| Author | Message | ||
     Grimace308 |
its going to take them 2 days for my 1000 mile service...wtf, over? its going to cost me $300 for my 1000 mile service...wtf, over? my lowseat has always gone on real easy, but my @ss starts to hurt after 4 hours ...wtf, over? the orange pumpkin has more than enough stock torque for this fat old man, but it needs a 6th gear...wtf, over? i cant get over 34mpg...wtf, over? some assclown rolled his window down and asked me if it was a motorcycle or a dirtbike...wtf, over? | ||
| Fubar |
2 Days - More like 3 hours $300 - Um yeah...maybe. Depends on where you live Low seat - Can't comment 6th gear - Why? 34 MPG - At least mid 40's from day one. Assclown - 'nuff said | ||
| Roadrailer |
its going to cost me $300 for my 1000 mile service There is nothing in the first service that should cost that much. They are screwing you, plain and simple. Have them detail, line by line, why this service costs so much. Money says they can't, or give you some bullshit line. No way I'd pay that much for the 1,000 mile service. I thought I was getting raped at $200. Spend the $300 on the tools you need to do the job yourself. | ||
| Adrian_8 |
My 1000K cost me $126.00 but I told them no oil or filter as I had just changed the engine and trans. Mine has never got worse than 45mpg and its get run as a very "sporting pace". Sporting enough that the tires is gone at less than 2200 miles..in fact my new Scorpions came today..6gear...totally unnecessary. | ||
| Grimace308 |
yall think 6th gear is unnecessary till you start getting in the low 30s for gas mileage. :P slab 25.2miles to work and slab 25.2miles back home. 70-80mph both ways and im shaped like a freaking mutant, 6'1" 245lbs with a 30" inseam...A 30" INSEAM! wtf, over? i have a very long wide torso and i make a very good sail/drogue chute. i would really like a 6th gear for the commute. between the $300 bucks and the 2 stinking days i am jaded enough that i might just buy the service manual and do it myself...does the service manual detail what and how, to do, the 1000 mile service?...and the rest of the regularly scheduled services? i assume im mechanically inclined enough to muddle through it as the only time ive laid the orange pumpkin over, was by accident.  thanks, chris | ||
| Jim_sb |
I agree, a 1k service shouldn't cost that much. But I'm not ready to spring for the TPS reset equipment and software this week, so I'm gonna let the dealer handle it. Call it warranty "insurance". After that I'll take care of *everything* like I have with my previous Buell, previous Harley, and my current dirt bike. I don't want to get into a debate with the dealer over their charges - they charge what they think is fair and I "vote" with my dollars. The bottom line? They charge about $250 for a Sportster's first service and in their opinion the Ulysses takes longer. Having owned a Sportster and multiple Buells I *agree*. The Buells take longer. Regards, Jim in Santa Barbara | ||
| Cygnus_x1 |
Remove big weight from top of bike! Experience new found improvement on MPG! ? | ||
| Jim_sb |
It is my understanding that you need a laptop computer, a special cable and the software to do the TPS reset. It's written up on Badweb - just do a search for the details. The rest of it, AFAIK, is normal maintenance that wouldn't concern me. Regards, Jim in Santa Barbara | ||
| Jim_sb |
There are very few motorcycles made today that wouldn't benefit from a 6th gear. Whether it's a dirt bike or a street bike. It simply allows you to operate the bike in your desired rpm range in a wider speed range. For 80 - 90mph freeway cruising an 6th gear "overdrive" would be nice. OR For some low speed control off pavement on a slippery / tricky off camber section a lower first gear would be nice. A 6 speed could in theory allow a slightly lower first gear and a taller top gear as well. Do I *need* it? No. Obviously HD is listening to it's customers though, which is why one of their new models (the Dyna?) has the 6 speed right from the factory. Regards, Jim in Santa Barbara | ||
| Windrider |
Grimace, The service manual is very nicely done. This bike is easy to work on yourself. That was one of the main reasons that I chose it over the KTM950 and BMW GS. However, that 1K service is an important milestone to the dealers. Especially if you have any warranty problems later on. I plan to have it dealer serviced at 1K and take over from there myself. I can't imagine getting that poor of gas mileage on a Uly.... I would mention it to the dealer and see if something is messed with the FI or interactive valve in the muffler when you are in for the 1K service. Happy Trails..... Over. | ||
| Thunderbox |
You must have a problem with the timing or something to get that poor of mileage. I get 60 mpg 2 up. now thats imperial gallons so it would be 48 mpg to a US gallon. Might be a good idea to have the dealer look at that. | ||
| Lowflyer |
I commute on mine everyday as well. I have no need for a 6th gear at all. Mine gets a solid 50 mpg. Two days for the first service is unreasonable. It takes about 3 hours according to my dealer. I waited in the dealership. My appointment was for 1pm and I left at 4pm. The stock seat is mui comfortable for my 31-in inseam. I'm 5'10" 210 lbs. I think this bike was made custom for me. Suck it up...over  | ||
| Chadhargis |
I am 6'5", 225lbs (maybe 235 with gear on) and I find no need for a 6th gear. In fact, I rarely use 5th unless I'm doing highway/interstate droaning, and even then you need to be doing about 70mph before 5th is needed. I ride VERY aggressively and the worst mileage I've seen has been 43mpg. The best, 47mpg. Even with the race kit, I'm getting about 43mpg still. Never seen it get in the 30's. | ||
| Daves |
If you are only getting 30s for mileage there is something not right? 300 for a 1K is too much | ||
| Adrian_8 |
My thoughts on the 6 speed...the ULY turns less rpm in 5th at 70 (that is where I checked the difference) than a GS12000 does with a 6 speed. Lots of R1200GS owners want a 7 speed. The old R1150 GS has a true overdrive 6 speed that really dropped off to a high ratio in 6th gear.. In the American Iron Magazine April issue, page 48 is basically says the new Dyna six speed is the same as the old 5 speed in top gear.. The lower cruising rpm was gained by a new primary ratio, which could have been done with the 5speed with the new primary ratio. | ||
| Chadhargis |
The old 1150GS 6th gear was an absolute waste of time. I put nearly 20,000 miles on my 1150GS, and the only time you could use 6th gear was on the slab going downhill with a tail wind. The first sign of an uphill rise, or a need to pass, and you'd have to go down a gear or two. The Ulysses DOES NOT need a 6th gear. The engine redlines at 6800rpm. At 80mph in fifth gear, I'm no where near that RPM. Even at 90 or 100 you're not anywhere close to redline. Everyone needs to understand that lugging the engine around at 3000rpm or below is MORE harmful than spinning it up to 4000 or 5000. You don't want to lug your engine, and a 6th gear would do just that unless you were running super legal speeds on flat roads....which some of you may do, but at those speeds with the engine lugging down under where it makes the best power, you'll be stressing the engine just trying to overcome wind resistance. I think 5th is fine for all day 80-90mph cruising. Now...that gap between 3rd and 4th gear could use some tweaking. | ||
| Jim_sb |
I think the break in instructions are contrary to that, Chad. IIRC they want you to keep the bike under 3k rpm. I agree that it's bad to lug an engine, but running at 2800rpm doesn't mean it's being lugged. Regards, Jim in Santa Barbara | ||
| Adrian_8 |
If I am not mistaken,(senior memory disorder) my ULY is turning 4400 at 90mph. The 6th gear is not needed, more is not better, if you have enough power and torque to handle it. It is nice not having to shift the extra time into 6th. | ||
| Chadhargis |
Breaking in a bike by the book is one of the WORST things you can do to it. I still don't know why manufacturers print them. It's been proven time and time again by folks like "Motoman" and others that breaking in a bike hard with frequent oil changes is the best way to do it. Don't take my word for it. Read the facts and see the pictures here: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/NewBike.html The above links weren't created by a graphic artist told to layout an owners manual that was approved by a legal team. They were written by people who have real world experience using the procedure on several bikes. Who do you trust? I broke in two new bikes by the book and they both burned oil and one was WAY down on power. I've broken in two more new bikes the Motoman way, and both have little to no oil usage, and run great. The proof is in the pudding. Don't lug your engine, especially when it's new. Keep it spinning! | ||
| Lowflyer |
If you read it on the Internet, it must be true. I trust the OEM. They have no interest in causing my motor to burn oil or otherwise suck. I stuck to the book and mine works fine. I don't discount the Motoman method on merit, but Motoman does not provide a warranty. | ||
| Jim_sb |
Hello Chad, I have no quarrels with your taking the Motoman route. It's certainly more fun. However my bike, like Lowflyer's, seems to be running peachy using Buell's recommendations. As for "who do I trust"? Well, Buell is giving me a 2 year warranty, so I trust them. Additionally I traded emails with the best Buell engine guy I know and he recommended following the Buell recommendations. Anyway, I trust him more than I do Motoman. It is of course entirely possible that both methods can be successful in individual circumstances, or that both can fail. We should make it a point to compare notes after we all get 50k or more on our Uly's. Then perhaps some conclusions to this gentlemanly debate will become more evident. Regards, Jim in Santa Barbara | ||
| Chadhargis |
I don't believe everything I read on the net, but I believe things that make sense to me and are backed up by fact and most importantly evidence (such as the photos on Motoman's site). I've experienced the carbon build up shown on Motoman's site first hand when I broke in a bike "by the book". It is a topic of much debate, but I feel like bike makers want you to break the engine in "easy" for several reasons, none of which apply to the health of the engine. 1) If they told you to run it to redline, and you got hurt doing it, then you could sue them. 2) If they told you to have the oil and filter changed at 50, 100, 500, and 1000 miles....it would make the service requirements on their bike look awfully bad when compared to the competition. 3) If customers broke the bike in the "motoman" way, and ignored the service intervals, they would end up fixing a LOT of bikes. The oil changes are critical! Skipping them is not an option. 4) Breaking in the bike easy won't seal the rings as well, but the company can always say, "1 quart every 500 miles is 'normal' usage" and they don't have to fix anything. Meanwhile, you're filling up with gas and oil at the same time. 5) Breaking a bike in the easy way can lead to carbon build up in the combustion chamber which most likely won't manifest itself until after the warranty expires. By all means, break in your bike how you feel is best. My experience, and the experience of several of my riding buddies tells me the "by the book" method is not the best way to do it. | ||
| Thunderbox |
Buell only gives you a warranty for 2 years which is already one year more than most but I would be willing to bet if you bought a new bike it would go 2 years without ever changing the oil. Do you know of anyone who has ever had a Buell blow an engine in the warranty period? I have been a mechanic all my life and the Motoman method makes a lot of sense to me so I follow that way. On the other hand many people have broken in a vehicle the OEM way and have had good results. The real proof is in the pudding. Do a Dyno on 2 engines with the same mileage both broke in differently and then we would know. I have a Drummer coming soon and I am hoping to dyno without the muffler and with it so I can give you a good baseline anyway. Catch you all next time around. | ||
| Roadrailer |
Breaking in a bike by the book is one of the WORST things you can do to it. I still don't know why manufacturers print them. It's been proven time and time again by folks like "Motoman" and others that breaking in a bike hard with frequent oil changes is the best way to do it. Don't take my word for it. Read the facts and see the pictures here: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/NewBike.html The above links weren't created by a graphic artist told to layout an owners manual that was approved by a legal team. They were written by people who have real world experience using the procedure on several bikes. Who do you trust? I broke in two new bikes by the book and they both burned oil and one was WAY down on power. I've broken in two more new bikes the Motoman way, and both have little to no oil usage, and run great. The proof is in the pudding. Don't lug your engine, especially when it's new. Keep it spinning! Yawn, here we go again. There is no proof on the Motoman site, just one guy's statements and pictures he says back up his claims. There's no scientific testing, no verification, nothing, just some dude trying to make a name for himself on the interweb. Oh yeah, and don;'t forget to sign up for the magazine at the bottom of the page.  Why WOULD you believe him, particularly over the company that designed and manufactured your motorcycle? And if you do believe, as motoman infers, that soft break in can lead to leaking rings, then how do you explain the tens of thousands of bikes (and cars, for that matter)broken in per the manual that don't leak, smoke, or foul plugs? My SV, for example, was broken in by the book, and runs perfectly. It has never burned a lick of oil. Sure the break in requirements in the manual are conservative. I'm confident the lawyers had a say it it. And I'm not saying the hard break in method is bad; I'm sure modern motorcycle engines can take it. But to say that a soft break in is the worst thing you can do to you engine is ignorant, and flat out wrong. | ||
| Roadrailer |
Everyone needs to understand that lugging the engine around at 3000rpm or below is MORE harmful than spinning it up to 4000 or 5000. Huh? The Uly's engine is NOT lugging at 3,000 rpm. | ||
| Roadrailer |
I've experienced the carbon build up shown on Motoman's site first hand when I broke in a bike "by the book". You do realize that just because there is carbon build up in an engine that doesn't mean the rings are leaking, right? There are lots of little explosions going on in there, and many factors can lead to carbon build up (plugs, bad gas, etc.). | ||
| Thunderbox |
There is no place for exhaust to go other than out the exhaust, past the rings or past the valve seals. If you have black fadeing to yellow marks on your piston the rings are allowing combustion past them and into the crankcase. There is no ifs or buts about it. We used to consider this a normal occurrance until someone (motoman) found out it was attributed to soft break in methods. He probably noticed it by chance, not because he figured it out in advance. He calls it thinking outside the box. Buell thinks outside the box too. Thats why the fuel is in the frame and the oil in the swing arm. Each person has to think on their own and make up their mind for whatever reason they chose. They have to live with the bike for a long time. I being a mechanic for 35+ years believe in his reasons. PS I have been breaking my bikes in for 35 years using the drive it hard method. I have never had an engine problem in all those years. | ||
| Lowflyer |
"My experience, and the experience of several of my riding buddies tells me the "by the book method" is not the best way to do it." That is fine, but you said, "Breaking in a bike by the book is one of the WORST things you can do to it." That is the point with which I disagree. Everything else is plausible, but not necessarily fact. I think it is extremely bad advice to tell someone that it is best to violate the terms of their warranty. If the motor frags for any reason inside the warranty term, the OEM can elect not to cover it. This could include manufacturing defects that would have been discovered regardless of break-in method. That is apparently a risk you are willing to take, but not everyone is as risk-averse. That said, mine burns very little, if any, oil between changes and wheelies on demand. I reckon I'm just plain lucky. | ||
| Sarodude |
Sometimes bad mileage is literally the owner / rider dragging the rear brake. I've seen this LOTS of times. Sometimes the rear brake seizes when this gets bad enough. Just a thought. -Saro | ||
| Roadrailer |
There is no place for exhaust to go other than out the exhaust, past the rings or past the valve seals. If you have black fadeing to yellow marks on your piston the rings are allowing combustion past them and into the crankcase. There is no ifs or buts about it. I don't think I agree with this statement. You're making the assumption that 100 percent of the product of the combustion process escapes the cylinder. Isn't it possible that particles will, over time, collect on the face of the piston, particularly if the engine is run at less than optimal levels? Or are you talking about the sides of the piston? (Message edited by roadrailer on March 22, 2006) |
