| Author | Message | ||
     Lowflyer |
Okay, I have the grips, and I have the heaters. The thing I wasn't counting on was the throttle grip coming pre-installed on the throttle sleeve. So, does anybody know what I need to do to install the Dual-Star heating element under the throttle grip? Do I need to remove the grip from the throttle sleeve, put the element on the sleeve and reinstall the grip? I'm not sure I can do that without damaging the new grip since it is glued on there pretty good.  | ||
| Chris_in_tn |
The grip heaters go directly on the handle bar, under the throttle sleeve. I cant remember the brand I have on my Guzzi but the one that goes on the throttle side runs "hotter" to compensate for the throttle sleeve and is marked for that side. | ||
| Lowflyer |
Excellent! Thanks. | ||
| Mrvvrroomm |
Huh? "grip heaters go directly on the handlebar, under the throttle sleeve"? It goes directly on the handlebar on the clutch side. What heating will you get from having an element UNDER the throttle sleeve? You will have to figure out a way to separate the Buell Traction grip from the included throttle sleeve. Your (probably Dual Star element) will go directly ON the throttle sleeve and then slip the grip over the grip heater element. | ||
| Fastfxrs |
I just installed a Kimpex grip heater kit on my Uly. The instructions called for installing the element between the right grip and throttle sleeve. The right grip runs hotter because of the position of the resistor, giving you a high/low/off on the switch. The option in the directions is for an equalized heat ( changing the position of the resistor) and giving a high/off postions on the switch only (that's the way I wired mine). Other grip heater manufacturers may call for placing the element between the bar and throttle sleeve, but kimpex dosen't. I would be concerned with the throttle sleeve constantly rubbing on the element. Just my $0.02. | ||
| Fastfxrs |
I used a flat blade screwdriver slid between right grip and the throttle sleeve, then sprayed contact cleaner in there while working the blade around under the grip. The grip slid off pretty easy. I dried everything as good as I could but it was cold in my garage and the element (self adhesive) wouldn't stick well. I ended up wrapping the element with a single layer of electrical tape and the grip slid back on and stayed put. | ||
| Sandmn |
I just installed Symtec grip heaters on my Uly, I purchased an extra set of grips ($16, aren't Buells great!) and just cut off the old ones. The heaters have to go between the plastic throttle and the grip to work well. Stick the heating elements on, spray the new grips liberally with your wife's hairspray, and slide on. The hard part of the job is drilling the 13/16 hole somewhere for the round rocker switch. I put it on the right side of the fairing, kind of opposite the ignition switch. These things work great, I can hardly keep my hands on the grips with the high setting. Total investment less than $50, lots cheaper than the HD heated grips on my wifes Deluxe, and they get a lot warmer. | ||
| Lowflyer |
Well, under the sleeve definitely does not work! The sleeve will not fit over the damn thing anyway. I am removing the new grip from the sleeve. I got the new grip off by turning it inside out. I used the Grip-Lock supplied with the new grips to get it back on. Problem solved. Now for the fun part.  Thanks for the hep!  (Message edited by lowflyer on February 25, 2006) | ||
| Lowflyer |
I used the crappy toggle switch that came with the heater kit, but it doesn't look too terrible. I would like to find one of those slick little round rocker switches though. I read on Advrider that NAPA has them, but I couldn't find it on their website and the one near me doesn't have one.   (Message edited by lowflyer on February 25, 2006) | ||
| Lorazepam |
looks good to me. How did you run the wires from the grips to the switch? where do you tap in to the power for the grips? It looks pretty clean, and heated grips rock. | ||
| Lorazepam |
How did you run the wires from the grips to the switch? I think it looks fine, and I would be happy to have them right now. | ||
| Lowflyer |
I tapped into the power lead behind the accessory plug. The wires are tied in with the existing wiring. I could have drilled through the switch housings, but I opted to just go around them. The wires come wrapped. You can see them in the top picture. They are in the black tubing.  I have to say that this was the hardest 1/2-inch hole I have ever drilled in my life. I pulled the gauges out and removed the casting so that I could easily drill it from the inside. The hole turned out very clean. It was hard because it's sooooo fargin permanent! (Message edited by lowflyer on February 25, 2006) | ||
| Lorazepam |
I added forward mount mirrors and driving lights to my last bike, and I know what you mean. it only hurts for a little while.  | ||
| Fastfxrs |
I ran my switch through the existing hole ( you can see it in lowflyer's top picture) that is below the ignition switch. I reamed it out a little with a round file and the switch fit well. Its a little more of a reach, but I didn't have to drill another hole. | ||
| Lorazepam |
I believe that hole is for adjusting the headlight assembly. | ||
| Stevenknapp |
Lowflyer, I just did the same thing last night, minus drilling the hole. I was going to post and give you my tips, but ya beat me to it!  I was shocked at how easy it was to get the traction grip off the throttle sleeve. And how hard it was to get the OEM grip off the clutch side. I glued the throttle side on, it was a PITA as the glue started to set quite early. I'm curious how you ran the wire from the throttle grip just where it comes out from under the grip itself. I didn't like the way it rubbed in there and made drag. So I made a small channel in the grip's flange and used thick CA/superglue to keep the wire in it. CAsporttouring sells the kit with the nice switch to start, FYI. | ||
| Lowflyer |
Yeah, the Symtecs are the same kit, but with the nicer switch. When I went to order, all I could remember was 'Dual-Star.' As soon as I can find one of those switches sold separately, I will swap it out. For now, this one works great and it's easy to reach in flight.  You are right about the throttle sleeve and the clutch side. I was initially worried about ruining a new set of grips, and was surprised when the throttle grip just peeled right off. I didn't do anything to address the rubbing at the throttle switch housing. I'll keep an eye on it and if it wears through the sleeving on the wires, I'll probably do the same thing or something similar to secure the wires to the grip. Are you going to drill the hole, mount a separate bracket, or use one of the headlight adjustment holes? | ||
| Stevenknapp |
You need: http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?&handler=data.listcategory&D=540-SRJ24A3HBBNN&te rms=540-SRJ24A3HBBNN&Ntt=*540SRJ24A3HBBNN*&N=0&crc=true It's $1.40 and says "I O II" instead of "hi/lo." I'm not sure what mouser's min order is. I put the switch almost exactly where you've got yours. I'll post some pictures in a short bit, it looks good. I'm happy. I did run the wire on the left under the switchgear and along with the factory wiring. | ||
| Lowflyer |
Thanks a bunch! What size hole do these switches require? I went ahead and ordered it. Since the dimensions say .908, I figured it couldn't be smaller than the hole I already have. | ||
| Stevenknapp |
13/16" It's the 2nd to last step on my unibit. I was going to add that these switches might not be the EXACT same as the one I've got, but they look really close. They didn't list a datasheet for the SPDT version, but they did for the SPST version. http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/rockers/pdf/RR_Series.pdf It has the mounting hole dimensions. I made the notch in the hole with a small round file. Also, when you wire it up, the terminal is on the other side from the switch. So if up is "HI" you want the high wire on the bottom terminal. (Message edited by stevenknapp on February 27, 2006) | ||
| Stevenknapp |
I must admit, I got the idea for where to mount this from chadhargis. Here's his picture. Mine is the same, but black.  | ||
| Lowflyer |
Yes, I was copying Chad too, but then there are not a lot of options when you start looking at the layout inside Uly's cranium. | ||
| Chadhargis |
I think I could have fit a small switch in the left control pod like I did on my FJR. I bought a mini switch from Radio Shack. The Ulysses has less room for the wires in the control pod, but you could make it work if you were so inclined. I just got lazy and went with the location above. | ||
| Lowflyer |
That would likely have required soldered connections. I am way too lazy for that.  These grip heaters are worth every penny and the 1/2-inch permanent hole I had to drill! | ||
| Stevenknapp |
Honestly, I saw few switches that would have fit in the control pod that wouldn't have looked crappy. I think this setup actually looks pretty much "factory". | ||
| Josh_ |
Anyone mount a HeatTroller in that location yet? | ||
| Lowflyer |
I thought of doing that, but figured I'd try the two-setting thing first. So far, I am more than satisfied with the two settings. I am glad I didn't buy the heat-troller. | ||
| Mrvvrroomm |
I had a Heat-Troller installed on my FJR and the wife's ZZR. It's a neat idea, but low/hi/off is all you'll need on the heated grips. The Heat-Troller just adds unnecessary wiring. The wife's ZZR has been replaced by an FZ6 with just simple low/hi/off included switch. I've removed the HT from my FJR too. | ||
| Lowflyer |
Here is the latest pic of my grip heater switch. I bought one of the nice round rocker switches, but did not want to drill the hole out to 13/16". I went with a $5 boot over the toggle instead.  | ||
| Nutt |
So... Is this still the way to go as far as switch placement is concerned? | ||
| Froggy |
Being that this thread is 2 years old, don't count on many seeing it! | ||
| Lowflyer |
I have no issues with this switch placement. It works very well. 18k miles later, everything has held up nicely too. | ||
| Nutt |
Thanks... I actually posted & looked for my post at the top of the list so I wouldn't get hammered for not using the "search" function. Little did I know, this forum uses some wacky software that I've not seen before & didn't do what I thought it would. However, it seems that Lowflyer has answered the question. | ||
| Froggy |
Just like Buell's engines, Badweb dates back to the stoneage without any major changes. I bug Blake every time i can about moving us to something a tad more modern, so you know, can do things like have signatures or figure out why the hell archived threads wont go back to top. |
