| Author | Message | ||
     Electraglider_1997 |
When I took the fly screen off the front of the fairing to install the Cee Bailey I fixed the rattling horn. All I did was take one of those little 1' diameter sticky backed carpet type floor protectors (CTFP). You know, the things you put under chair or table legs to keep from scratching the floor. Peeled off the sticky protector and then pulled on the horn enough to push the CTFP under it with the stick-em against the cross bracket and the carpet side against the horn tab. No more rattle. The horn still works the same and is just as loud. It just keeps the horn from flapping with the engine vibration. | ||
| Rkc00 |
That is the noise I think I am hearing the last week. Will be checking that out when I get home. Mike Long Island, NY 06 XB12X | ||
| Guybones |
I've seen posts that tell of flipping the horn around in it's bracket to solve the vibro-noize - the sticky protector seems like a good alternative. Does either method change the volume of the horn? Just asking as I'm ready to do something with the thing, annoying! Of course, with this being one of the few major issues for me, I feel pretty lucky. Thanks, | ||
| Buelldyno_guy |
Mine works fine backwards, but a bumper of some type sounds good also. ... Terry | ||
| Brat |
Be careful with the thread names fellas, my girlfriend thought I was on a porn site! | ||
| Rkc00 |
I put a dab of silicone behind mine when I got home from work. I was going to test it out today but there seems that it snowed here last night. Mike Long Island, NY 06 XB12X Black (of course) | ||
| India |
I knew I had something vibrating somewhere but I didn't know it was the horn until now. I've gone for the sticky pad solution which has worked. So Thanks Electraglider | ||
| Retired_cop |
E/glider...interesting fix to say the least. The horn on mine was rubbing the back of the flyscreen. When I removed 2 of the 3 mounting spacers, it was better but not completely fixed. I turned it around backward and it is fine. The C/B windscreen looks as if there is enough clearance to mount it correctly but since it is working fine now why bother. | ||
| Opto |
I turned mine around backwards but it didn't fix it, so I removed it altogether temporarily (well it's still off) to check that it was making the rattle, now the noise is very faint. We are talking about a sound something like a bunch of keys shaking together are we? I mentioned it to the service dept before they got their hands on it for their ONE and ONLY chance to ever get their hands dirty on my bike but nothing was done, neither was the timing checked but they DID RESET the TPS and made it run worse whereas before it went in it was running excellent. It also came home with an oil leak so it had to go back for the leak to be fixed and another TPS reset, and they never checked the timing as requested (again) either. This is my 2nd new Buell. I should know better. I was relieved when the warranty ran out on the Lightning as I wouldn't ever have to take it in to them again. The Uly will hopefully have a full ecm replacement (non-Buell) in a couple of months or so, no tps resets, no check engine lights. Just me and the bikes and tools and books. I often feel "belittled" when I go there, they must have to deal with a lot of idiots all day long, I just don't get it, well yes I do. As for the subject title "vibrating horn" I'm surprised the Orange Dragon (alias the "Hijacker") hasn't stopped by yet. | ||
| Snub13 |
Opto I was thinking the same thing about our friend from Ohio. The thread name seems to be right up his alley, no?  | ||
| Dragon_slayer |
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| Lowflyer |
He's got a vibrating horn up his alley?  | ||
| Charlieboy6649 |
I have an "R" but my horn vibrated the bracket in half. Had to cut a new bracket from some stock... | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Horn fix photo  Photo is fuzzy because it is a photo of a high resolution photo. Pointed my camera at the computer screen with the flash off. Notice the piece of sticky back carpet behind the horn. No vibration and no problem, so far. It is just one of those hard floor protectors that you normally would stick under chair or table legs to keep from scratching the hardwood floor. Round and about 1" diameter. Pull bottom of horn out and stick the protector on the metal cross brace. Let go of horn so that it rests back against the carpet. Reinstall windshield fairing. Done. | ||
| Opto |
We are talking about a sound something like a bunch of keys shaking together are we? Can someone answer that question without asking me what color are the keys? | ||
| Brotherbuell |
Opto, In my case, the sound that was fixed by reversing the horn was more of a knocking sound. Not at all metal to metal as a set of keys rattling. | ||
| Odie |
I have an S and my horn bracket just snapped in two yesterday. Made a new bracket like Charlie did out of 1/8" flat stock. No problems now and barely vibrates. I don't know how the horn setup is on a Uly but suspect it is similar. It did sound like a knocking more than keys though..... | ||
| Dragon_slayer |
Ahh Opto, your fellow Uly riders are leaving you to my mercy on trying to answer your question! HEHEHEHE! I will not ask about key colors as I know your preference but how many keys do you have on that ring? Too basic? We have to start somewhere! Ok lets see, your (bike) horn is not between your (engine) jugs like the Sporties (notice I had to go back and add some words to that sentence because of SOME posters on this site). So that's not it. Maybe you should check your primary chain? Hey it's a start, that's more than what anyone else has posted! BTW, pay no attention to the man behind the curtain! | ||
| Snub13 |
Opto, I have to agree with Brotherbuell and Odie about the sound. I'm not much for descriptive writing but it was definitely not a bunch of keys (no mater how many). The "turn around" maneuver worked for me. (There Slayer, I left myself open for ya!) | ||
| Opto |
Well I never had a problem with a horn between the jugs when I owned a Sporty...but the horn on the Lightning was known to blow (fuses), but on the Uly the horn sound is a knocking sound? like what you might hear through the walls when staying overnight at a place with thin walls? OK, that's not what I wanted to hear but my question is answered, so that's very good. I only have one blue key in the bike so it's not that. Excellent suggestion Dragon to check the primary chain, I've never had a loose one before but I assumed the dealer would have checked that, so that's first up. I've heard some pretty horrible temporary noises come out of Buell and Sportster engines that were in very good condition at the time and still are, so I'll just have to wait until something falls off or whatever (after checking the primary chain before the very next ride). I don't freak easily, but this high-pitched rattle (esp evident just off idle) appeared suddenly during a ride, and I pulled over after a few miles to check it out. Then it came and went to various degrees, and after I removed the horn it became faint for the one ride I took after that. I'll just keep riding and see what happens. Bindy and I went to a country music festival in a car so we could share the driving, both of us have been working long hours and it feels like we haven't had a ride in weeks, tis good to be home but will have to wait another 5 days to get out on the bike(s). Trying to get the Uly in for a dyno run before I change something, got a good local dyno operator who admits having the lowest bike dyno figures in Brisbane...that means he is very honest and the comparative figures will mean something useful to me. Anyway we had a real good time at the festival and didn't miss the bikes too much (honest - yeh sure) so I'm a bit more talkative than usual, thanks for the rattle info. | ||
| Buelldualsport |
Opto: We run an auto chassis dyno every week for the race team. A couple of things to check when they run your bike: Make certain that the operating temp is the same before each run. A hand held temp gun can be used to read the oil/transmission temps before and during each run, if the dyno operator does not use tape on temp sensors. Take a close look at the correction factor that the software uses to "correct" the raw horsepower numbers for current conditions. If the correction factor is over 1.01 and or less than .99, the local conditions are not favorable for consistant "good" data from the run. Make certain that the operator (rider) starts the dyno run at the same RPM point each time, and stops at the same point. Hope this gives you something to look at. Ride Safe | ||
| Dragon_slayer |
Opto, after your comment about the sound coming when just off idle is it possible you are hearing pinging such as engine detonation? May want to look at the type of gas you are using and the engine timing. Snub, I am giving you a free get out of jail pass on that one! | ||
| Opto |
Buelldualsport, Thanks for the info, the temp before the run is an interesting one, when I put the Lightning on the dyno I took it for a good long ride first, but it sat there a long time before getting on the dyno. It had approx 212 degrees F on the rear cyl head temp sensor which is not really fully warm, so the Megasquirt was still putting in around 4% extra fuel for cold enrichment at that stage. Have been told by another tuner to keep the temps the same for all runs so thanks for that and the other tips. Dragon, No it's not pinging, I know what that sounds like! Terrible, horrible sound to be avoided at all costs, often happens on real hot days with substandard fuel purchased in a small country town cause that's all they sell. Will let you know how I go, I'm not worried, just concerned till I find out what it is. | ||
| Buelldualsport |
Opto: Thanks and good luck. Ride Safe |
