pushed beyond it's limit. I wonder if anyone has experenced the same problem? | ||
| Debueller |
BTW, Jack, the thing about an engine having more compression when hot. I noticed when cold the engine turns over better. When hot it seems to struggle for a second or so as if to overcome the "extra" compression. It also seems to have quite a "lump" of rotating mass to get rolling in there as well.  | ||
| Jackbequick |
I've never noticed if my headlight goes out when cranking or not. I'm using the "P" (Parking?) position wiring for my GPS now (my only accessory, a very low draw). But I'll use a relay and add some grip heaters and an electric vest outlet before this fall if I keep the bike. I've noticed on a couple of recent 2 to 4 hour rides that the M2 is a sport bike. I'd like to start taking some multi day rides and I'm thinking I'd like to have something a little more comfortable to do that on. On the starting lag, my M2 is exactly the same way. Sometimes I notice nothing when the engine is cold, but I almost always get some hesitation warm. I suppose when you shut it off that a piston will often cost to a stop against compression and that puts it in the worst place for the next start. Anyone else remember when the Grand Prix bike races started with push starts? They would push them backwards against compression to get a running start on compression at the start. Jack | ||
| Stevenknapp |
FYI, the accessory plugs on the bike is already wired via it's own dedicated relay. | ||
| Roadrailer |
I don't know much about electrical systems, but I can't imagine a 100 watt draw during startup is helping anything. Why not just flip the gear off before starting the bike? | ||
| Galloper |
 | ||
| Jackbequick |
Steve, The Uly already has a relay and an outlet? I didn't know that. On my M2 there is an Accessories fuse that is only for the stuff that comes on in the "P" position of the ignition switch. That was only the taillight and instrument lights until I added the GPS to the run. That's why I mentioned adding the relay. Jack | ||
| Lorazepam |
Ive never had a problem starting my bike with a heated vest, grips, and GPS on. I have the vest wired directly to the battery, and the Grips are wired go off with the key. I also have a set of driving lights that are switched to the key as well. Are your battery terminals good and clean? even with a new bike, if they arent good and tight, corrosion will build up, causing what you describe. Also check the connection to the starter. A poor ground, or power connection there can cause what you describe. I used to build small block Chevys, and when the engine would get hot, you hoped the stock starter would turn it over enough to get it running. Not a problem when it was cold though. | ||
| Stevenknapp |
Ya, there are two outlets, one under the seat, one on the dash. They are wired together and switched by their own relay. | ||
| Adrian_8 |
I run about the same stuff ..heated jacket liner at 77 watts and heated gloves at 22 watts both are getting juice off the front plug...I have noticed that when I come home and put the ULY on the battery tender it takes about 15 minutes to bring the battery back up to full charge. When I don't use the electric stuff it will pop right over to "storage". The electric clothes seem to work the system pretty hard.I always keep the battery plugged up after using the heated clothing. | ||
| Thunderbox |
The first thing you need to check is the battery. Have it tested to find out if it can hold a load. When faced with any electrical gremlins always check the battery first. | ||
| Debueller |
Roadrailer, I did start flipping off all the gear ![: ]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif) when cranking the bike....it's just a hassle. also, none of my other ridin' buddies turn anything off on their bikes when cranking. Lorazpam, The bike will be out of commission for a little while while I do the 10k mi service. I will check all batt./starter/solenoid/ground connections at that time. I used to have a van with a sbc in it with headers and I know what you are saying about o'heated starters.  Adrian, I use a battery tender also. I've also noticed how the cooling fan tends to pull the battery down a little which makes it take a while to go into "storage" mode. The cooling fan running during a 2 or 3 minute stop just compounds the "hot cranking" issue. Thunderbox, Checking the batt. is a good idea. I would probally need to take it to the dealer under warranty to have it done(the bike is only 6 mo. old). I'm not sure how to do that properly myself. Its only done this to me one time. Maybe it was just a fluke? :dunno: Thanks everyone for your suggestions, Jerry | ||
| Thunderbox |
If it happened once it will happen again. Murphys law says it will happen when you least want it to or when you are in a hurry or have a life altering appointment or a job interview. Get the battery checked asap. Don't let this slide or you will be angry when it bites you. |
